The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Werther Hartmann]

Have a midnight blue tuxedo (almost black) coming, and I ordered a bow tie in matching midnight satin. If I wanted to change it up, I'm assuming black satin bow tie would be ok. How about black velvet? Would it be weird to swap in a dark burgundy or bottle green? Event is black tie but not strictly traditional. thank you

Velvet bow ties are quite common, especially with velvet and other less formal jackets. Do stick to black, it is black tie, after all. Not dark burgundy tie. If you want to incorporate dark burgundy, bottle-green, or other very subdued colours, try some velvet or smocking jackets paired with black trousers.

 

[jrdadbod]

Velvet bow ties are quite common, especially with velvet and other less formal jackets. Do stick to black, it is black tie, after all. Not dark burgundy tie. If you want to incorporate dark burgundy, bottle-green, or other very subdued colours, try some velvet or smocking jackets paired with black trousers.

Sounds great, thank you!

 

[Werther Hartmann]

View attachment 1895181

I always quite liked that look and am thinking of trying it out, once I take delievery on my dress coat, hopefully soon(-ish). I'm only scarred that it might look a bit tacky, as if I was trying to dress up as a character from Peaky Blinders or Bridergton.

 

[Big Phil]

Thoughts on black velvet slippers with a black tuxedo? I’ve heard they’re uncomfortable, but not sure. Was thinking of going with the black Plain Albert slippers from Crockett & Jones. But would also consider other brands / shoe options.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Thoughts on black velvet slippers with a black tuxedo? I’ve heard they’re uncomfortable, but not sure. Was thinking of going with the black Plain Albert slippers from Crockett & Jones. But would also consider other brands / shoe options.

My thoughts are that enough people do it that you won’t look out of place. If it’s a black tie party at a home or in a relaxed environment, I don’t see anything wrong with velvet slippers. However, if the event calls for a more rigid adherence to formality and a more traditional black tie ensemble, go with shiny oxfords or pumps.

 

[archie824]

@gimpwiz I called a few tailors mentioned and either there wasn't a solid availability or they said they didn't do alterations and gave me recommendations. I ended up just going with one of the recommendation provided.

How is this fit now? I feel like this looks and feels great, but wanted to get some expert eyes on it!
I saw some horizontal back wrinkling but it goes away if I'm not looking over my shoulder.

6'1 165lbs 38R Slim @ Spier & Mackay

 

[gimpwiz]

Yeah, there's definitely irony in that to see if your back looks good you look over your shoulder, which makes the back wrinkle but you look much better, man. Way better. Carry on with confidence.

There's always room to improve a bit, but at this point and after all the back-and-forth, I suspect it's probably not worth worrying about. You're gonna look great for your big day.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

@gimpwiz I called a few tailors mentioned and either there wasn't a solid availability or they said they didn't do alterations and gave me recommendations. I ended up just going with one of the recommendation provided.

How is this fit now? I feel like this looks and feels great, but wanted to get some expert eyes on it!
I saw some horizontal back wrinkling but it goes away if I'm not looking over my shoulder.

6'1 165lbs 38R Slim @ Spier & Mackay

I’m no expert but I think that looks very good. I think it was worth the effort to get to where you are now.

I think you mentioned that this is for a wedding, right? If so, do me a favor and don’t let them pin a little tree branch on your lapel like so many wedding florists do, especially in the US. Get yourself a proper boutonnière that threads through the button hole on your lapel. It can even coordinate with your wedding flower colors and, if applicable, your partners bouquet.

 

[Andy57]

Have a midnight blue tuxedo (almost black) coming, and I ordered a bow tie in matching midnight satin. If I wanted to change it up, I'm assuming black satin bow tie would be ok. How about black velvet? Would it be weird to swap in a dark burgundy or bottle green? Event is black tie but not strictly traditional. thank you

If the event is not something like a gala or a very formal function I think you have some latitude. My advice would be, first time wearing your new dinner jacket, to stick with the midnight blue tie or a black satin one. If the facings on the jacket are not black (and I hope they are midnight), then the midnight tie will look good with the jacket.

Once you're comfortable wearing the dinner jacket, you can experiment with other looks. Personally, I don't like bottle green with midnight blue, but burgundy might look good. I think a black jacket gives you a bit more leeway with different color ties, and beige or ivory jackets more leeway still.

Thoughts on black velvet slippers with a black tuxedo? I’ve heard they’re uncomfortable, but not sure. Was thinking of going with the black Plain Albert slippers from Crockett & Jones. But would also consider other brands / shoe options.

Once again, if the event is not formal, then velvet slippers are fine. Like any shoe, some makes will be more comfortable for your feet than others. For example, I've found Stubbs and Wooten to be rather narrow and hence less comfortable than some others. I like Mount Street Shoe Company, which fit me much better.

 

[archie824]

I’m no expert but I think that looks very good. I think it was worth the effort to get to where you are now.

I think you mentioned that this is for a wedding, right? If so, do me a favor and don’t let them pin a little tree branch on your lapel like so many wedding florists do, especially in the US. Get yourself a proper boutonnière that threads through the button hole on your lapel. It can even coordinate with your wedding flower colors and, if applicable, your partners bouquet.

View attachment 1937703

Are they not actual flowers? Where is a good place to get one?

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Are they not actual flowers? Where is a good place to get one?

You can find a silk boutonnière from many shops that sell menswear items. Or, have your florist prepare something similar from a real flower. Those mini-bouquets that florists often pin to grooms seem to engulf the lapel and look a bit tacky to me. They draw the eye away from your face and sometimes weigh the lapel down. You see them all over Pinterest and florist websites.

 

[brax]

My wife and I will be attending a wedding in Lake Como during the first week of September. It is a destination wedding which will be attended exclusively by Americans (present company excluded). It will be Black Tie beginning at 5:00. Dusk will be around 8:30. Average lows will be 62 degrees and average highs will be 72 degrees. My options:

1. Wear my Despos midnight blue SBPL dinner jacket that adheres to all of the rules.

2. Wear my Zegna black OTR tuxedo that deviates slightly from the rules (vest uses different fabric) and fits well but is certainly not at Despos level.

3. Commission a double vested ivory shawl lapel jacket (with black tuxedo trousers of course).

Thoughts?

 

[Faux Brummell]

My wife and I will be attending a wedding in Lake Como during the first week of September. It is a destination wedding which will be attended exclusively by Americans (present company excluded). It will be Black Tie beginning at 5:00. Dusk will be around 8:30. Average lows will be 62 degrees and average highs will be 72 degrees. My options:

1. Wear my Despos midnight blue SBPL dinner jacket that adheres to all of the rules.

2. Wear my Zegna black OTR tuxedo that deviates slightly from the rules (vest uses different fabric) and fits well but is certainly not at Despos level.

3. Commission a double vested ivory shawl lapel jacket (with black tuxedo trousers of course).

Thoughts?

If you’ve got an excuse to get a double-breasted ivory shawl jacket, take advantage of the opportunity!

 

[Texasmade]

My wife and I will be attending a wedding in Lake Como during the first week of September. It is a destination wedding which will be attended exclusively by Americans (present company excluded). It will be Black Tie beginning at 5:00. Dusk will be around 8:30. Average lows will be 62 degrees and average highs will be 72 degrees. My options:

1. Wear my Despos midnight blue SBPL dinner jacket that adheres to all of the rules.

2. Wear my Zegna black OTR tuxedo that deviates slightly from the rules (vest uses different fabric) and fits well but is certainly not at Despos level.

3. Commission a double vested ivory shawl lapel jacket (with black tuxedo trousers of course).

Thoughts?

Option 3 obviously. Any chance to commission new stuff, you have to take it.

 

[jonathanS]

My wife and I will be attending a wedding in Lake Como during the first week of September. It is a destination wedding which will be attended exclusively by Americans (present company excluded). It will be Black Tie beginning at 5:00. Dusk will be around 8:30. Average lows will be 62 degrees and average highs will be 72 degrees. My options:

1. Wear my Despos midnight blue SBPL dinner jacket that adheres to all of the rules.

2. Wear my Zegna black OTR tuxedo that deviates slightly from the rules (vest uses different fabric) and fits well but is certainly not at Despos level.

3. Commission a double vested ivory shawl lapel jacket (with black tuxedo trousers of course).

Thoughts?

Option 3, but we are bad influences & we aren’t paying the bill / dont have to deal with a wife that sees money disappear from the bank account.