Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.
I'm parting with the corneliani, but your comments on the Isaia are still appreciated.
Good idea, the Corneliani didn't do anything for you and looks big all over.
The Isaia looks ok but I would consider shortening the jacket up to 1" to balance the bottom with the too high butting point. There is a good illustration of this in the thread asking if 1" of length makes a difference in a sport coat.
Have the button moved to adjust for your low right shoulder.
Seeing the back and side view of the jackets will reveal more fitting issues than a front view.
I was able to go back and get pics of the short.
- to me the short feels a tad bit too short now.
what do you think?
- go w/ the short?
- the regular and then have the jacket shortened? if shortened, by how much?
I'm trying to find an OTR brand for sport coats and pants that fit with my 5'9" 150lb frame. Could you take a look at the below pictures and provide comments? I think it's pretty clear that these don't work, but understanding why will help me find a better fit. Thank you.
Brooks Brothers 38R Fitzgerald. Unaltered. Coat length is 30". The front looks ok to me, but what's going on at the back?
Brooks Brothers 38R Linen Fitzgerald. Unaltered. Coat length is 30". I don't think my butt is especially big, but it's already pulling at the vent. Same problems at the back.
Brooks Brothers 38R Fitzgerald. Sleeves shortened, collar shortened, waist taken in. Length is 29.25". Is this a better length for me? I didn't realize the vent was like that until today when I took these pics.
A photo of me with just a shirt in case it helps. What is causing the billowing behind my thighs? I think it's because my calves are pulling the pants outward and so it's roomy behind the thighs.
Sorry for the duplicates, had technical problems.
Any recommendations? My tailor tells me my left arm is longer than my right and after looking at these pics, I agree.
I'm a little over 6', 165 lbs. Tailor wanted to go with bigger pants but I opted for a skinnier version; not sure if the best decision.
Many thanks in advance!
Finished, just before the sun went down. I went ahead an finished it, because I'm going to need a warm suit for some interviews in the coming month. I need a haircut.
Spoiler: Fit pics, details, and comments in spoiler wrapper.
It's only when I see pictures of the finished product that I think the sleeves are too short. They didn't appear too short in the mirror. This makes two consecutive coats that I've done this. I'm such an idiot.
I think Jukes made a comment about the secret to a nicely-hanging waist was to raise it above the natural waist 1", and I really do notice that this is true when I shrug. I will alter this next time.
The back still isn't great. I think I may need more room across the blades, and I don't think I got the side seam in the correct place, both width-wise, and getting the waist in the right spot vertically.
I definitely need to clean up the divots under the armpits on the backs once I understand what causes them, and also do a better attempt at narrowing the waist at the side seams so as to not get messy wrinkles at the vents. The sleeves might be cut a bit too full at the back.
The pads have trouble supporting the wadding in the rope at the back.
I don't think the collar draft I did is great. It's not horrible, per se, but it may be too curved - i.e. the outer edge could sit "tighter" against the back.
Trousers look a little long standing in the grass, but I don't think they are once I'm on a firm surface.
Pocket flaps kicking up (despite my best efforts at pick stitching). I think they're slightly too big for the pocket mouths.
Fronts fit better than previous coats around chest, waist, and shoulders.
Tom Ford milanèse.
Did I do the button stance / wrap too wide? The buttons are 12.5 x 14cm apart. The pockets are only 1cm in from the front darts. I'd welcome any criticisms or comments on things I did wrong that so that I can try to improve them next time, especially around the messy back.
I think it's well worth mentioning my appreciation of all the professionals here who make helpful comments and criticisms. I know it's frustrating to try to diagnose problems through photographs, and the real way to learn this craft is through an apprenticeship. Thank you all who make helpful suggestions and contributions to this forum; your collective knowledge is a wonderful resource!
I think those trousers would look a lot better if they were slimmer. as you have mentioned, the sleeves are to short. and maybe you need to resew the non working bottom button.
overall looks very good to me.
Will offer you a few observations from seeing these pictures and reading your comments.
The narrowest point of the waist will look best about 1/2" above the buttoning point. Let the jacket out from this point to the hem to create more shape. Wouldn't make the back wider at the blades but you could use more horizontal width on the underarm/side body. That lets the back move up and would clean up under the arms a bit. You need to learn how to create shape. Narrower back, more on the side body.
I don't care for the collar sitting so flat on your neck and shoulders and the collar is too short and putting tension on the lapel at the button. Do you know where to put fullness when basting the under collar? Collar could sit a bit higher in back. You would benefit from adding 1/4 to 3/8" on the back shoulder at the neck and raising the collar.
The lapels are different heights. The right is lower than the left. It looks like you have too much seam outlet along the edges and maybe didn't trim them. The thickness along the edges may have been pressed too hard and made a sheen. Did you trim the outlets to be uneven to smooth them out? If you trim the seams properly you will get nicer points on the peak and it will be easier to make. The lapel buttonhole should be closer to the lapel edge by 1/2". It is too far from the edge, almost centered.
11.5 cm between the buttons is sort of a standard but not a rule. When you do a wide spacing like this it looks better if the horizontal spacing is more than the vertical. Yours is higher vertically than wider horizontally. If you lowered the middle button 1" it would look more balanced. The top buttons should be 1" further up than the distance from the middle to the bottom button. Yours are spaced the same. If you have the middle button 5" from the lowest buttons, put the top buttons 6" from the middle button.
The sleeves look like they were cut on an old system where you don't draft the front edge of the top sleeve and add 1 1/4" when you cut on the cloth but it wasn't done here. The front seam of the sleeve should not be exposed like this. It's good to have a full sleeve in the back so you get a nice drape on the back sleeve.
You have a low right shoulder. Read more about adjusting for this. Mark your lapels to be the same distance from the shoulder and neck point.
Your right hip is higher than the left and causes the crease to pull to the outside. You can see how the crease hits off center on your shoe in front and back on the right leg. Left crease is centered.
The front edge appears to not be totally vertical/perpendicular to the ground. Could be from the tight collar or a balance issue.
Your comment about the flaps turning up isn't and shouldn't be related to pic stitching. The functionality of pic stitching is to hold the various layers together and keep the edges straight and not roll. Whatever you use under the flaps, lining or cloth, is cut a bit smaller than the flap and basted together. After sewing and turning the flap the underside being smaller than the top cloth causes the edges to roll under.
The breast pocket position is too close to the sleeve, too high and is covered by the lapel too much. Find a new position for the breast pocket.
The pic stitching is too far apart and the stitches are pulled too tight. Go slower and have each stitch showing the same amount. It is very irregular as is.
The lapel shape from mid point to the top looks like it is the same width. If the top were 1/2" wider you would get a more dynamic look.
Keep sewing, it isn't easy and takes a lot of repetition. The things you are attempting are way advanced compared to someone who would go through an apprenticeship. Apprenticing, you move on after learning and mastering the simpler tasks. Styling and cutting, shoulders, collars and sleeves are much further down the road.
Thanks enormously for the excellent inventory of advice Chris. I was blind to all of those points, so having someone point them out to me helps enormously! You're great.
For the seam allowances on the lapels, they're pinked. I have pressed them too hard, I think. The allowances are trimmed to about 2mm at the points; I just sewed them bluntly. Should they be more pointed? For an 11.5cm spacing, are the bottom 4 buttons typically in a square? I thought DB buttons went in a vertically "stretched" rectangle orientation like a windowpane pattern to look a little "longer" and add height? (Though, I guess this is what the top wider-spaced row is for?)
Bump. Still looking for help on my post (just a couple up). Thanks.
Are you able to find a 36 because these look big, especially across the shoulder and blades. If you can't get a 36 look for a trimmer cut model with narrow shoulders in a 38. The fronts are crossing over and the vent opening are signs of a short front and long back regarding balance. Side views would confirm this. If you pull the back up at the collar at the center back seam you will see the center vent straighten out.
The wrinkling on the trouser is a balance issue caused by the back part being too long in relation to the front part. Lifting the back part of the trouser will lift the trouser off your calves.
The fitting issues you have are difficult and expensive to do. You could keep trying different makers looking for a cut that is closer to your physical needs and requires the minimal adjusting or use a MTM service that would make the proper adjustments.
Noob here, with three different suits in three different fits from Suit Supply. I'm looking for advice on (a) which one to keep, and (b) what needs to be altered to improve fit.
First off, Napoli fit:
Finally, Sienna fit:
I know nothing about these things, but to me it looks like there are at least three problems:
-excess fabric at the back of the shoulder - is this because my shoulders hunch forward?
-something weird at the back lower right - might be because I didn't let the vents out
-fit on right shoulder is bad on all three - do I have an asymmetry in my shoulders?
Any and all comments welcome.
Hi guys - been a lurker and searcher type on styleforum for a while now - this is my first post. I'm a rising junior in college and needed to purchase an inexpensive suit for upcoming interviews, parties and such, and I was on a strict budget due to being in college.
This is my first suit and I was wondering if it is worth keeping to have it tailored to fit me, or if the fit is looking completely off. Apologies that the photos aren't the best (colors and such are way off), but I did my best to have clear, well-lit photos.
For reference sake, I'm 5'11, 200 lbs, and am a sprinter on the college track team (I have sprinter "thunder" thighs) - I know I need to have the pants let out some because the suit is a slim-fitting one (pockets are bulging), but I don't know what else needs to be done.
Thank you in advance - you are a great asset to this community!
Link to Album (for larger photos, please click on the photo in the album, and then click on the photo again to zoom) http://s1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee475/knivesandguns/Suit photos for Styleforum/
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