The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[poorsod]



I just got my tuxedo back from my tailor as I work on getting together my black-tie rig.

I have a question: the trousers do not, of course, have belt loops, nor do they have side-tabs or buttons for braces.

I would prefer to get buttoned braces (would these be suitable?) so I will have to have buttons added to the trousers. I've done a bit of reading on the topic and am thinking that I'd like the front attachment points to be inside the waistband (in case they'd peek out below my cummerbund if they were fixed outside) and the rear attachment point outside, for comfort when sitting.

Your guidance and experience would be greatly appreciated.

I don't like those Brooks braces because the rounded leather attachment for the back buttons bite into back when sitting. I prefer the flat attachment of the Thurston braces such as here http://thearmoury.com/en/artisans/albert-thurston

The button placement inside or outside the waistband isn't an issue for me.

 

[TheMangelo]

It should work either way. Really comes down to preference. Though, if you're worried about them peeking or under your cummerbund, you are probably playing it very close to the wire with your proportions.

I will post photos later, but I may have the problem of the trousers being slightly lower rise than I'd like, or perhaps my cummerbund not being as wide as it could be. Hence my concern.

 

[TheMangelo]

I don't like those Brooks braces because the rounded leather attachment for the back buttons bite into back when sitting. I prefer the flat attachment of the Thurston braces such as here http://thearmoury.com/en/artisans/albert-thurston

The button placement inside or outside the waistband isn't an issue for me.

Thank you for the recommendation!

 

[deadAngle]

As a suggestion, position the front buttons in line with both the pant crease and side seam and space the rear buttons the same amount as one set of front buttons. This spreads the force out over a broader area and helps to keep the straps in the right position. I've had tailors who don't understand how much more comfortable this is and would space them a scant 1.5" apart not really centred on anything.

 

[TheMangelo]

[…] position the front buttons in line with both the pant crease and side seam […]

Could you elaborate on the position a bit more?

My thoughts were simply to centre the brace itself over the crease in the trousers, spacing the buttons far enough apart to account for the natural V-shape of the button-hole extensions.

 

[Tried and True]



My thoughts were simply to centre the brace itself over the crease in the trousers, spacing the buttons far enough apart to account for the natural V-shape of the button-hole extensions.

Your method will produce an unsatisfactory result.

Inside button placement is over the crease. Outside button placement is forward of the side seam, the distance dictated by waist size. A bigger waist will require a greater distance between buttons.

 

[TheMangelo]



Your method will produce an unsatisfactory result.

Inside button placement is over the crease. Outside button placement is forward of the side seam, the distance dictated by waist size. A bigger waist will require a greater distance between buttons.

Thank you!

My tailor will be handling this, at any rate, so I'm not too concerned with the details—just curious.

 

[marcodalondra]

Apparently by Lanvin.... I would not have let him in!

 

[Mr Knightley]

Quote:
They both look extremely uncomfortable in their clothes....

 

[Cleav]

and with good reason Mr K

 

[lwmarti]

Pushing the limits of black tie to new levels: the seersucker tuxedo from J. Crew. Really.



https://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/suiting/PRD~A0526/A0526.jsp

 

[archibaldleach]

^ Truly terrible.

 

[Van Veen]

The new Brooks Brothers catalog black tie styling is awful.

 

[ImTheGroom]

Pushing the limits of black tie to new levels: the seersucker tuxedo from J. Crew. Really.

I think I'll wear it to eat chocolate dipped eggplant for breakfast. I also think we'll then go out to see a matinée where Rodney Dangerfield plays Macbeth.

 

[Wayward]



Pushing the limits of black tie to new levels: the seersucker tuxedo from J. Crew. Really.

Product description reads:

This warm-weather take on the classic tuxedo is unlike anything we've done before. Made from a special black-on-black seersucker we found at a renowned Japanese mill, it's equal parts Cape Cod and downtown NYC. It's fully lined to give it the same structure and shape as traditional tuxes and is finished with a classic satin peak lapel. The result? An elevated formal look that we're sure nobody else will have this summer.

I'm also sure there's a reason why nobody else will have it.