The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    This is why we can't have nice things.
     


  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if you were to order an m2m on line, send them the picture on the left.
    tell them what you told us. that one inch is too much and that you
    want only a half inch to show. pictures do help.
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [/SPOILER]

    Thanks Despos.
    [/quote]

    Full body, front, back and side would help diagnose if there is more to adjust for this. These pictures show the issue but don't reveal what may be the cause.
     


  4. Bagel

    Bagel New Member

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    Hello Tailors!

    I had these suits made a year ago and two years ago respectively. They're going to be getting a lot of use in the near future, so I was wondering if I need to get them altered at all. I think the button point is a little high on both of them, but I guess that isn't really fixable. Are the sleeves too long on the navy one? Are they generally acceptable in terms of fit?

    Thanks for your help.


    Navy
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    Navy Pinstripe
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    I think excess break and wrinkles on the legs are because the pants are sagging on my hips.I plan to get them taken in.

    [​IMG]
     


  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    your right it is a great harris.
    are you wearing this coat unevenly on the shoulders?
    if not, then you have a right low shoulder problem.
    that shoulder is throwing everything off. the right side dropped down
    and kicked left side out. see how the center of the front is over on
    the left side. thats what is sticking out in front and back, in the side view.
     


  6. WhyAlwaysMe

    WhyAlwaysMe Well-Known Member

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    These 2 RTW jackets are new, haven't been to the tailor yet. Any tips?
    I know the grey one is a bit short, but it's very casual, so it doesn't bother me at all.


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  7. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hello WAM

    sorry but posing is for gq. we cant see anything. although they do look rather nice.
    for fit critque we need a square front, square back, and square sides.
    please help us help you.
    oh yes please button the shirt collar.
    thank you
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2012


  8. WhyAlwaysMe

    WhyAlwaysMe Well-Known Member

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    Ok, will take better pictures next time I wear them.
    Thanks for the reply.
     


  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, shorten the sleeves a bit on the solid navy, the stripe jacket sleeves are better.
    The fronts look off somehow but I’m not sure why so I’ll try a few things that are suspect. Were the suits boxy looking when finished and then altered to shape the waist?
    The solid navy has some bowing over the chest, left side more. Looks like the button needs moving and is contributing to the pulling at the waist on the fronts. Did you notice you have one flap in and one flap out? Both jackets look slightly short from the front view.
    The front balance looks a bit short on both jackets but may be that you stood a bit unnatural for the pictures. If the fronts were longer, the jacket length would be fine. You may regret how narrow the lapels are on the navy, the stripe is slightly better.

    The stripe jacket looks more snug but you also have a vest on. The front edges on the solid are very straight but they actually overlap on the stripe jacket. Some tension over your shoulder blades that causes a little extra cloth under the collar on the stripe jacket.

    The trousers on both suits need the back part lifted to change the balance, that will clean up the wrinkles.
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    These 2 RTW jackets are new, haven't been to the tailor yet. Any tips?
    I know the grey one is a bit short, but it's very casual, so it doesn't bother me at all.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [/
    quote]

    Looks like you have a full chest and this causes the lapels to bow out. Both jackets look too small in the chest. Wish the button position was a little lower on both. Both jackets look like they don't have enough overlap are are pulling to meet when you button the jacket and some of this is from a low shoulder. Don't care seeing the belt and top of the trouser under the bottom button.Sleeve length needs adjusting on both.
    I know this is about fit but the blue jacket looks out of place with everything you are wearing. Like an orphaned suit jacket. The shirt collar style, shoes, jeans all are fine on their own but are not cohesive as a look, major disconnect.

    Take a better set of pictures as suggested by atailor.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2012


  11. semisuit

    semisuit New Member

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    Hello tailors. I am just bumping my post.

     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sleeves only need to be shortened 1/4" on right and 1/2" on the left. You have an extreme low right shoulder and if you use a pad to fill in the right side the right sleeve length might be ok.

    Are you able to try on more suits? Would suggest a suit with different proportions and silhouette. Shoulders, blades are too wide, jacket looks big. Would like to see the jacket 1/2" shorter. Biggest issues are the wide shoulders and low right shoulder.
     


  13. diophan

    diophan Member

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    First sorry the shirt is really wrinkled... I had to take these quickly on the way out to the airport.


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    I went to the tailor yesterday and asked about just raising the back of the collar as you suggested. He said there wasn't room to adjust it. I looked on the back of the collar and the "felt" part of the underside was just a sliver from being noticable so I imagine thas is why he said it wasn't adjustable. He also told me that a large part of the problem is that my neck is so small (14 1/2 -- yes I know that's small, the jacket is 36R). I think this is noticable from how far away the lapels sit from my neck on the front picture but I'll have to see what the experts say :)

    So at this point I'm wondering how the issue would potentially be fixed on this jacket, and if I were to start over on a MTM jacket since my dimensions are incredibly hard to get a close fit for RTW what I should tell the tailor (I'm thinking of going thick and thieves because they seem to have good cuts for thin guys and I don't need to worry about working in a conservative office) so as to avoid these problems with a new jacket.

    Thanks for the help despos and a tailor!
     


  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Your neck isn't so small for your chest size. The collar can be raised on this jacket and should be shortened. You need the neck yoke made smaller, crook the front shoulder to bring the collar closer on your neck and the collar shortened and raised.
    These pictures aren't very good but my guess is you need a longer back, smaller neck yoke and a jacket cut with a long neck adjustment if you go MTM.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2012


  15. Mox C

    Mox C Senior member

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    Thanks for the reply. This jacket seems to be more susceptible to this effect than other jackets I have. Moving my shoulders while wearing the other jackets will cause this bowing, but not as drastically or easily as it does with this one. They only have a single dart on each side rather than the two on each side that this one has. I don't know if that makes a difference. The other darts are fairly straight, while the ones that comes down from the sleeve have a bit of a curve on this one (mostly hidden by my arm in the photos).

    In the other jackets, to my eye, it looks like the sides come in at the waist, go out at the hips, and then turn down. In this one, they come in at the waist, go out at the hips, but then don't turn down enough, so they act a little bit like a skirt.

    I did visit a local tailor the other day with a couple items that I think I'll like working with. Once we get closer to the fall, I can have him take an in-person look. I love learning about this though. Even with my hand tremors, I'm tempted to take a stab at making a pair of trouser. Ok, poor choice of words—or appropriate.
     


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