The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Lord Mulberry

    Lord Mulberry Senior member

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    Not if you're a larger person
     


  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    storm rider

    i think you could slope the shoulders by 1 cm.
    also have a right low shoulder done.
    go to the tutorials to learn how to measure
    for a low shoulder.

    and stop flapping your arms. the wright brothers proved that does not work.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012


  3. DennyCrane13

    DennyCrane13 Member

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    What necessarily denotes a larger person? I have a 35" waist. I ahve ot wear a 44 to fit my shoulders. The 42 are much too small.
     


  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    removing the box pleat will hardly make any difference in the fit.
    the hip is far too tight. there is no way to make it bigger.
    you will always have that baggy back.
    you might try leaving the two or three bottom buttons open.

    and stop flapping your arms. you cant fly that way.
     


  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    denny
    dont know what else to tell you. but they say that pictures dont lie.
    and these pictures look too long in the body.
    is it something about the camera angle? or something else?
    at 6" 1' yes the rules say, in rtw sizes you should be wearing longs.
    but then rules are made to be broken.
    can you measure the length of these coats?
     


  6. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

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    A tailor,

    Okay I know the RL OCBD is not loved but as I said I have at least 15 of these shirts that are practically new so I would like to wear them.

    The shirt was darted, I assume if I have the darts removed this will help. They could also take in fabric in the back right?

    The alterations were done by "a reputable" tailor, how should I handle the situation? Is it my fault he made these mistakes? The shirts were very boxy to begin with so he had plenty of fabric to work with.

    If anyone else has advice I would appreciate it.
     


  7. DennyCrane13

    DennyCrane13 Member

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    Thats for your help tailor. They are 31" back length (bottom of collor to bottom of jacket). So they are pretty much right where they should be for a 44R right? Do you think the problem might have something to do with my 9.5" difference between my shoulder and chest measurement, making everything baggy? Does that make me a candidate for MTM or can I still buy OTR and get tailoring done? My chest is only 40", but my shoulders are 49.5" by my measurement right now. That should put me in a 42/44 category correct? Maybe I should try the 42"?
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2012


  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It seems like with these shirts you are going to have to live with it.
     


  9. AbrahamFromNOLA

    AbrahamFromNOLA Member

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    I purchased this Oxxford Double Breasted 6 x 1 off of Ebay and sent it to my favorite tailor for a tune up. My tailor doesn't like giving estimates so I had no idea how much bill would be. I picked up the suit today and was surprised at the $200 bill. The fit to me is fine except for the puckering in the back and the funny stuff going on by the button. I would love some opinions on the fit of the jacket. I'll take some pictures of the pants after my battery recharges.

    [​IMG]


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    Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.
     


  10. StormRider

    StormRider Senior member

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    A tailor, thanks, your comments are always helpful. I will see if modern tailor can slope the shoulder, and I remember they have a shoulder angle selection box when ordering.
    You pointed out the right low shoulder before. I am going to order a suit from Indochino soon, should I send them one of these pictures to show the right low shoulder?
    I promise I won't flap my arms in future pictures, though in all seriousness, do I need to adjust the arm hole?
    Thanks
     


  11. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you say the back was darted
    . i dont think so, if that was so they could be let out.
    but i dont see them in your pictures.
    there should be two lines of stitching going up
    and down the back.
    the tailor must have taken in the sides.
    all i can see is the side seams that are in the
    area below the sleeves. and those seams
    do not have anything that can be used to let out.
     


  12. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if the armhole is too deep, then yes you need a higher armhole.
    there is no approved way of measuring the amount the bottom
    of the armhole needs to be raised. you can guesstimate it a
    little at a time, by just looking inside while you have it on.
    pictures always help.
     


  13. ZirconiumZephyr

    ZirconiumZephyr Well-Known Member

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    Ok, first time poster here, would really appreciate some help :)

    I bought this suit second hand off ebay to start to get an idea of what I want in a suit. I live in a small city in Australia where my options for clothes shopping are severely limited. I've found a tailor who seems nice but I have no idea of the quality of his work yet, have only had small alterations (sleeve length) done so far.

    Anyway, this is the suit, a navy Corneliani, 2 button, unvented.... It feels a little too large (though I am no expert) but not too far off.

    Forgive the pins, still waiting to take the trousers up ;)

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    Many thanks in advance
     


  14. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    Nothing, looks great to me.
     


  15. GrensonMan

    GrensonMan Senior member

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    Hello gentleman,

    I will be taking this shirt in on Monday for alterations. It is a RTW that I am hoping can be altered enough to be my MTM reference shirt. Let me know what you think needs changing. I believe the arm length could be shortened 0.5'' and the waist taken in a bit as well. Thank you for your insights,
    [​IMG]
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