The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Andy57]

What does everyone think of the waistcoat on the left? I was looking for something with a similar vibe to those on the right. View attachment 2084809

Bold! I kinda like it.

 

[The Chai]

I agree witrh Andy57 but have gone one step further and stopped getting back pockets on tuxedo trousers. I found that I never really used them.

On my more formal suits I have no back pockets. Really helps define them buns!

 

[gimpwiz]

From reading this thread I thought no back pockets on formal trousers is standard. Though most of the ones seen RTW have either one or two back pockets.

I might go pocketless on the rear from here on out as well. Not very useful. I mean it's a nice bit of visual decoration I guess but why bother? I only use front/side pockets in nice pants anyways. Jeans end up with random crap stuck back there, though.

 

[eddyroxx]

Hello gents, I have a general question I suppose regarding trousers.
Will I get any stretching-out from a 85/15 wool/mohair blend trouser after wearing?
I have an event this month requiring a tuxedo and i've put on some pounds in addition to about a years worth of cycling. The fit is tight around the thighs, especially when sitting.
I was 12 lbs lighter when I was fitted for it, I'm having my tailor pull out every millimeter he possibly can (How close can one get to the overlock stitching?)
I've only worn it twice, will wearing it some more possibly loosen up the fibers a bit?

 

[The Chai]

Hello gents, I have a general question I suppose regarding trousers.
Will I get any stretching-out from a 85/15 wool/mohair blend trouser after wearing?
I have an event this month requiring a tuxedo and i've put on some pounds in addition to about a years worth of cycling. The fit is tight around the thighs, especially when sitting.
I was 12 lbs lighter when I was fitted for it, I'm having my tailor pull out every millimeter he possibly can (How close can one get to the overlock stitching?)
I've only worn it twice, will wearing it some more possibly loosen up the fibers a bit?

No...mohair has no give at all. I had to give away most of my mohair suits.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Could somebody suggest a source for formal suspenders in silk that are a bit more narrow (around 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" wide) compared to the typical 1 1/2" options out there?

 

[cedarlake23]

Apologies if this is not the place to post this question, but I'm a complete black tie novice and am getting married in August. I want to wear a shawl collar tuxedo for it. I want something classically styled like The Armoury's Model 101 but can't stomach paying that much for a garment I'll maybe wear once a year going forward. I've looked online and can't seem to find anything similar. Could anyone offer advice?

Going vintage seems like a great way to get something reasonably priced and classically styled, but I live in DC and can't find any shops that offer it. Does anyone know of a place in NYC that does? Also, if anyone could link a primer on traditional tuxedo do's and don'ts I'd appreciate it. For example, I know it should be a single button with jetted pockets, but stuff like fabric composition and color, back vents, etc. I have no clue about. Thanks in advance!

 

[hpreston]

Apologies if this is not the place to post this question, but I'm a complete black tie novice and am getting married in August. I want to wear a shawl collar tuxedo for it. I want something classically styled like The Armoury's Model 101 but can't stomach paying that much for a garment I'll maybe wear once a year going forward. I've looked online and can't seem to find anything similar. Could anyone offer advice?

Going vintage seems like a great way to get something reasonably priced and classically styled, but I live in DC and can't find any shops that offer it. Does anyone know of a place in NYC that does? Also, if anyone could link a primer on traditional tuxedo do's and don'ts I'd appreciate it. For example, I know it should be a single button with jetted pockets, but stuff like fabric composition and color, back vents, etc. I have no clue about. Thanks in advance!

I agree, almost $4K is pretty steep. So what is your actual budget?

There are a decent amount of options, (MTO, MTM) and you have time…..Spier and Mackay, Proper Cloth on the lower end, No Man Walks Alone or Ring Jacket a bit pricier (but not Model 101 pricey)

As far as the dos and donts, just read through this thread, it really is the best place to find all your answers. If you have specific questions, list them out.

 

[Persephone]

Apologies if this is not the place to post this question, but I'm a complete black tie novice and am getting married in August. I want to wear a shawl collar tuxedo for it. I want something classically styled like The Armoury's Model 101 but can't stomach paying that much for a garment I'll maybe wear once a year going forward. I've looked online and can't seem to find anything similar. Could anyone offer advice?

Going vintage seems like a great way to get something reasonably priced and classically styled, but I live in DC and can't find any shops that offer it. Does anyone know of a place in NYC that does? Also, if anyone could link a primer on traditional tuxedo do's and don'ts I'd appreciate it. For example, I know it should be a single button with jetted pockets, but stuff like fabric composition and color, back vents, etc. I have no clue about. Thanks in advance!

Might you be willing to consider a British tailor? If you want good quality, and reasonable prices, perhaps have a look at Ede & Ravenscroft. They do offer online shopping and international P&P, but if you can combine it with a trip to London, they can certainly provide MTM services or even bespoke. https://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/...ere-tf-sb-shawl-dinner-jacket-m00220281301114
The trousers, shirt, and other accessories will have to be purchased separately, but with a bit of luck you can probably acquire everything for around £1,200 ($1,500).

 

[symphvaria]

Apologies if this is not the place to post this question, but I'm a complete black tie novice and am getting married in August. I want to wear a shawl collar tuxedo for it. I want something classically styled like The Armoury's Model 101 but can't stomach paying that much for a garment I'll maybe wear once a year going forward. I've looked online and can't seem to find anything similar. Could anyone offer advice?

Going vintage seems like a great way to get something reasonably priced and classically styled, but I live in DC and can't find any shops that offer it. Does anyone know of a place in NYC that does? Also, if anyone could link a primer on traditional tuxedo do's and don'ts I'd appreciate it. For example, I know it should be a single button with jetted pockets, but stuff like fabric composition and color, back vents, etc. I have no clue about. Thanks in advance!

You could just go to the Armoury and ask for a Ring Jacket Model 1 in the same configuration as their tuxedo Model 101. Literally the exact same thing but made by Ring Jacket instead of made in Italy.

 

[acconrad]

Apologies if this is not the place to post this question, but I'm a complete black tie novice and am getting married in August. I want to wear a shawl collar tuxedo for it. I want something classically styled like The Armoury's Model 101 but can't stomach paying that much for a garment I'll maybe wear once a year going forward. I've looked online and can't seem to find anything similar. Could anyone offer advice?

Going vintage seems like a great way to get something reasonably priced and classically styled, but I live in DC and can't find any shops that offer it. Does anyone know of a place in NYC that does? Also, if anyone could link a primer on traditional tuxedo do's and don'ts I'd appreciate it. For example, I know it should be a single button with jetted pockets, but stuff like fabric composition and color, back vents, etc. I have no clue about. Thanks in advance!

You've got time between now and August. If you're willing to get your measurements down squarely, you can find something on eBay. That's what I did - twice. I started with a RLPL tux and then ended up trading it in for a DB Kiton that fit me perfectly (literally, I went to the tailor just to have the pants hemmed, he said "I wouldn't touch anything else").

As long as you know your measurements (both sides), you can find fantastic deals that are impeccably styled. It just requires patience and perseverance.

 

[hpreston]

You've got time between now and August. If you're willing to get your measurements down squarely, you can find something on eBay. That's what I did - twice. I started with a RLPL tux and then ended up trading it in for a DB Kiton that fit me perfectly (literally, I went to the tailor just to have the pants hemmed, he said "I wouldn't touch anything else").

As long as you know your measurements (both sides), you can find fantastic deals that are impeccably styled. It just requires patience and perseverance.

Just curious what does “measurements (both sides)” mean??

 

[acconrad]

Just curious what does “measurements (both sides)” mean??

Measure both arms. If one arm is shorter than the other and you get a jacket that is too short for the longer arm the jacket won’t work.

 

[hpreston]

Measure both arms. If one arm is shorter than the other and you get a jacket that is too short for the longer arm the jacket won’t work.

Ah ok, thank you, that is clear.

 

[Cause Moe]

I played a holiday pops matinee concert yesterday, with a local community orchestra. We wear black tie for performances, but for this concert, colored accents are suggested, so I wore red studs, links, socks, and laces, and a dark green bowtie. That evening some old friends and former bandmates were playing Neil Young, Dead, and other jamband fare at a small brewpub/divebar. Needless to say, I was conspicuous. The band was in T-shirts, jeans, knit beanies, etc ... with a guest trumpet player in a tux.

Wearing black tie in the most innapropriate situations can be exactly the right thing to do.