The Official Temple of Jawnz Thread

[wagthesam]

He might have also used a flash. Also under incadescent lighting, it is very easy to show the undershirt.

TOJ is definately not that sheer normally. I don't have one but I can say this with certainty. It would be pittiful for a regular oxford weave shirt to be sheer.

 

[impolyt_one]

Originally Posted by Smahatma

The apparent opacity is because of the high contrast between the dudes dark skin and the white undershirt. If he didn't wear an undershirt, or wore a less contrasting-to-his-skin color undershirt (like heather grey or brown crewneck t-shirt), you wouldn't notice.

word up to black nipples


Really though, if you stack white fabric upon white fabric, that part will show as more opaque white than the layers that do not, hence the guy with the white OCBD with a wifebeater on has the white beater showing through. Woven fabric is not 100% solid and nor do cameras show it that way because of contrast.

 

[Arethusa]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

I cant compare the FQHH with the calf, but it is what I'd asked for - a jacket with a modern cut, but with the straightup toughness of a real motorcycle jacket. I like heft in my outerwear. I wear Woolrich Woolen Mills and Krane jackets, both of which are stylish but can stand up to field testing, and this is no different. I'm no goth ninja. The only goth ninja I've met that could really probably do ninja like damage is Kunk, and he is more like Hulk ninja. If you would rather be a Russian Truck Driver (tm - and that's a compliment, aegus) who could take out goth ninjas like me taking out the garbage on Friday mornings (i.e. fast, because the truck comes at 7:30, and I never remember to take it out the night before) then this jacket is for you. On the other hand, I could see someone like Fuuma (er, I think someone called him an art *****t) could pull one of these off as well, to a much different effect.
But how would you compare your jacket to calf, specifically? It's difference between calf and fqhh that I'm kind of fuzzy on, really (in that I know both are supposed to be tough and considerably tougher than lamb, but I'm not sure how to distinguish one from the other). Also, what are the actual s2s and p2p measurements on your jacket? Just curious.

 

[swooc]

one smells like horse and the other cow

.

 

[aeglus]

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

word up to black nipples


Really though, if you stack white fabric upon white fabric, that part will show as more opaque white than the layers that do not, hence the guy with the white OCBD with a wifebeater on has the white beater showing through. Woven fabric is not 100% solid and nor do cameras show it that way because of contrast.

Grey's the best undershirt/underwear color for whites. It's why I wear grey with my white jeans, doesn't show at all

 

[Razele]

Drew said that V neck T's are in the works after the white oxford.

I am so happy. Will probably buy like 10.

Still want my horse hide moto as well, gotta move some stuff first.

 

[impolyt_one]

Originally Posted by Arethusa

But how would you compare your jacket to calf, specifically? It's difference between calf and fqhh that I'm kind of fuzzy on, really (in that I know both are supposed to be tough and considerably tougher than lamb, but I'm not sure how to distinguish one from the other).

Also, what are the actual s2s and p2p measurements on your jacket? Just curious.

Calf (and there are many kinds of calf, so this only applies to the black calf intended for motorcycle jackets that we use on ours): waxy, slight sheen, warmish hand feel because of the surface wax (lamb feels this way too because of the lanolin)... heavy and thick, but soft. Still pretty tough too. One jacket weighs about 5-6 lbs, so it's heavy.

FQHH (we don't have much more of this, maybe one or two jacket's worth in the Japanese-tanned struck-through black, and various colors in Japanese-tanned browns and tans and reddish browns): cold hand feel, matte appearance, tight grain appearance, dry looking without looking undernourished or damaged. We shave it to a thinner 1mm thickness (some garment leathers go up to like 1.5, but unless it's a soft leather like lamb or really soft calf, the machine can't handle it) so it's not about thickness, but it's still very heavy and substantial. One jacket probably weighs about 5 lbs in this too.
FQHH comes with occasional nicks and small scars and wrinkles in it that calf usually doesn't have; horses are prone to more cuts and scrapes through their lifetime than a calf (which don't get a lot done in life before they get sent in for slaughter)... horsehides just all tend to have scarring and nicks. If you've seen Visvim's horsehide jackets, they are embracing this and using the scars in the jacket on purpose as a feature of the jacket it seems. I am not going that far, but yeah occasionally a nick or two is there on a FQHH jacket.

If a jacket were to be made in the DR style, it'd weigh more than the Moto because there are sleeve back gusset piecings (a DR has 7 pieces on the back and can be made with 9 if requested, and the Moto has the simpler 4-panel back), the belt and epaulets, and doubled lapels on a DR that a Moto doesn't have, so it'd probably be another pound or two more than Fok's jacket, which weighed almost 3kgs packed up, if I remember from my trip to the post office.

Fok's jacket was 18" s2s and 20" p2p if I recall, maybe 20.5 p2p. Fok and I talked a long time about sizing and I ended up taking a huge amalgamation of size figures he gave me, mixed them with some standards, and then consulted dizzhizz, who is about the same size as fok as well, and we ended up with what you saw in Fok's fit pic. I am really happy about the outcome of that. It looks really good on Fok.

 

[impolyt_one]

Originally Posted by Razele

Drew said that V neck T's are in the works after the white oxford.

I am so happy. Will probably buy like 10.

Still want my horse hide moto as well, gotta move some stuff first.

I'm gonna change shirt factories. I'm so pissed about seeing redX's frayed stitching on his white shirt, and we caught a bunch of problems already and sent them back for remaking too. The shirts they finally get right and send over to me are good, but it's the fact that they ***** and moan about all of our requests and just don't seem to like doing things the right way, so we'll be taking our business to a new place. Single needle tailoring, and hand sewn buttons, those were real sticking points for them.


Meanwhile, I do want to make a white basic tee in time for summer, I need white tees, lol. V neck with a nice medium-deep neckline, nothing shallow and silly looking like a Muji or Uniqlo. I am thinking about taking the construction on the Toj basic white tees to a level not done by anyone (think single needle tailoring again), it will be the ultimate white V neck tee shirt.

 

[impolyt_one]

Speakinf of shirts: I pulled together what I wanted to use in the Toj dress shirts yesterday. I have researched what I wanted to about dress shirts and figured out what I can do with them, and am gonna open up the Toj MTM dress shirts soon. I'll have a system in place for measuring for those when we start them.

Same stuff as you would normally expect though; single needle, really thick MOP buttons (in a different style from the OCBD buttons), good fabric, nice fit, nice design details. I might offer 2 or 3 variations on cuffs and collars (ie stock open, BD, spread collars, and barrel or turnback cuffs) as it is an order-made shirt service, and shirts are to be made one by one (by yet another new workshop)

 

[hurhur]

crosspost from sufu

Just got my olive green bagpack in the mail today. The moment i took off the packaging, the smell of the suede is just awesome. The suede is very tough and the stitching looks unbreakable. Here are some fit pics. Pardon my lousy ass camera for not being able to capture the full beauty of the suede. but here's the rough idea. I'm probably gonna wear the bag how it came. no protection whatsoever. I have a feeling it will turn out great with some wear.

Side

Back

The bag

Zipper

Hardware

Toj ftw

 

[pronxs]

re: the suede/leather zip wallet

is it supposed to be left in the jeans pocket while sitting down or should we treat it with care?
also i saw some red/maroon zip wallet from sufu?

 

[aeglus]

Originally Posted by pronxs

re: the suede/leather zip wallet

is it supposed to be left in the jeans pocket while sitting down or should we treat it with care?
also i saw some red/maroon zip wallet from sufu?

they're wallets, use some common sense

 

[Nil]

Originally Posted by impolyt_one

Meanwhile, I do want to make a white basic tee in time for summer, I need white tees, lol. V neck with a nice medium-deep neckline, nothing shallow and silly looking like a Muji or Uniqlo. I am thinking about taking the construction on the Toj basic white tees to a level not done by anyone (think single needle tailoring again), it will be the ultimate white V neck tee shirt.

YES! Hanes work decent for my purposes but it'd be nice to have something in ultra luxe fabrics.

 

[pronxs]

Originally Posted by aeglus

they're wallets, use some common sense

im asking will they look better beaten up like those tanner/unlucky leather wallets or what.

chill man.

 

[driveslowk]

work faster drew

will buy pants, shirts, v-neck