The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[dauster]

Finally got the pics from my fitting with Richard Anderson back - light blue pants are bespoke and darker blue pants and jacket is a MTM suit. Any feedback on fit and potenital alterations greatly appreciated. Jacket felt tight in the chest and shoulders for sure. And bespoke pants felt tight in the thigh area. Obviously length of pants and jacket sleeves will be adjusted. Feedback welcome.

Bespoke pants:

MTM suit

 

[usctrojans31]

Probably just the angle, these are RTW in any case.

The cuffs are 2” - maybe reduce to 1.5” and increase the length 0.5” ?

Think that would help. How tall are you? My tailor does 2" cuffs only for people around 6'2" and up. The rest get 1.5".

I also think a fuller pant would do wonders for you. Alan Bee is now going to pop into the thread like the Kool Aid man. I'm convinced that he has an alert for the term fuller pants

 

[Despos]

I'd like to have these irregular wide wale trousers let out about an inch. See photos for closeups of the material and how it meets at the waist. Is this inadvisable to do with this kind of corduroy? I do not want unsightly creases/scarting or which clearly still shows the original line of the seat. Thanks for any advice.

If this is the wrong forum to ask this type of question, please just let me know. It seemed a good fit (no pun intended)

Will probably leave a trace of the old seam. The nap and being cotton are the reasons.

Lots of water, steam and heat, press only on the back side not on the face. If you aren't happy with it you can have it sewn again to the original.

 

[Despos]

Think that would help. How tall are you? My tailor does 2" cuffs only for people around 6'2" and up. The rest get 1.5".

I also think a fuller pant would do wonders for you. Alan Bee is now going to pop into the thread like the Kool Aid man. I'm convinced that he has an alert for the term fuller pants

Most cuffs we make are 1 5/8" or 1 3/4". Rarely anyone asks for 2" cuffs.

 

[Aloysius16]

I have asked this question before but have forgotten the response unfortunately.

I have narrow hips and a ‘flat seat’, so all pants tend to have excess cloth around the rear. Would it be preferable to ask for this to be altered by being taken in along the centre seam or for the back part to be taken in along each of the outseams? From past experience I suspect the outseams are better, especially if a significant adjustment is required (I often need to take in 0.5" at each seam, from waistband down to a few inches below where the pocket ends, level with the crotch) but I have no idea if this is correct or not.

 

[1up]

Think that would help. How tall are you? My tailor does 2" cuffs only for people around 6'2" and up. The rest get 1.5".

I also think a fuller pant would do wonders for you. Alan Bee is now going to pop into the thread like the Kool Aid man. I'm convinced that he has an alert for the term fuller pants

I'm 5'10 - and will change them to 1.5" cuffs like all my other pants! Not sure why I tried 2".

And yes, progressively moving towards fuller pants - in due time..

 

[lfd75]

Quick question for the experts; what is the maximum number of sizes that pants can be taken in without needing a recut? My searche showed numbers ranging from 2"-6". I think 6" is too much but how about 4"?

 

[Despos]

I have asked this question before but have forgotten the response unfortunately.

I have narrow hips and a ‘flat seat’, so all pants tend to have excess cloth around the rear. Would it be preferable to ask for this to be altered by being taken in along the centre seam or for the back part to be taken in along each of the outseams? From past experience I suspect the outseams are better, especially if a significant adjustment is required (I often need to take in 0.5" at each seam, from waistband down to a few inches below where the pocket ends, level with the crotch) but I have no idea if this is correct or not.

Depends. The angle of the waist/seat seam is relative to your body type/shape. If the angle is correct you want to reduce on the side seams. If the angle of the waist/seat seam needs to be adjusted to the shape of the seat, do that first. For a flat seat the angle of the waist/seat seam needs to be more vertical and less of an angle like this /.

 

[Despos]

Quick question for the experts; what is the maximum number of sizes that pants can be taken in without needing a recut? My searche showed numbers ranging from 2"-6". I think 6" is too much but how about 4"?

Depends on the waist size. if you have a 46" waist you can reduce more than if you have a 32" waist. Smaller sizes 2" is max before the side seams and front pockets move too far to the back. The issue is all the taking in is done at the center back seam and doesn't take away cloth across the front panels. Will always be baggy fullness on the fronts.
Recutting involves reducing the front panel which means you either have to remake the fly or remake the pocket and both of these adjustments require removing the waistband. Usually not worth the effort for the expense of doing the work.

 

[lfd75]

Depends on the waist size. if you have a 46" waist you can reduce more than if you have a 32" waist. Smaller sizes 2" is max before the side seams and front pockets move too far to the back. The issue is all the taking in is done at the center back seam and doesn't take away cloth across the front panels. Will always be baggy fullness on the fronts.
Recutting involves reducing the front panel which means you either have to remake the fly or remake the pocket and both of these adjustments require removing the waistband. Usually not worth the effort for the expense of doing the work.

Thank you very much for your reply! Basically I was wondering if size 40 pants (that would be free) could be easily converted to size 36 but I think I'll pass.

 

[Torzano]

Can this rip be fixed well or will there be a noticeable line with the repair?

 

[Torzano]

Can this rip be repaired decently without a repair being too obvious?

 

[4r36]

Dear all, I would like to know your opinion about a shoulder issue I have with my blazer. The left shoulder shows some dimples (no divots with arm at rest) close to the sleeve-head, exactly where my natural shoulder ends. Do you think the reason is that the jacket shoulder is too much extended? What annoys me a bit, it is that because of the dimples the shoulder seems to collapse. Here some pictures:

 

[dauster]

So just got my trial shirt from Vanacore through Steve from Gentlemen ‘s Footwear back, any suggestions?

 

[beargonefishing]

So just got my trial shirt from Vanacore through Steve from Gentlemen ‘s Footwear back, any suggestions?

Definitely get another sleeve.