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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. UnnamedPlayer

    UnnamedPlayer Senior member

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    Can you provide feedback on this fit:

    [​IMG]


    Particularly interested in comments on the shoulder width.

    thanks.
     
  2. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    ^ I hope this last post was a joke....or are you really interested in how this jacket fits your hanger?
     
  3. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    The jacket does not fit the hanger.
     
  4. UnnamedPlayer

    UnnamedPlayer Senior member

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    Should I get my tailor to alter the jacket or my Haberdasher to alter the hanger?

    thanks.
     
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sleeves too short, possibly a long front balance. The buckling around the button is probably caused by a low left shoulder on the hanger. Very difficult to fix on a finished garment.
     
  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you are picky picky picky. SB.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  7. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    but have you asked the hanger, if the shoulder is comfortable?
    are you so unsensitive of your hangers feelings?
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tapering question for the resident tailors:

    I was under the impression that tapering pents requires taking in on both sides (inseam + outside) equally to keep the crease centered. Can tuxedo pants with ribbon strip on the outside be tapered? Does the tailor have to take off the ribbon and resew it? Is it more costly to taper tuxedo pants?

    thanks!
     
  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, the crease is centered on the front panels. If you only take the trouser on the inseam, the crease is closer to the inseam and not centered. It also increases the curve of the back part on the inseam to work on the inseam only. If you are tapering a very slight amount you could get away with tapering the inseam, remove and reset the crease. You would reduce a lot of the work, time and cost. If tapering more, then it is best to remove the braid and taper properly. Braids are applied using different methods. Some are sewn into the seam and some applied on the top surface of the cloth. The sewn in method will be more work and more expensive to do.
     
  10. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks very much, Despos. That's sorta what I thought. I'll weigh whether it's worth it. I would be going from about 8.5" across the leg opening to about 7.75"
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    unsolicited opinion. I wouldn't wear a tuxedo with an overly tapered leg. Would consider the shoe style worn and want the trouser to sit nicely on top of the shoe. You would want to shorten the trouser more at 7.75 to look right than with the opening at 8.5, but you know what you like and want.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2012
  12. timbugtoo

    timbugtoo New Member

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    Hey guys, this is a suit I ordered from Black Lapel, in the hope of getting a suit that actually fits me. It's a Light Gray Slim Fit suit.

    I did discover that, in terms of the tailoring at the stomach and in the width of the pants, the Slim Fit was a tad more aggressive than I was wanting. But that's personal preference. And I understand I could adjust both of those things a bit with tailoring.

    Could you guys let me know what you think about the overall fit? (I haven't gotten the suit steamed or anything yet, so maybe that makes it harder to judge?) I know the pant legs are too short, and I noticed wrinkles/folds on the back of the coat just behind the armpits. Also, my dress shirt sleeves aren't showing at all, but I think the problem is probably that my dress shirt sleeves are just a tad too short.

    My biggest question is regarding the shoulders. Are they too wide? I'm wondering if I'll need to have the coat remade, or if it can just be tailored.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    Thanks for any input you have! I don't really know what I'm doing.
     
  13. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    I think the shoulders look fine. There is a little space opening between the suit and shirt collars, but it still looks pretty good.
     
  14. johnvw

    johnvw Senior member

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    The jacket needs a hanger from the Hanger Project.
     
  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    first check the trousers. they may be shaded or it may just be the lighting.
    but it looks like the wrong trousers.

    if you decide on a jacket remake.
    you have a right low shoulder, and a high right hip.
    the waist and seat circumferences an inch larger.
    the shoulders look just a bit wide, but not being able
    to put a hand on the jacket its a guess. 1/4" 1/2" ?
    the sleeves need to be shorter about 1/2"
    your erect posture wants the back to be 1/2" shorter
    at the top.
    you should send these pictures to them along with
    the instructions. draw arrows at the points you describe.

    you might go to the tutorials. there is information on the
    changes above. it will help you understand what is happening.
     
  16. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    Click for large size

    The difference the 1cm change in neckpoint makes is amazing. Suddenly, the collar hugs tightly, but almost all the other seams need to find a different natural position, and the scye needs a lot of work after that. It's taken me ages to understand most of the implications of changing the neck point, and it's been very instructive. (And time consuming. I've done heaps of rebastes that looked rubbish.)

    I'm pretty much out of inlay at the side of the fronts (there is no separate sidebody), and at the shoulder on the fronts, which is a shame, because I think that letting out the front side and taking in the back side could result in a cleaner looking back. I'll make as much adjustment as I can there with what seam allowance is left.

    The back still has a little work to go. I take it I need to take in the back at the lats a little, and stretch the upper back over the blades more to reduce the pulling at the top CB seam?

    THe backs are about 8mm longer than the front at the shoulder seams, and there is about 1cm of fullness in the backs basted at the undercollar. It really needs a pressing - it's been pulled and tugged a lot over the last week.

    Here is the pattern of the original jacket:

    [​IMG]

    I basted a sleeve in, to test the adjusted sleeve cap. I'll also need to take note of the natural hang of the sleeve vs the stripe orientation for next time, given that the stripes are not vertical. This is the first time I've cut for stripes. I'll probably shorten the sleeve 5-7mm.

    Are there other adjustments I could make that would improve the appearance of the coat, within the limits of what I have to work with
     
  17. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I can't provide technical advice, but man, this is looking really good. The back might need cleaning up a little, but balance, shoulder width and sleeve pitch are spot on!
     
  18. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you for showing the pattern. There are things to change about the pattern, don't use this pattern as it is again. Correct the pattern before the next jacket and you won't have as many issues. Biggest issue is the shape/curve of the underarm panel. The top back part of the curve needs to be much higher. There is no roundness in the armhole shape

    The shoulder seam sits too far back. That's why the collar sits so low in back. You want the collar about 2 cm higher at the center back point. On the pattern, Is the neck curve on the back where you baste the collar? Do you add an outlet above the curve or cut the cloth on the curve of the pattern? Sorry, not sure how to phrase the question.

    not sure what you mean by this

    Another experiment. Open shoulders, take off the back part. Lower the front shoulder line 2 cm at the neck and 3 cm at the end of the shoulder point at the armhole. At the bottom hem of the front, lengthen the jacket fronts 4.5 cm. at the front edge and 3.5 cm at the back where you join the side seams. After you mark the jacket this way, take a picture of the jacket while it is open. Want to see the armhole shape.

    Don't change the back length. Baste the sides and baste about 1.5 cm of fullness into the back shoulder.

    Lower the button position on the waist 2 cm.

    A general comment and question. You do use a thimble, right? On your basting stitches, try to go under the cloth less and make the stitches more equal in length. Not short ones and long ones. Your basting thread will look more like 3 cm of white thread and 1/2 cm or less of space between the stitches. If you have trouble going under the cloth in smaller amounts, hold the needle closer to the point of the needle.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
  19. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    Need some help here guys - I'm trying a new MTM suit where the company sends a sample suit of a standard size, you try it on and give measurement changes that will be applied to your MTM suit. I'm usually a 40L, and this is a 40R, so I assumed I would need some extra length, lower the buttoning point, etc. However, this suit is cut pretty small in almost every dimension - I wonder if I should return it and try the 42R and then make adjustments based on that? I would need to make pretty many changes to this pattern, and I'm a little nervous the finished product may still have some problems

    The jacket fits tight in the shoulders and the armholes also feel too snug as well. The chest feels pretty good though - it's not pulling across the front and the lapels aren't bowing out at all. The trousers are good in the waist, but the seat and thigh are definitely too tight. Any thoughts/criticisms are appreciated. And remember this suit is just a sample - I can change any measurements and a new suit will be completely recut for me. Thanks!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  20. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The pictures are too dark on my screen to see much close up detail, get a larger size and see if it is better. You don't need a long. May have to adjust for erect posture. Post pictures when you get the next size up.

    The trouser is very tight , definitely need a bigger size and a fuller leg so you don't look bow legged.
     

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