The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. mackmittonz

    mackmittonz Well-Known Member

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    I need some feedback on the sleeve length of some shirts I recently purchased from Charles Tyrwhitt and also a blazer which I had my tailor shorten the sleeves. My tailor insists the blazer sleeve length after his alterations is correct and that my dress shirt sleeves are 1 in short. I normally wear 32/33 sleeve length when I buy OTR but I ordered my shirt sleeves at 32" when I recently purchased them from CT.

    I've taken some photos where I compare my new dress shirt that has a 32" sleeve with an old one that has 32/33 sleeves. I've also taken comparison photos of the shirts with the blazer and a suit jacket I already own. Just trying to figure out which item is the correct length at this point (or both are off). I apologize for picking a shirt that's almost the same color...

    32" sleeve unbuttoned
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    32/33 sleeve unbuttoned
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    32" sleeve unbuttoned
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    32/33 unbuttoned
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    32" unbuttoned
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    32/33 unbuttoned
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    32" buttoned
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    32/33 buttoned
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    32" + blazer
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    32" + suit jacket
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    32/33 + blazer
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  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is kind of preference. I prefer my sleeves up a bit shorter than that on my shirts and jackets. I would say that the 32" + Blazer looks the worst of the bunch, but it isn't bad. Go with what you like.
     


  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I like the 32" + suit jacket. Does the 32/33" look the same with this suit jacket? If it does, then your tailor needs to stop arguing and set the sleeve where you want it. (I'm assuming this is the one you like, but it applies for whichever combo is your preference.)
     


  4. mackmittonz

    mackmittonz Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the feedback - Do you think the CT's shirt sleeves are ok? Tailor insisted the sleeves should be 1 inch longer.
     


  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    He sounds like a frumpy idiot.
     


  6. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    The 32" looks OK to me. I like them shorter, but that's personal preference. The 32-33" looks right under the jackets but I personally wouldn't have so much bunching, it's not needed. And an inch longer would be too long by any standards; since the cuff is what is holding the sleeve in place, any extra length would just create unneeded bunching without making the sleeves themselves any longer.
    Also, did you move the cuff buttons? I have to do that on every Tyrwhitt shirt I get, their cuffs are huge; but yours look right...
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2012


  7. mackmittonz

    mackmittonz Well-Known Member

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    Haha - the frumpy tailor is Sun Tailoring in Tysons Galleria for anyone that is in the DC/MD/VA area. He's willing to do what I want but felt very strongly about keeping the jacket sleeves that length. He measured from the tip of my thumb and said 4 inches from the bottom tip of my thumb is where the jacket sleeve should start. The logic seemed a little flawed. What if I'm Shaq? In his case the sleeve would cover like half his hand.

    I actually haven't made any changes to the CT shirt so I'm fortunate. I'm going to ask the tailor to shorten the sleeves another 1/4".
     


  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think he actually uses the same tailor...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2012


  9. mackmittonz

    mackmittonz Well-Known Member

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    HAHAHAHA - That's a priceless pic.
     


  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Unless you make the cuff opening larger, it doesn't matter if the sleeve is 1" longer. As long as the cuff circumference is smaller than that part of your hand, you could add a foot of material to the sleeve and it wouldn't show any more with the jacket on.
     


  11. adamha21

    adamha21 Senior member

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    Ok--I just received my new suit and would love some feedback from the experts in this thread. It has not been pressed--just hung since I took it out of the box. The suit is unfinished and I will be taking it to a tailor next week.

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  12. kupus

    kupus Member

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    A pre-emptive thanks to the tailors. Here's a recent HF suit that I got that is going to the tailors soon. Pants are unfinished and I just roughly rolled up the right pant leg and left the left pant leg dangling. Aside from hemming the pants (I am thinking 2" cuff) I am considering tapering them a bit: They have roughly a 9.25 opening and I am thinking perhaps 8.5. From the pictures I think the pants also need to be let out in the seat a bit. Looking for feedback on what should be done with the jacket as well. I really appreciate any help.

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    And the rest:
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  13. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    By going through this thread I can't help but notice that many of the suits people have posted suffer from the same balance problem, jackets not being made for an erect posture, making the front too short and shoulders not sit correctly. Perhaps RTW makers should start thinking about making coats more "erect" by default... [​IMG]
     


  14. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    adamha21: Jacket looks too short, but hard to say since we can't see the overall proportions. It's important to get full-length pics...
     


  15. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    I don't think you should make them too much narrower at the hem, too narrow will make your feet look huge and maybe also prove to be discordant with the rest of the suit, since the jacket is relatively conservatively cut.
     


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