The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[kayhill]

Thanks for the response!

Please forgive my amateur/ignorant question Re: the vents, but yes there's a stitch at the bottom of both vents. Am I supposed to cut that stitch?

Thanks!

Yeah mate, the vents should be open. Think of that stitching as packaging.

 

[kayhill]

Generally speaking you look very good in that suit.

I agree with lychyrychy that the coat seems to be a little bit short from the front, but that could simply be perspective.

My personal preference would be to hem the pants just a touch higher so there are no creases around your ankles.

Hello,
Just received my first Chan. Am looking for feedback. Please ignore tie and shirt choices (not intended to match)

 

[RDiaz]

It appears to me that the rise is too short in those trousers creating what you normally see in flat front trousers. Instead of gaping pockets, we have gaping pleats. The shorter rise has the fullness occurring too low thus the gaping. You would probably notice it going away if you really pull your pants but it doesn't look like they'd be comfortable to wear there. There really is no fix as that's what pleated trousers are designed specifically not to do. You can't increase the rise which is ultimately the main problem.

This is interesting. For my MTM summer trousers I ask for a lower rise (to wear them a bit lower on my waist, avoiding looking ridiculous without a jacket), yet they always look better if I hike them up to my natural waist, an inch above the navel. But then they obviously end up too short and are uncomfortable at the crotch. I'm wondering if it's a common thing with MTM (i.e., they change the rise and at the same time move the point where fullness for the hips is located, thus forcing you to wear your pants at the same height no matter what the rise is).

 

[TomR77]

Hello,
I am eyeing a (used) Old England jacket, but it seems like it will have to be taken in and my Atlanta-based tailor told me that jackets with a double vent cannot be taken in. Is this true? The size is 46 (German) grosse, which I suppose means "wide" or somesuch. The shoulders fit well but I hesistate because it has to be taken in, and is also perhaps a little short.
Unfortunately it's still in the store, so I can't post pictures.
Thanks if you can help.
Tom

 

[Realtor]

Deleted.

 

[Flyswatter]



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What is the problem with the fit? The sleeves?

You have the squarest shoulders I have ever seen. Fit looks decent, though. I'd say the sleeves are too short and/or cuff too tight.

 

[jaywhyy]

Hello,
I am eyeing a (used) Old England jacket, but it seems like it will have to be taken in and my Atlanta-based tailor told me that jackets with a double vent cannot be taken in. Is this true? The size is 46 (German) grosse, which I suppose means "wide" or somesuch. The shoulders fit well but I hesistate because it has to be taken in, and is also perhaps a little short.
Unfortunately it's still in the store, so I can't post pictures.
Thanks if you can help.
Tom

Never had any trouble taking in double vented jackets. I typically have to do this with all my jackets as I"m very skinny with shoulders a bit on the broad side.

 

[mrjester]

You have the squarest shoulders I have ever seen. Fit looks decent, though. I'd say the sleeves are too short and/or cuff too tight.

Excess fabric on the upper back as well.

And yeah. Damn. Dem shoulders.

 

[Cubits]

Back the cuffs off a notch, there seems to be enough material to let them drop a little. It's good on the chest and hips, but needs to come in at the waist.

 

[OTCtailor]

This is interesting. For my MTM summer trousers I ask for a lower rise (to wear them a bit lower on my waist, avoiding looking ridiculous without a jacket), yet they always look better if I hike them up to my natural waist, an inch above the navel. But then they obviously end up too short and are uncomfortable at the crotch. I'm wondering if it's a common thing with MTM (i.e., they change the rise and at the same time move the point where fullness for the hips is located, thus forcing you to wear your pants at the same height no matter what the rise is).

Good MTM will allow the seller to state the rise either in one fixed measure based on height i.e. about 9 to 12 inches is the usual range from shortest person to tallest. My maker allows me to state the rise from the crotch point measuring to the top of the fly and to the top of the back of the waistband. There are a multitude of ways that I know I can change that in order to affect a particular result.
Otherwise, yes, the higher the rise, the greater the flexibility to manage the fullness distribution. It's simply much easier to transition through what could be 8+ inches in difference from the waist to the hips when there is more room to do that. Because the intended function of pleats is to throw fullness over a forward stomach and shapely thighs/seat, it only makes sense that you'd see a higher rise on them so that they create a kindof curtaining effect when draped over the leg. It is possible to make a slim fit pleated trouser, but the wearer really still should be slim himself IMHO.

 

[OTCtailor]

Hello,
I am eyeing a (used) Old England jacket, but it seems like it will have to be taken in and my Atlanta-based tailor told me that jackets with a double vent cannot be taken in. Is this true? The size is 46 (German) grosse, which I suppose means "wide" or somesuch. The shoulders fit well but I hesistate because it has to be taken in, and is also perhaps a little short.
Unfortunately it's still in the store, so I can't post pictures.
Thanks if you can help.
Tom

Jackets with side vents can be taken in a variety of ways, actually. If you need to maintain the width of the flap because it's flattering to your hips, then there is less flexibility because the suppression has to occur at the forepart of the sideseam. Some people with broad shoulders and narrow waist also have a prominent seat. They need a lot of shaping around the waist area in order to define it but the excess shaping can cause tightness at the lower back. My way of managing this is to create more shape towards the front of the garment while allowing the back to drape more. sometimes it's recutting pockets. Somestimes it's very carefully adjusting the CB seam and side seams to help in the shaping and then adding a hidden dart underneath the sleeve that falls right behind the the existing underarm dart. It puts shape right at the side of the body instead of at the side/rear where the "side seams" are located. Doing this achieves shape that has little to no effect on the back of the jacket.
If you do not have prominent seat, but just a significant drop from shoulders to waist, then it could be a combination of methods used. The key is to try the jacket on and see where those vents fall at on your body. If the back flap is so wide that it really could wrap around your body halfway then you have plenty of room to move it so that it falls a little more backward. This would be ideal because it affords the most flexibility to take the jacket in. In reality, you really just need a competent tailor who sees the problem in this manner and doesn't a)dismiss it because it "can't be done" or b) just take it in without care to how it really should lay on your body.

 

[smoothmoose]

REPOST from Indochino thread. Wouldn't mind some feedback on from the tailors. I think the only thing I would change is light less waist suppression given the linen.

I have love-hate relationship with Indochino. Been a customer of their's since 2009. I think most people hate the price increase. I also hate how inflexible they are nowadays, even when you ask for certain changes related to fit. Here's is my latest example of my love-hate relationship with them, luckily for this piece it is mostly love. Please ignore, the shirt I didn't bother changing to more neutral colour to offset the plaid.

LOVE:
- Great "out-there" derby plaid pattern
- The hand of the linen
- Excellent work with half-lining
- The patch pockets
- Fit is good IMO, but's been dialed in now
- The price: got this for $199 when they relaunched the Essential collection (I lucked out...see below)

HATE:
- How it went out of stock after 3 days (maybe I got lucky and this was a test run to see if there was demand???)
- The button stance is a bit low (The jacket length is 27.75", so I'm short)
- How they put a regular chest pocket and not another patch pocket...WHY???

But overall, very happy with this buy which appears that I lucked out on since it's out of stock already.

 

[Cubits]

First online Mtm jacket I've seen with the correct button placement.

 

[aglose]

^digging the jacket.
On another note, my dress shirts keep coming untouched, is that because I wear an undershirt or is it a problem with the length of the actual dress shirt?

 

[OTCtailor]

^digging the jacket.
On another note, my dress shirts keep coming untouched, is that because I wear an undershirt or is it a problem with the length of the actual dress shirt?

problems with the length, indeed. Shirts that stay tucked are about as long as to the bottom of your crotch when untucked.