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The Fat Duck
I'm sure there are many thoughts being thrown around on this restaurant - some on here would likely dismiss it entirely as a WD-style circle jerk. I personally had my own skepticism. After all, 3 star dining is something I've had quite a few times in the past, could they really be outdone? The answer for me was a resounding yes - The Fat Duck outclassed these restaurants and ended up being one of the most incredible dining experiences of my life.
The distinguishing factor wasn't just the quality of cooking - I'd say a good number of dishes were on par in quality to a place like Daniel or Robuchon. Rather, it was the "show" of senses and memory that Heston is trying to capture that really puts this restaurant in a special place. You'd be amazed at where your mind wanders when feeling the effects of the superb wine coupled with a tray of perfect sea food that is set to mimic looking like the beach and then dawning headphones that play the sounds of gentle waves. I'm sure some here would pass it off as stupid, and they may very well be right. I probably did look stupid. But I didn't care, my mind was focused on being someplace else at the time.
The environment is simply magnificent, not in stately grandeur, but rather in the subtle communication between tables. It's true this would also look stupid at any other place, and at first it is a little weird. I knew the couple next to us was looking at our table as we each popped the nitro poached green tea and lime mousse. But i'll be damned if I wasn't staring at the table next to us as they began the process. We ended up all having small chat with the 3 tables relatively close to us, it was really wonderful.
Now, time for some pictures and details.
The restaurant isn't exactly in London. In fact, it's very much not in London, it'll take you 45 minutes to reach town even by train. And you'll pass your fair share of sticks to get there:
The restaurant is hard to find, too. It has a tiny little sign in a small building most would otherwise dismiss. Our driver didn't have a problem, fortunately, and we got there ready to eat.
I started with some Champagne, of course. It was a magnificent Tattinger Comtes de Champagne, 1998 (blanc de blanc). Normally Tattinger is not the first bottle I reach for, but this wine was magnificent. Racy and bright acidity coupled with a smooth oakiness and brilliant balance. The sommelier mentioned it was one of the stars of the 1998 vintage, and I can certainly recommend it without hesitation.
The menu and wine tasting list is as follows, I'll include a picture where I have one:
LIME GROVE
Nitro Poached Green Tea and Lime Mousse - this dish served as the palate cleanser with the brisk rush of tart from the lime. Delicious.
RED CABBAGE GAZPACHO
Pommery Grain Mustard Ice Cream
JELLY OF QUAIL, CRAYFISH CREAM
Chicken Liver Parfait, Oak Moss and Truffle Toast - this is the classic "oak dish" with the dramatic moss cube that fogged and covered the table in a dark mist and oak scents for a few moments. Really fascinating stuff that was a joy to eat.
2002 Peter Lehman Riesling Reserve, Edna Valley Australia - awesome balance of that classic old world riesling petrol but with a hint of new world fruit and concentration. Perfect pairing.
SNAIL PORRIDGE
Jabugo Ham, Shaved Fennel - one of the best dishes I have had at any restaurant. Simply superb.
The wine was 2006 Collio Bianco, Klin, Primosic from Italy's Friuli region. The slight cotton candy nuance and firm structure made this a really interesting pairing.
ROAST FOIE GRAS
Rhubarb, Braised Konbu and Crab Biscuit - lol @ Pio foie.
2008 Vouvray, Abbaye de Marmoutier, Vigneau-Chevreau
MOCK TURTLE SOUP (c.1850)
"Mad Hatter Tea" - creative, weird, showy - and damn delicious.
"SOUND OF THE SEA"
DaiGinjo Masumi Nagano Saki
SALMON POACHED IN LIQUORICE
Artichokes, Vanilla Mayonnaise, Golden Trout Roe and Manni Olive Oil
2000 Quinta de Leda, Casa Ferreirinha, Duoro Valley Portugal - and oak bomb. But that oaky and vanilla is what played so well with the vanilla mayo and integrated wonderfully with the dish. Compliments to the sommelier for pulling it off.
POWDERED ANJOU PIGEON (c.1720)
Blood Pudding and Confit of Umbles
2004 Val Di Cornia Suvereto, Olpaio, Rubbia al Colle from Tuscany - Val Di Cornia Suvereto is the little known Tuscan DOC. The blend can be half cab while this particular wine had a good bit of merlot according to the somm. And the result was spectacular, this was perhaps my favorite wine of the night. It had that deep and rustic Tuscan flair that I love so much and it paired so perfectly with the savory pidgeon and dense blood pudding. He refilled my glass with this one. Twice. And once was before the entree even arrived.
HOT & ICED TEA - this one messes with you, it really is half hot and half cold.
MACERATED STRAWBERRIES
Olive Oil Biscuit, Chamomile & Coriander
Jelly & Ice Cream Cornet
2007 Grasevina Izborna Berba Prosusenith Bobica, Krathaker, Kutjevo, Slavonija (Croatia). This wine was very similar to a TBA riesling and had gorgeous concentration of flavors. It is hard to find and made in such small numbers so this was a real treat.
THE "BFG"
Kirsch Ice Cream and the smell of the Black Forest
2008 Alella, Dolc Mataro, Alta Alella, Catalunia Spain - a very interesting and sweet red wine that was a great match with the dense yet fruity and multi-layered cake.
Then a wonderful cheese cart. We picked a variety of stuff and each was excellent.
WHISK(E)Y WINE GUMS
"LIKE A KID IN A SWEET SHOP"
Aerated Chocolate with Mandarin Jelly
Coconut Baccy - coconut infused with an aroma of black cavendish tobacco
Apple Pie caramel with an edible wrapper
The queen of hearts - which chocolate with a thin layer of tart fruit
After that incredible food, we decided to take our newly expanded guts for walk around town. It's really a beautiful place and a pleasure to stroll. Some of the buildings are incredibly old and built when people were a wee bit shorter:
What an experience. If you get the chance, you all MUST eat at the Fat Duck. Even the skeptics.
I'm sure there are many thoughts being thrown around on this restaurant - some on here would likely dismiss it entirely as a WD-style circle jerk. I personally had my own skepticism. After all, 3 star dining is something I've had quite a few times in the past, could they really be outdone? The answer for me was a resounding yes - The Fat Duck outclassed these restaurants and ended up being one of the most incredible dining experiences of my life.
The distinguishing factor wasn't just the quality of cooking - I'd say a good number of dishes were on par in quality to a place like Daniel or Robuchon. Rather, it was the "show" of senses and memory that Heston is trying to capture that really puts this restaurant in a special place. You'd be amazed at where your mind wanders when feeling the effects of the superb wine coupled with a tray of perfect sea food that is set to mimic looking like the beach and then dawning headphones that play the sounds of gentle waves. I'm sure some here would pass it off as stupid, and they may very well be right. I probably did look stupid. But I didn't care, my mind was focused on being someplace else at the time.
The environment is simply magnificent, not in stately grandeur, but rather in the subtle communication between tables. It's true this would also look stupid at any other place, and at first it is a little weird. I knew the couple next to us was looking at our table as we each popped the nitro poached green tea and lime mousse. But i'll be damned if I wasn't staring at the table next to us as they began the process. We ended up all having small chat with the 3 tables relatively close to us, it was really wonderful.
Now, time for some pictures and details.
The restaurant isn't exactly in London. In fact, it's very much not in London, it'll take you 45 minutes to reach town even by train. And you'll pass your fair share of sticks to get there:
The restaurant is hard to find, too. It has a tiny little sign in a small building most would otherwise dismiss. Our driver didn't have a problem, fortunately, and we got there ready to eat.
I started with some Champagne, of course. It was a magnificent Tattinger Comtes de Champagne, 1998 (blanc de blanc). Normally Tattinger is not the first bottle I reach for, but this wine was magnificent. Racy and bright acidity coupled with a smooth oakiness and brilliant balance. The sommelier mentioned it was one of the stars of the 1998 vintage, and I can certainly recommend it without hesitation.
The menu and wine tasting list is as follows, I'll include a picture where I have one:
LIME GROVE
Nitro Poached Green Tea and Lime Mousse - this dish served as the palate cleanser with the brisk rush of tart from the lime. Delicious.
RED CABBAGE GAZPACHO
Pommery Grain Mustard Ice Cream
JELLY OF QUAIL, CRAYFISH CREAM
Chicken Liver Parfait, Oak Moss and Truffle Toast - this is the classic "oak dish" with the dramatic moss cube that fogged and covered the table in a dark mist and oak scents for a few moments. Really fascinating stuff that was a joy to eat.
2002 Peter Lehman Riesling Reserve, Edna Valley Australia - awesome balance of that classic old world riesling petrol but with a hint of new world fruit and concentration. Perfect pairing.
SNAIL PORRIDGE
Jabugo Ham, Shaved Fennel - one of the best dishes I have had at any restaurant. Simply superb.
The wine was 2006 Collio Bianco, Klin, Primosic from Italy's Friuli region. The slight cotton candy nuance and firm structure made this a really interesting pairing.
ROAST FOIE GRAS
Rhubarb, Braised Konbu and Crab Biscuit - lol @ Pio foie.
2008 Vouvray, Abbaye de Marmoutier, Vigneau-Chevreau
MOCK TURTLE SOUP (c.1850)
"Mad Hatter Tea" - creative, weird, showy - and damn delicious.
"SOUND OF THE SEA"
DaiGinjo Masumi Nagano Saki
SALMON POACHED IN LIQUORICE
Artichokes, Vanilla Mayonnaise, Golden Trout Roe and Manni Olive Oil
2000 Quinta de Leda, Casa Ferreirinha, Duoro Valley Portugal - and oak bomb. But that oaky and vanilla is what played so well with the vanilla mayo and integrated wonderfully with the dish. Compliments to the sommelier for pulling it off.
POWDERED ANJOU PIGEON (c.1720)
Blood Pudding and Confit of Umbles
2004 Val Di Cornia Suvereto, Olpaio, Rubbia al Colle from Tuscany - Val Di Cornia Suvereto is the little known Tuscan DOC. The blend can be half cab while this particular wine had a good bit of merlot according to the somm. And the result was spectacular, this was perhaps my favorite wine of the night. It had that deep and rustic Tuscan flair that I love so much and it paired so perfectly with the savory pidgeon and dense blood pudding. He refilled my glass with this one. Twice. And once was before the entree even arrived.
HOT & ICED TEA - this one messes with you, it really is half hot and half cold.
MACERATED STRAWBERRIES
Olive Oil Biscuit, Chamomile & Coriander
Jelly & Ice Cream Cornet
2007 Grasevina Izborna Berba Prosusenith Bobica, Krathaker, Kutjevo, Slavonija (Croatia). This wine was very similar to a TBA riesling and had gorgeous concentration of flavors. It is hard to find and made in such small numbers so this was a real treat.
THE "BFG"
Kirsch Ice Cream and the smell of the Black Forest
2008 Alella, Dolc Mataro, Alta Alella, Catalunia Spain - a very interesting and sweet red wine that was a great match with the dense yet fruity and multi-layered cake.
Then a wonderful cheese cart. We picked a variety of stuff and each was excellent.
WHISK(E)Y WINE GUMS
"LIKE A KID IN A SWEET SHOP"
Aerated Chocolate with Mandarin Jelly
Coconut Baccy - coconut infused with an aroma of black cavendish tobacco
Apple Pie caramel with an edible wrapper
The queen of hearts - which chocolate with a thin layer of tart fruit
After that incredible food, we decided to take our newly expanded guts for walk around town. It's really a beautiful place and a pleasure to stroll. Some of the buildings are incredibly old and built when people were a wee bit shorter:
What an experience. If you get the chance, you all MUST eat at the Fat Duck. Even the skeptics.
