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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Odradek

    Odradek Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    631
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2011
    Location:
    Currently rural England
    A few months ago I bought my first double-breasted blazer, in my usual jacket size of 40S.
    Seems a little loose on me though.

    Apologies in advance for the terminally rumpled linen trousers. Been in the wardrobe since last summer and just pulled them out for the photos.
    Took these photos yesterday and it doesn't look as bad as I imagined, although I know it would benefit from some alteration.
    The sleeves need to be shortened of course, but besides that, what else is needed?

    Should it be taken in slightly at the waist perhaps?

    Or, should I sell it and try and find a 38S?

    Either way, I'd be replacing those buttons with something far less shiny.

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    Last edited: May 8, 2014
  2. Odradek

    Odradek Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    631
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2011
    Location:
    Currently rural England
    While I was doing this, I took the opportunity to try on two suits I hadn't worn in a long time.

    First is one I bought about 3 years ago in a sale, when I knew absolutely nothing about suits. The label is Lambretta, which is your first clue that I'd no idea what I was doing.
    Anyway, three piece houndstooth and 98% wool. Looking at it now the lapels seem so skinny, but I didn't know any of that back then. Only wore it once, and it's been in the wardrobe ever since. Trousers are really too low rise to work well with the waistcoat.
    It's had no alterations but I would need to get the sleeves shortened.

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    Second up is a vintage three piece I bought from Bookster's now defunct ebay store.
    Though it was my size, 40S, I had to spend more than I originally paid getting it altered.
    Had trousers taken in at waist, shortened, (but I think still too long), jackets sleeves shortened and waistcoat taken in a little at the waist.
    The tailor told me he didn't like the suit, (and he loves one or two others I've had altered there).

    The cut of the jacket quarters is very odd, and the jacket looks so boxy, but I suppose that was the style back in the 60's or 70's or whenever.
    Is there any way to alter that?
    Maybe by moving the jacket buttons an inch away from the hem, to give more closure?

    Any hints welcome.

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    Last edited: May 8, 2014
  3. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Yes but you do need the actual fabric.
     
  4. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    The shoulders are falling because they're maybe a little too wide but more because there's not enough slope in them. Padding them out or having them recut to fix that esp on the right low.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    It's a must that you be measured correctly for a custom suit. If you were measured by their sales people and it still came out that way, I say abandon ship. I'll echo a previous response from despos that your suit cannot be altered. It must be remade with correct measures.
     
  6. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    The shirt is too small by normal standards of fit. Sure, it looks "modern" but in reality it's too tight especially in the chest. A good meal will split the plackets open when you sit.
    As far as the jacket goes, your posture and shoulder slope & pitch will always be your enemy buying off the rack. Shoulder divots and excess fabric at the back of the garment are hard fixes. Being athletic with a prominent and narrow midsection will almost always equal precise tailoring or a custom experience.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    The suit doesn't fit to your posture. The front balance is too short causing puffed lapels and scissored fronts. The back balance is conversely too long. For the price of BL, consider quality MTM which can at least adjust to your more erect posture and backward pitching shoulders.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    The DB blazer looks too wide and square in the shoulders. Taking it in the at the waist will only draw more attention to that.
    The rest of the suits just looks classic and dated to some but not too bad. Would try to go for the 38S. Watch the shoulder fit.
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Try a little waist suppression at the side seams and either the left sleeve is caught on something for the picture or way too short. May need to lower the collar but it could be the lighting because from the side it looks ok.
     
  10. Odradek

    Odradek Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2011
    Location:
    Currently rural England
    

    Thanks for that.
    I posted the same pics over at AAAC and someone said perhaps the blazer looked slightly off as it was a bit wrinkled.
    I've dropped the blazer off at the dry cleaners so will try it on again when it's pressed, and see if therez's any difference.
    Might start looking at eBay for a similar one in 38S.
     
  11. bklyndoc12

    bklyndoc12 Active Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 14, 2013
    thank you for the advice!
     
  12. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2013
    Location:
    Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NY
    

    As OTC said, you need the cloth. You could cheat it. Take the cloth from the trouser hem and add a false hem. Back pocket is usually 5 3/4", you need two pieces of cloth per pocket, on an 18" hem you have enough for one pocket.
     
  13. BlackBrumel

    BlackBrumel Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    223
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2010
    Location:
    Princedom of Kukamonga
    Gentlemen,
    My fits have presented a recurrent issue: this gap between the jacket's hem and the pant's hips, as you can see.
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    Should I adjust the jacket's hem or wide the pant's hips? Both?
    Thank you.
     
  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Jacket skirt needs to be reduced most likely. If the trouser hip isn't excessively loose, it will not cause the skirt flare. If the jackets are single/center vented, this is pretty easy to do. Double vented is harder and more $
     
  15. BlackBrumel

    BlackBrumel Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 28, 2010
    Location:
    Princedom of Kukamonga
    

    Thanks, OTC.
    It can be the jacket skirt, since the trousers are not loose
     
  16. hookem12387

    hookem12387 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,113
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2010
    Location:
    Houston
    Help on both the shirt and pants, if anyone is willing. The shirt is a luxire copy of a Hamilton bespoke shirt. Something may have gotten lost in translation, because I don't think my Hamilton is quite this messy in the back. Nonetheless, it would be easier to correct luxire via email for a subsequent shirt than to resubmit my Hamilton.

    The pants are by a local bespoke-offshoring tailor, Q Tailors, here in Houston. They're ok, probably my best fitting pair of pants, and this is a first commission, but I still feel like I could iron out a few things via alteration before trying at a second pair.

    I'm totally open to any suggestions. I'd love to clean up around the shoulders on the shirt (front and back) and get the pants to hang straight down from the seat.

    Thanks a ton

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    Last edited: May 12, 2014
  17. naviC

    naviC Active Member

    Messages:
    37
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    Jul 4, 2013
    Would like to seek some help from the experts here, need some help on my first suit. so many lines everywhere....

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  18. Suit of Nettles

    Suit of Nettles Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    161
    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2013
    Location:
    The Great Encampment of the Philistines
    I'm by no means expert, but the sleeves are a bit long (or your shirt-sleeves are too short), the pant-legs appear to be as well (lighting makes it hard to tell, but the collapse at the knee suggests it), and it's definitely tight across the waist. Some of the issues through the back and in the vents may 'settle down' once it's been let out a little.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2014
  19. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Sorry for making you look at my crotch and bottom, but does anyone have any advice for cleaning up the seat and the crotch section? I'd also like to increase the rise for my next order, without creating a saggy seat, so any advice on that is also greatly appreciated! Thank you!

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  20. AL FINK

    AL FINK Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2014
    First of all, sorry for the bad pictures. I had my pants made from a local tailor. Please critique my pants fit. Everything seems alright but when I sit, it felt really tight and unbearable. The tailor got me a "tailored" and a "slim" look but it felt just too snug. Do I need to change anything to make it feel better? I already had them open the seam on the thigh and it's the most they can do.

    As of now, my planning to change the cut for my next pairs. I'm thinking towards a more classic fit as I am used to comfort. Thanks!!

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