The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[a tailor]



damn, I just got them lengthened by 4cm, maybe it was the shoes I had on that made them gather so much in that photo, I'll try them with black shoes and see how they go. Before I had them altered they didn't look right either because they were too short.


Just wondering if anyone else had any feedback re: fit - the sleeves seem to not be fitting right in the photos, any thoughts?

ok dammit.
the trouser length depends on you hanging them at the same way all the time.
could it be that each time you wore them in different ways?
it should be at the natural waist just above the hip bones, with the belt
snugged up as you prefer. if you change the way you wear the waist,
the results will be different.

the sleeves are not hanging at the same angle as your arms.
to correct that they need to be removed and re hung at the
correct angle for you.

 

[a tailor]



I apologize for the poor camera and the slightly odd angled pictures.

I'm thinking that the pants need to be shortened and the jackets sleeves shortened 3/4" as it goes past the joint in my wrist. But I'm still learning, so I could use some advise.
Thanks!

I apologize for the poor camera and the slightly odd angled pictures.

I'm thinking that the pants need to be shortened and the jackets sleeves shortened 3/4" as it goes past the joint in my wrist. But I'm still learning, so I could use some advise.
Thanks!

hoth you must start at the beginning
. first the shirt cuffs must end at the base of the thumb.
and all of your shirts should do the same.
then the suit sleeves are shortened to allow 1/2 of shirt
cuff to show.
check the tutorials and read "shirt sleeve showing problem".

 

[Gosroth]

very sorry gosroth
but it looks like you are wearing your little brothers jacket.
there is no way to make it longer. just dump it.

Thanks a lot for the reply! I really like the color, and typicaly don´t mind shorter jackets but yeah... this is a bit extreme. The jacket is EU 44, I might try to exchange for a EU 46. I also tried on EU 48 in the store and it did have the lenght but was just plain too big in every other aspect (chest, waist, sleeve lenght).



[FONT=arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif]Edit: I found a photo of a model wearing the item above and realized that getting this garment to fit in an elegant way might just an exercise in futility... it's probably case of “I want to look good in this because I got at a 75% discount” but it probably won't be possible. [/FONT]

 

[whitefisk]

Gents

I swear this fit me a lot better when i got it six months ago but there are obviously some problems with it currently. Thank you in advance for the fitting advice. i dont think i'll get any love for those shoes but what the hell, i'll show them off

 

[Xtraordinaire]

Noob here.

I have a question for the Master Tailors.

I recently purchased a grey suit. It is 3 button but the lapel design was folded to be 2 button. It was designed this way and the other suits on the rack are like this. It looks like the picture in the first post of this thread. Is there a name for this style? It gives one the option to button the top 2 whenever possible.

My second question is I have a 3 button suit and want to convert it just like the above. Is it possible to fold the lapels so it converges on the second button? What do I need to consider?


Thank you in advance for the help.

 

[sugarbutch]

It goes by 3-2, 3-roll-2, 3-button-2, maybe some other names. As for the second question, it depends on the suit. If the structure of the jacket allows for it, sure, you can re-press it to roll to the second button. If not, though, you're stuck with it as-is. I tried to get a couple hard-three jackets to roll to the second button, but they weren't made for it, and they never looked right.

 

[Despos]



Noob here.

I have a question for the Master Tailors. 

I recently purchased a grey suit.  It is 3 button but the lapel design was folded to be 2 button.  It was designed this way and the other suits on the rack are like this.  It looks like the picture in the first post of this thread.  Is there a name for this style?  It gives one the option to button the top 2 whenever possible.  

My second question is I have a 3 button suit and want to convert it just like the above.  Is it possible to fold the lapels so it converges on the second button?  What do I need to consider?  


Thank you in advance for the help.

It would be easier for you to find the previous discussions here about this. Jefferyd explained it with diagrams of the chest construction and how it effects the roll of the lapel.

Basically you control the roll of the lapel by adjusting the length of the collar. The longer the collar the higher the lapel will roll. To roll the lapel lower, you shorten the collar and cut away the chest piece if it is in the way. This is how to make the adjustment permanent.

 

[Despos]

...

Gents

I swear this fit me a lot better when i got it six months ago but there are obviously some problems with it currently. Thank you in advance for the fitting advice. i dont think i'll get any love for those shoes but what the hell, i'll show them off

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

[

/quote]

Jacket is too big at the blades and across the back. Back is hanging up on your shoulder blades causing tension and pull at the top of your blades in one picture and then just looks big in another picture due to the change in the way you are standing. Not sure if you have an issue or not.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



As for the second question, it depends on the suit. If the structure of the jacket allows for it, sure, you can re-press it to roll to the second button.

The structure of the jacket will never really allow it, as the roll line is determined as much by the cut of the collar as it is by the canvas/taping inside the fronts. It will always try to roll back to where it started, though its possible with certain coats the effect may be minimal enough to be acceptable.

 

[Despos]



I apologize for the poor camera and the slightly odd angled pictures.

I'm thinking that the pants need to be shortened and the jackets sleeves shortened 3/4" as it goes past the joint in my wrist. But I'm still learning, so I could use some advise.
Thanks!

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

You may need some collar/shoulder work too. Front balance looks a touch short and you would look better if the jacket were longer.

 

[Despos]



Alright guys, here is my entry to this thread.

I met Chris once at a dinner (at the bristol) and when we got up he commented that I must be hard to fit (which unfortunately, I have found to be true with my square shoulders and barrel chest)...so hopefully there is something we can do.

click for bigger:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I'm trying to revive this suit for a fairly casual wedding in a few weeks so I may not have the lead time to get the major surgery done (especially since I don't really have an established relationship with a tailor here in chicago) but I'd like to get to it eventually. At first glance, I can say for sure that the pants need to come way up and the sleeves need to be shortened. There shirt I am wearing has fairly tight cuffs so they don't fall as low as they could...but I can't see any cuff.

I feel like I look short in the photos (I'm more like 6'2, 190-200lbs). Shot as much light as I could at myself from the front (appologies for the nasty shadows in the back) so hopefully everything is pretty clear. And yes, my right shoulder is noticably higher than my left--I don't know if it is getting worse or if I have just started noticing it more).

Thanks in advance for all of the wonderful work that has gone into this thread.

edit: double posted the back shot

Shoulders need to be squared up and may need to shorten the collar. Left sleeve is a bit shorter than right but you should wait for the shoulder adjustment before doing the sleeves. Front balance is short but will get better after the collar work. Jacket length is getting borderline short, may just be the short front length throwing it off.

Would be nice to lift the back of the trouser to clean up the drape of the back trouser. You may need the seat and crotch taken in.

 

[Despos]



Hi All,

I will be ordering the better part of a new business casual wardrobe online shortly, including a number of blazers, and need to know my size. I'm hoping that you could tell me if the 42R suit jacket below is the most appropriate size, and if not, what size might be appropriate. With that said, I'm not concerned with alterations that may need to be made - I recognize its not great. I apologize for the [crappy] quality of the iPhone pictures and thank you for your input ahead of time!

Jos A Bank 42R Jacket:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Much appreciated!

You want to know your size in the brand you will purchase. The fit of a 42 from one maker will not be the same as another.

 

[dijor]

Hi,

I'm 6'1" and weight 176 lbs. What do you think of this Boglioli Dover size 50/40?

Is it maybe too short in the length? I have very long arms as you can see should I enlarge the sleeves?

Thank you
Dijor

 

[Despos]



Thanks a lot for the reply! I really like the color, and typicaly don´t mind shorter jackets but yeah... this is a bit extreme. The jacket is EU 44, I might try to exchange for a EU 46. I also tried on EU 48 in the store and it did have the lenght but was just plain too big in every other aspect (chest, waist, sleeve lenght).

To get a longer jacket you want to buy jacket that isn't cut so short for style or look for a long. Jackets come in short, regular and long in the same chest size.
Buying a bigger size does not make the jacket longer, just bigger. Length only changes 1/8 or 1/4" per size.

 

[a tailor]



New MTM light grey suit from Jason at Thick as Thieves (got measured in person by Jason).  The harsh middle of the day side lighting is not very flattering to the suit.  Jacket seems a little big and the shoulders appear too wide?  There is also a lot of room around the stomach (I have a 30" waist but it doesn't look that way with the jacket on).  Some issues with the shoulders and back highlighted in the last two pictures, any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

the light is perfect, it shows where the problems are. all lighting should be like this.
first you have a right low shoulder. thats why the right lapel bows out.
the jacket is at least an 1&1/2" too short, unless you like the shorter lengths.
we cant see whats inside the shoulders. if they feel too wide then they are.
a half inch narrower on each side at the most.
you have a erect head. the top of the back needs to be shortened.
the waist is pretty good, its not supposed to fit tight.
the trouser seat needs to be taken in and the seat seem re shaped.
the narrow bottoms and tightness over the calf is causing the heavy break.