The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Chr0n]

Hello everyone,

I have recently got myself a new three-pieve suit form delavegatailors.
They send you a test suit first to confirm your measurements.
So, when wearing the test-suit i felt that the waistcoat was too low (on the waist) and also that the V on top is too high.

However, now that I have received the final suit, I am not so sure anymore.
I rather think it's come out too low.

What do you think about it? Am I just getting paranoid?
Should I let it as it is or get a new waistcoat?
Also could the current one be tailored so that the top V is higher if I can get hold of extra fabric?

If so, how much higher should it be? Ie. how much fabric should show above the jacket?

Thanks! =)

PS: I realize that the jacket seems not too fit too well on the photos, this is due to me photographing myself with a 10 second timer.

 

[sugarbutch]

It's off everywhere. Collar off your neck, too-short jacket, too-high buttoning point, closed quarters, sleeves too long.

 

[Chr0n]



It's off everywhere. Collar off your neck, too-short jacket, too-high buttoning point, closed quarters, sleeves too long.

It's just the photos, it's right on all the points you mentioned, except the too short jacket which i intended like this since I am fairly small, when put on properly without haste to run in front of a camera lens that's about to go off :embar

my question mainly concerns the waistcoat.

 

[Chr0n]

double post can't remove myself?

 

[a tailor]



It's just the photos, it's right on all the points you mentioned, except the too short jacket which i intended like this since I am fairly small, when put on properly without haste to run in front of a camera lens that's about to go off :embar
my question mainly concerns the waistcoat.

when you ordered the suit exactly what did you tell them about the vest?

 

[diophan]

What you can do is have the collar raised in the back but a proper fix includes adjusting the shoulder. Not an option on RTW. Does this happen regardless of the style of shirt collar you wear?
Showing 1" isn't bad, 1/2 to 1" is probably normal. Issue may be a posture or slope of your shoulder issue.

My neck comes forward kind of a lot from where it meets my back I don't know if that could be the cause. Here are some pictures if you can diagnose what causes it. The amount of exposed collar is about the same (1" or a bit more) regardless of the type of collar. I know that 1" is okay by SF but when I'm "out in the wild" it makes me self-conscious to expose that much collar. If I were to order a MTM jacket is there anything specific I should tell them or will the measurements take care of this problem?





Thanks Despos.

 

[Chr0n]

I ordered a standard five button vest.
However when I received the test suit, it was too long.
So I told them shorten it by 10 cm (it now just covers the waist on the front and back).

I also read in Allan Flussers book that the vest should show 1 button above the suit. So I thought it was also too high and told them to lenghten the V by 5 cm.

They then told me that they couldnnt fit 5 buttons on it anymore and would make it with 3. (this should have ringed a bell).

So now I think it is too low. But I am not sure.


How much of the vest should actually be visible above the suit (ie between suit and neck) for a 2 button suit?

 

[Mox C]

I picked up this great Harris Tweed the other day, and when I first tried it on, I thought it was too small. It felt snug in the shoulders, and I let myself be influenced by the size tag the store had attached, which I know I should just ignore. It turns out that the sleeves and length look good for me. The way the hip area flares out, I thought a too tight mid-section was causing the issue, but now that I've spent more time wearing it with a proper shirt, I'm not so sure. It doesn't feel bad at all. My main concern is the shoulder area. Being new to this, I'm not actually sure what kind of leeway you have in shoulder fit.

I forgot to take a picture of the back. If that's needed, I'll get one later. My shoulders aren't always slanted, but I have muscle stiffness and spasticity issues, so it can be hard to relax everything and tell when I'm standing straight. Does this fall into the "acceptable" fit range? If the upper half is good, I'll probably ask to have the hips fall a little straighter, if that's possible. I like this jacket too much to not try and make it work.

(The first two pictures don't capture the terrific subtle green very well.)

Thanks for any feedback.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



Does this fall into the "acceptable" fit range?

Well, the style and cut are maybe a bit dated, but I would say the fit is certainly acceptable. Though it's hard to see the hip flare you mention since your arms are in the way.

 

[a tailor]



I ordered a standard five button vest.
However when I received the test suit, it was too long.
So I told them shorten it by 10 cm (it now just covers the waist on the front and back).
I also read in Allan Flussers book that the vest should show 1 button above the suit. So I thought it was also too high and told them to lenghten the V by 5 cm.
They then told me that they couldnnt fit 5 buttons on it anymore and would make it with 3. (this should have ringed a bell).
So now I think it is too low. But I am not sure.
How much of the vest should actually be visible above the suit (ie between suit and neck) for a 2 button suit?

some folks prefer the vest to be covered, but when showing the vest one button is the most.
the length at the bottom, center back and sides should be at least 5 cm below the bottom of the belt.
the front points at least 10 cm below the bottom of the belt.

 

[Mox C]



Well, the style and cut are maybe a bit dated, but I would say the fit is certainly acceptable. Though it's hard to see the hip flare you mention since your arms are in the way.

Thank you, Sanguis. I think it would have been more obvious if I had done a photo from the back. You can see a bit of it in the side photo, though some of the billowing is probably from my slanted shoulders. As long as the shoulders are ok, I'll take it down to a tailor and see what they say about the hips. I don't have anyone I use regularly yet. It's one thing to accept what they might say can be done, and another what should be done. I wanted to make sure I wasn't pushing out the shoulders too much before even considering having work done.

 

[semisuit]

Hello, styleforum. I am new, and I am submitting YASQ (Yet Another Suit Question).

I know the sleeves need to be shorted one to two inches. I look forward to hearing what you think about the fit of the rest of the suit. Thanks in advance.

 

[OffTheCuffLV]

You know...never mind. I don't need anyone to answer my questions. I'll figure out or myself. I'm a self taught tailor...with a lot to learn. But I'll get it right. Give your advice to the amateurs who need ppl like me. Like us. Could care less if u read or post on sf ever again. Why did I even bother?

 

[I am DIL]

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHH.

Just be patient -- these dudes have a lot of people to address. Just PM them or something if you're that desperate.

 

[Despos]



You know...never mind. I don't need anyone to answer my questions. I'll figure out or myself. I'm a self taught tailor...with a lot to learn. But I'll get it right. Give your advice to the amateurs who need ppl like me. Like us. Could care less if u read or post on sf ever again. Why did I even bother?

Saw your post and didn't know how to respond. The term you used "shoulder cap" doesn't exist. The issues you have aren't clear or specific and the descriptions of the work you have done is wrong. Sewing thru all the layers and creating a stiffer sleeve is opposite of what you need for forward pitched shoulders.

You posted a picture of you in a t shirt with your arms around two women to show you have sloping shoulders but your arms aren't hanging straight so it doesn't help much. The picture of the camel jacket doesn't show a thing except that the left sleeve looks to be at least an inch too long.

For your sloping shoulders start by removing the sleeves from the jacket. Slope the shoulders more. More or less from the front or back part depends on your posture and shoulder blades. When you remake the shoulders you want extra fullness on the back part to give more shape and bring the shoulder point to the front. Don't be afraid to use padding and I would use padding to adjust for your low shoulder to avoid the extreme sloping of the shoulder line.
Next, deepen and resize the armhole and then re cut the sleeve to match the new shape of the armhole. Stretch the canvass over your shoulder point and put more fullness on the sleeve in that area. You may have to straighten the front shoulder which would give you more back but I'm not sure. I imagine you have a lot of curve in your arm so you have to be careful how you hang the sleeves. This is basic stuff but can't be more specific do to lack of information or pictures.

What you are attempting is very advanced and technical type of work, Good luck to you.