The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. pelagicus

    pelagicus Member

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    Hello Tailors and members! Many thanks for sharing your knowledge here.

    This is my first suit, which I just purchased. I am pretty darn new to tailored clothing, and I know I could use some feedback on the fit. I will wear this suit, with a different shirt (white, currently being altered) for my upcoming wedding and I hope to obtain the best fit that I reasonably can.

    So far I see that the sleeve length may need adjusting (will see for sure after I get the shirt back), and for the trousers I am thinking about less break. Thanks for your thoughts on these and further alterations that may improve the fit of the suit.


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  2. newbiephil

    newbiephil Member

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    Hi gentlemen, I've recently received my first suit ever (it's a MTM), quite happy with it but I am no expert. Was wondering if there are any alterations necessary as I have $75 credit. To help put things in perspective I'm not yet 18 so going for a slim look. Appreciate any suggestions! A bit off topic but should I consider purchasing a pocket square (probably white), this is for a school ball/formal. Thanks!

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  3. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    MAXC

    question, do the shoulders on this jacket feel heavier or more ridged or somehow different than your other jackets?

    you can stuff folded sox under the right shoulder to see if you can straighten out the front. if its a small amount, have it padded.
    if its extreme then you may have collar problems. then cutting down the shoulder may work. but its an iffy job that even the best tailors
    may not want to tackle. and it takes lots of hours [read $$$$$$} and afterward may still need a little more padding.
    once the balance is done then you can take care of the rest.

    to understand cutting down the shoulder. go to the tutorials, click on "cutting a low shoulder".

    good luck,
    alex
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2012
  4. Rkcarpio

    Rkcarpio Member

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    I think the fit is great. Great silhouette, the sleeves are raised high enough to show 1/4" of shirt cuff, the trousers are a nice slim fit with a small (or nonexistent) break, and the lapels hug your chest. nicely done.
    Which mtm company did you use? I'm currently debating on a mtm e-tailer such as Arden Reed or similar. the $75 alteration credit sounds like a good deal. I vote yes on the pocket square, always.
     
  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ok lets get you spifft up for the occasion.

    you have a right low shoulder, so have it padded up. the right hip is tight,. let that out, the left is ok.
    the center back has a duck tail at the bottom, from the roundness of the back. no fix for that.
    so lets take in the bottom of the center back seam thru the vent..
    and yes shorten the sleeves, to show a quarter to a half of shirt cuff. your choice.
    but be sure that the shirt cuff stops at the base of the thumb.
    the trousers look tight, are they comfortable?
    yes again the trousers need to be shortened.
     
  6. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

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    Hello, I'm about to order a couple of shirts from Nialma and need to input the measurements of my best fitting shirt. Before I do that, I would like to get any suggestions based on these pictures. The main fit issue I'm having is that when I sit down, I can feel tightness around my upper back and under the armpits. When I stand up, it feels fine. Do I need to increase the chest or armhole height (Nialma takes measurements for both)? Thank you.

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    Last edited: Aug 13, 2012
  7. semisuit

    semisuit New Member

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    Thank you, Despos, for the reply. I went to seek out another suit and found this one which is a snugger fit in the shoulders.

    There was a tailor/seamstress on staff who noticed my lower right shoulder. In these pictures, there is a right shoulder pad pinned in.

    Additionally, the right sleeve will be lengthened and the left shortened because my arms are uneven.

    There will be some waist suppression. Afterwards, she pinned the middle back seam as well to reduce the caving in front.

    I think I'm going to have to go with this one as I am running short on time.

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  8. Mox C

    Mox C Senior member

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    A little, though not in a major way. They are more snug. When measured from the collar seam to the sleeve seam, they are 6.5" vs. 6.75" and 7" on the other two jackets I compared it to. It does seem that the jacket pivots on the top button, with the hem strongly connected to the shoulder.

    I asked my roommate to grab a snap this time, so he could tell me if my shoulders were close to straight. He noticed that the center seam of the jacket didn't match my spine. I pulled out the tape and it is 8 3/8" from the left shoulder/sleeve seam intersection, and 8 7/8" from the right, so the center seam is shifted 1/4" to the left. Maybe someone reduced the jacket size by taking in the center seam? If they did, they trimmed any extra so that it can't be undone. It would also explain why the lining has a fold in it.

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    Thanks again. I'll check it out.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2012
  9. newbiephil

    newbiephil Member

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    I ordered from Black Lapel, it was $450 which I am pretty happy with!
     
  10. diophan

    diophan Member

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    I'm thinking back to what everyone wore in my high school for formals and it's very comical compared to your post--a smart fitting MTM suit and asking on styleforum for feedback!

    The sleeve length should be adjusted. The way you're standing your left sleeve is unseen and the right one just a sliver. IMO I wouldn't get a pocket square since you're so young. You'll already be putting everyone else to shame no need to overdo it with accessories at your age.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2012
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Most common is to have a low right or left shoulder but you have somewhat squarish shoulders and on this jacket you don't need the right side adjusted for your low right shoulder but you require more length over your left shoulder. You have a larger left shoulder blade and are higher at the neck and shoulder points on the left side. The result is the left side of the jacket is pulled to one side and the front and back are hiking up and out. The left shoulder is causing the jacket to shift on your body. I don't see an issue with the skirt flaring and the shoulders don't look too large. You may be use to the fit/feel of larger jackets. Bellows patch pockets add bulk on your hips, you may perceive this as flaring out.

    Look at the earlier set of pictures and notice how different the angle of the lapel gorge is on the right side compared to the left lapel. Something screwy going on.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2012
  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This one is too big , maybe even bigger than the other. Don't buy a suit that has to be taken in on the center back seam, Sure sign you have the wrong size.
     
  13. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Mr. Despose- I sent a PM a while back. I think you missed it after a reply :)
     
  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    screwy is right.
    the first front view shows a really low right shoulder. that last back view shows "almost " even shoulders.
    and the side view the left front pooched out front.
    so that square shoulders with a low right, that could be.


    maxc
    were the makers tags still on the jacket?
    or were they the stores tags?
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2012
  15. pelagicus

    pelagicus Member

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    Thanks, A tailor, I really appreciate the feedback. Off I go then for the alterations. It's interesting, I'm having a hard time getting them to 'do enough' - the right shoulder has been padded, the jacket sleeves shortened, and the pants let out, and shortened twice already. But better too little than too much I suppose.

    When you said to let out the right hip, I don't quite understand - is that the jacket or the trousers, and just so I understand and can communicate to the tailor, what is the issue I will be fixing?

    The pants feel fine when I stand but are just a little tight in the crotch area when I sit for a while.

    Thanks again.
     

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