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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I have what I think is a simple, but quick, question, but I've been wrong before.

    I have a few jackets that were quite well fitting and felt great too till I started lifting weights again. Now, they feel fine and the lapels don't bow when I button the front button, however, whenever I reach forward, especially with both arms together, the jacket 'catches' me and the back get super tight. I suspect it's from my Lats (back muscle) flaring when I do this.

    Is there any way to alter a jacket to fix this or would it require changes to the shoulder, which are usually not worth it.

    Thank you for your time.
     
  2. pwhinson

    pwhinson Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure this is the correct thread for this question (it has no specific relation to fit but it does have to do with tailoring). I recently received via Sierra Trading Post a heavily discounted Isaia jacket. On the underside of the upper lapel notch, the small bit of fabric which is generally pressed under and sewn/tacked down underneath the lapel is missing from this jacket. Its the first Isaia jacket I've seen without this detail. Also the button's "kind of" look machine sewn to me. Its got all the other accoutrement of every other Isaia jacket I have and the proper tags inside the breast pocket, but I'm particularly curious about the little bit of fabric that's generally tucked under that lapel notch that seems to be missing. Any clues? Are there "budget" Isaia lines?

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  3. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    No "budget" Isaia that I know of, but the collar of the jacket you have is simply a cheaper made collar.
     
  4. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Starting with the jacket, the balance is ok but looks like the collar could be lowered a bit to relieve some of the rolls. The armholes are high but looks like there's just no drape back there behind your blades. A tailor may be able to let out under the armhole in the side body to push some of the drape back over the blades. The sleeves look off in pitch. They need to be rotated forward. The collapse of cloth over your front shoulders is either because your shoulders are forward pitching or the shoulders are too wide for yours and they're falling off. Probably a pitch issue. Do you feel your shoulders contacting the front of the coat like a little pressure there? Also, the right side is low and needs to be balanced. Either recut or adding a pad. Also, the shoulders look ok. The "poof" you're talking about may be a roped shoulder doing its thing.
    Trouser balance is off a little. The seat could probably use reshaping along with dropping the back rise some. Tapering the legs will get them more slim. Obviously, yes, they're too long.
     
  5. lefty14

    lefty14 Member

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    Thanks very much for all that OTC, it's extremely helpful.

    What do you mean by fixing the pitch in the sleeves? They need to be rotated so they hang more straight down? (sorry, I'm not down with the terminology :)

    My shoulders do pitch forward and when I pull them back, the collapse of cloth at the front of the shoulders isn't as bad. So I think your analysis on that is correct. How would that issue be fixed?

    Black Lapel has a policy that if issues of fit can't be fixed by a tailor for under $75, they'll remake the jacket. Based on your comments, I'm guessing fixing these issues would end up costing more than that? (Armholes, sleeve pitch, sleeve length, collar).
     
  6. Smitty5400

    Smitty5400 Member

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    Thank you for your input, OTCtailor. I was willing to try this picture/email method out because the price is right for MTM and the reviews of kent wang on styleforum are generally very positive. It does seem, however, like it would be a good idea to take the trial suit to a tailor and use his alteration suggestions (together with yours) before submitting the final adjustments to the trial suit.

    From a tailor's perspective, would this type of arrangement be considered a waste of time where I would visit for the sole purpose of getting his adjustment guidance but not actually use him to do the work? Is there a common pricing model for this?
     
  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Tough to say. I'd say it's not exactly classy to do that. To the tailor, it'd be like saying, "I trust your valuable advice, but not enough to make the purchase through you."
    Not to mention, the tailor may have no idea who/what/how the MTM house that's producing the garment is doing what they're doing.

    If you came to me, I'd probably convince you to bail on the competition and do my best to match the price/fabric etc so that it makes sense.
    Maybe go to the tailor with that idea?
     
  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Pitch is an issue of rotation relating to how forward or backward you naturally hold your arms. Also as to do often with the pitch of the shoulders.
    Fixing a jacket for forward shoulders is a pretty extreme alteration and may not even be possible with that jacket. I'd estimate the cost on rotating sleeves and adjusting for forward shoulders to be well in excess of $75.
    So the question is, will BL actually adjust the remade jacket for those fit issues? Some online MTM will only go so far with pattern adjustments.
     
  9. MacGuffen

    MacGuffen Senior member

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    Location:
    Norway
    I'm taking this Suitsupply York Plain Blue to my tailor, and was hoping for some advice on what to alter. I know the pictures are horrible, so I'm not expecting the world, but some comments on the following would be nice:

    Sleeve length
    Collar gap (?)
    Waist suppression

    The arms are wrinkled in the pictures, but not when standing normally, so I don't think I have to rotate the sleeve heads.
    Pants are too tight in the waist and seat, and have to be let out as well.


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    Last edited: Apr 24, 2014
  10. lefty14

    lefty14 Member

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    Ok, that's helpful.

    Basically, Black Lapel's policy is that if you take the suit to the tailor and the issues can't be fixed for $75, they will remake it for you. http://www.blacklapel.com/returns/#alterations

    All the online reviews and comments on forums like this one indicate that BL's service is good, and my experience with them has been great so far. So even though online MTM will be hit or miss on the initial fit, BL seems to have a reputation for making the effort to get things right. So I think I'm going to see if I can get the suit remade with these alterations and see what they say.
     
  11. logan858

    logan858 Active Member

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    i have a new question for the tailors here on the balance on pants.

    a few pages back one of the members posted some pics, one with the pants having balance issues in the back with extra fabric under the seat:
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    my question is, how exactly would this be fixed through alterations? I'm *assuming* the waistband would be taken off and then re-sewn higher up, gradually, from back to front, like so:
    [​IMG]


    so would this be an effective alteration in theory to fix this problem? and if that's how to fix that problem, would the hem at the bottom of the pant need to be re-done diagonally to compensate?
     
  12. beauregard

    beauregard Member

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    Louisville, KY
    OTC, what is the giveaway that rolls can be resolved by lowering the collar as opposed to another issue? Would prominent blades cause rolls as well?
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2014
  13. Why Am I

    Why Am I Active Member

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    Oct 2, 2013
    Hello gents. I'm new to trying to dress well, and after taking the time to learn a bit about the basics and fit, I've finally gotten my first suit. I opted for a lower end MTM worsted navy. I would be very grateful for any comments and advice on fit that you may have. If it helps, I'm a mid-20's grad student living in NYC.

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  14. SuitsHarvey

    SuitsHarvey Member

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    I got a new SuitSupply suit in the Napoli Fit in Navy Blue with a bit wider pinstripes. They suggested me to try a 46. Does it fit in general? Is it long enough at the back? Are the sleeves too short etc.? I'd be thankful for any feedback and recommendations for alterations. In my opinion it's fitting not bad and the photos are okay, too. But I don't have much knowledge about the fit.


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  15. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Sleeves are definitely too short. Pants look like the seat/thigh width might be off a little? Not sure why they're bunching on the hamstrings.
     
  16. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    Not a tailor, but that's pretty off in a lot of ways...there's a ton of elements about the jacket that combine in a way which is entirely at odds with your body shape. The narrow lapels, short jacket, high buttoning point, and very open collar just look horrible together, it's way out. Also looks like there's a lot wrong with the pants, but I can't tell you what precisely. Sorry to be negative :/
     
  17. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    More like the band is removed and reattached lowered in the back. The lower it needs to go, the more it has to be removed up front. The lowering has to be gradual from front to back.
    The other component is the reshaping of the seat. Hard to say what yours needs with your jacket on but it could be just a matter of hollowing the seat curve a bit and letting out the rear fork. This just allows the fabric to be pulled up by the waistband but also be kindof lifted off and away from your seat. In some cases, the seat must be let out in order to straighten the seat angle for a very flat seat. Then the back part of the hip seam must be taken in to compensate for what was let out.
    No hem adjustment is required.
     
  18. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Rolls under the collar can technically be caused by a wide variety of issues. Sometimes it's tightness over the blades. Sometimes it's excessive incline, forward shoulders, short collar.
    Based on the pics, it looks like there's just too much incline which lowering the collar some would help. If it's tightness over the blades, lowering the collar will really not help. In that case, more fullness needs to be thrown over the blades. That's the tailor's skill in deciding what is happening.
     
  19. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The side view tells most of the story here. The front balance is too short. This is causing the lapels to fan away from your chest and causing the quarters to invert. Your posture is likely more erect than the jacket is cut for. It's not a satisfactory result for MTM no matter the cost.
     
  20. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    About the low end navy MTM suit....The measurements mightof been accurate, but the postural observations were not. Posture more erect. Shoulders a little more sloped and backward pitched. A slightly lowered button stance and longer length jacket will do good things for you. If you're trying to be fashionable, lengthen by .5 to 1". A more classic length would be 3/4 to 1.5" longer. Sway back and forward hips. Maybe semi prominent seat.
    Go back to the maker and see what their remake policy looks like because you can't lengthen the front balance, lengthen the jacket, or move the button stance.
     

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