The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ok dammit.
    the trouser length depends on you hanging them at the same way all the time.
    could it be that each time you wore them in different ways?
    it should be at the natural waist just above the hip bones, with the belt
    snugged up as you prefer. if you change the way you wear the waist,
    the results will be different.

    the sleeves are not hanging at the same angle as your arms.
    to correct that they need to be removed and re hung at the
    correct angle for you.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2012
  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hoth you must start at the beginning
    . first the shirt cuffs must end at the base of the thumb.
    and all of your shirts should do the same.
    then the suit sleeves are shortened to allow 1/2 of shirt
    cuff to show.
    check the tutorials and read "shirt sleeve showing problem".
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2012
  3. Gosroth

    Gosroth Senior member

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    Thanks a lot for the reply! I really like the color, and typicaly don´t mind shorter jackets but yeah... this is a bit extreme. The jacket is EU 44, I might try to exchange for a EU 46. I also tried on EU 48 in the store and it did have the lenght but was just plain too big in every other aspect (chest, waist, sleeve lenght).



    [FONT=arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif]Edit: I found a photo of a model wearing the item above and realized that getting this garment to fit in an elegant way might just an exercise in futility... it's probably case of “I want to look good in this because I got at a 75% discount” but it probably won't be possible. [/FONT]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2012
  4. whitefisk

    whitefisk Member

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    Gents

    I swear this fit me a lot better when i got it six months ago but there are obviously some problems with it currently. Thank you in advance for the fitting advice. i dont think i'll get any love for those shoes but what the hell, i'll show them off


    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2012
  5. Xtraordinaire

    Xtraordinaire Member

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    Noob here.

    I have a question for the Master Tailors.

    I recently purchased a grey suit. It is 3 button but the lapel design was folded to be 2 button. It was designed this way and the other suits on the rack are like this. It looks like the picture in the first post of this thread. Is there a name for this style? It gives one the option to button the top 2 whenever possible.

    My second question is I have a 3 button suit and want to convert it just like the above. Is it possible to fold the lapels so it converges on the second button? What do I need to consider?


    Thank you in advance for the help.
     
  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    It goes by 3-2, 3-roll-2, 3-button-2, maybe some other names. As for the second question, it depends on the suit. If the structure of the jacket allows for it, sure, you can re-press it to roll to the second button. If not, though, you're stuck with it as-is. I tried to get a couple hard-three jackets to roll to the second button, but they weren't made for it, and they never looked right.
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It would be easier for you to find the previous discussions here about this. Jefferyd explained it with diagrams of the chest construction and how it effects the roll of the lapel.

    Basically you control the roll of the lapel by adjusting the length of the collar. The longer the collar the higher the lapel will roll. To roll the lapel lower, you shorten the collar and cut away the chest piece if it is in the way. This is how to make the adjustment permanent.
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Gents

    I swear this fit me a lot better when i got it six months ago but there are obviously some problems with it currently. Thank you in advance for the fitting advice. i dont think i'll get any love for those shoes but what the hell, i'll show them off


    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    [
    /quote]

    Jacket is too big at the blades and across the back. Back is hanging up on your shoulder blades causing tension and pull at the top of your blades in one picture and then just looks big in another picture due to the change in the way you are standing. Not sure if you have an issue or not.
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2012
  9. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    The structure of the jacket will never really allow it, as the roll line is determined as much by the cut of the collar as it is by the canvas/taping inside the fronts. It will always try to roll back to where it started, though its possible with certain coats the effect may be minimal enough to be acceptable.
     
  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You may need some collar/shoulder work too. Front balance looks a touch short and you would look better if the jacket were longer.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shoulders need to be squared up and may need to shorten the collar. Left sleeve is a bit shorter than right but you should wait for the shoulder adjustment before doing the sleeves. Front balance is short but will get better after the collar work. Jacket length is getting borderline short, may just be the short front length throwing it off.

    Would be nice to lift the back of the trouser to clean up the drape of the back trouser. You may need the seat and crotch taken in.
     
  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You want to know your size in the brand you will purchase. The fit of a 42 from one maker will not be the same as another.
     
  13. dijor

    dijor Senior member

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    Hi,

    I'm 6'1" and weight 176 lbs. What do you think of this Boglioli Dover size 50/40?

    Is it maybe too short in the length? I have very long arms as you can see should I enlarge the sleeves?

    Thank you[​IMG]
    Dijor
     
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    To get a longer jacket you want to buy jacket that isn't cut so short for style or look for a long. Jackets come in short, regular and long in the same chest size.
    Buying a bigger size does not make the jacket longer, just bigger. Length only changes 1/8 or 1/4" per size.
     
  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the light is perfect, it shows where the problems are. all lighting should be like this.
    first you have a right low shoulder. thats why the right lapel bows out.
    the jacket is at least an 1&1/2" too short, unless you like the shorter lengths.
    we cant see whats inside the shoulders. if they feel too wide then they are.
    a half inch narrower on each side at the most.
    you have a erect head. the top of the back needs to be shortened.
    the waist is pretty good, its not supposed to fit tight.
    the trouser seat needs to be taken in and the seat seem re shaped.
    the narrow bottoms and tightness over the calf is causing the heavy break.
     

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