**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

[tomyamsoup]

Looks to me like the top finish has been stripped off. I have never had that kind of problem with Pate de Luxe but I'm not saying it couldn't happen. There's leathers and then there's leathers.

Most of the time we see this when excessive moisture is applied too soon in the bulling process--the top coat is thin, the moisture seeps through to the grain, and then the finish comes off. In such cases, there is no remedy short of stripping the finish off the entire shoe and re-polishing.

@Munky ...thanks for the 'invite'. I don't follow this thread religiously, so it was an accident I saw this. If you really want to get my attention, 'mention' me...as in @myusername.

@DWFII Thanks for your input! I had actually just posted above saying that I'm quite sure this is what happened. I might just try to dye them myself as I don't think I can find a professional locally who could do it for a reasonable price. What products do you recommend for this?

 

[DWFII]

Thanks for your input! I had actually just posted above saying that I'm quite sure this is what happened. I might just try to dye them myself as I don't think I can find a professional locally who could do it for a reasonable price. What products do you recommend for this?

I saw that...however the Saphir High Shine would probably not have been the culprit all by itself.

Again, if the top coat is thin and too much spit, water, alcohol is applied when bulling (spit shining) it will seep past the top coat and make the leather underneath swell up. This loosens the top coat (which is fundamentally just a paint job) as surely as painting a balloon with tempura and then inflating it.

As far as what I would recommend for dying (I assume that's what you mean), I can't give you much advice in that regard. I try not to have to do this kind of thing. That said, any alcohol based dye will work if you can get the colour you need. But make no mistake, those are penetrating dyes and will not yield the same results as the leather displayed originally. For that you need a spray rig, booth, and the proper dyes/paints--usually acrylic. And the leather needs to be pristine clean and free of all oils to assure proper adhesion.

If you purchase the top coat dyes from a dedicated 'house', they will often offer a 'conditioner' that prepares the leather to receive the acrylic...which can be sprayed on, as well. Don't ignore this step.

All that said, trying to replicate a finish like that is problematic and such home jobs...or even jobs done in a reputable shoe repair shop...tend to end up looking rather 'plastic.' Probably better to just go with a darker penetrating dye (after you've stripped off the top coat with acetone) and try to achieve a patina or 'depth' with polishes and waxes.

 

[tomyamsoup]

I saw that...however the Saphir High Shine would probably not have been the culprit all by itself.

Again, if the top coat is thin and too much spit, water, alcohol is applied when bulling (spit shining) it will seep past the top coat and make the leather underneath swell up. This loosens the top coat (which is fundamentally just a paint job) as surely as painting a balloon with tempura and then inflating it.

As far as what I would recommend for dying (I assume that's what you mean), I can't give you much advice in that regard. I try not to have to do this kind of thing. That said, any alcohol based dye will work if you can get the colour you need. But make no mistake, those are penetrating dyes and will not yield the same results as the leather displayed originally. For that you need a spray rig, booth, and the proper dyes/paints--usually acrylic. And the leather needs to be pristine clean and free of all oils to assure proper adhesion.

If you purchase the top coat dyes from a dedicated 'house', they will often offer a 'conditioner' that prepares the leather to receive the acrylic...which can be sprayed on, as well. Don't ignore this step.

All that said, trying to replicate a finish like that is problematic and such home jobs...or even jobs done in a reputable shoe repair shop...tend to end up looking rather 'plastic.' Probably better to just go with a darker penetrating dye (after you've stripped off the top coat with acetone) and try to achieve a patina or 'depth' with polishes and waxes.

Agreed, I've never had this problem with other shoes so far. In fact the right shoe looks just fine. I've contacted TLB Mallorca to see if they can offer a solution. Otherwise, I'll probably just try to strip the finish and dye the whole shoe black - beats having an unwearable pair of shoes. I've also just noticed that the heel area is quite uneven as seen in the photo. Not very impressed and will probably think twice before buying their shoes again unfortunately.

 

[LLEE]

If I may suggest, don’t be be so tempted to settle on black just because. If you are reasonably patient, and willing to at least try, there’s no reason you should just settle on black because.
I’ve personally dyed a few pairs with nothing more than a cheap bottle of dye, some alcohol, and a rag (photos of the last two just for reference). I’m sure if you do follow DWF’s advice and use an alcohol based light brown (light coats), you’ll be happy with the result.

 

[ShoeWho]

Regarding the dangers of Saphir Mirror Gloss, the advice on the Saphir site says that Mirror Gloss does not clean or hydrate or nourish leather. So it should only be used after cream or polish. It contains hard waxes and solvents such as turpentine. https://www.valmour.com/polish-mirror-gloss-saphir-medaille-dor.html file:///C:/Users/Me/Downloads/Cirage%20MIRROR%20GLOSS%20Saphir%20M%C3%A9daille%20d'Or.pdf

 

[Munky]

If I may suggest, don’t be be so tempted to settle on black just because. If you are reasonably patient, and willing to at least try, there’s no reason you should just settle on black because.
I’ve personally dyed a few pairs with nothing more than a cheap bottle of dye, some alcohol, and a rag (photos of the last two just for reference). I’m sure if you do follow DWF’s advice and use an alcohol based light brown (light coats), you’ll be happy with the result.

View attachment 1155830

View attachment 1155831

Your blue shoes are incredible! Thank you for sharing the photo. Yours, Munky

 

[Munky]

Agreed, I've never had this problem with other shoes so far. In fact the right shoe looks just fine. I've contacted TLB Mallorca to see if they can offer a solution. Otherwise, I'll probably just try to strip the finish and dye the whole shoe black - beats having an unwearable pair of shoes. I've also just noticed that the heel area is quite uneven as seen in the photo. Not very impressed and will probably think twice before buying their shoes again unfortunately. View attachment 1155793

Just one other thought on your TLB shoes. I looked at their website and many of their shoes seem to be hand painted. This is often done over crust leather. It is a long shot but I wonder if you have removed some of the painting and have caused some sort of reaction below this. The advice I have been given on looking after crust leather is to be very conservative about what you put on them and never to use renovating creams. I can't know if your shoes are crust, nor if they were hand painted. I just thought I would throw it into the mix and that you are able to bring them back to life. If in any doubt, follow DW's advice on these things. He is the ultimate expert and knows more about these things than any of us. Yours, Munky.

 

[aj2603]

i wanted to get some opinion of the community on this: I saw a couple of videos of The Brighton Gentleman (@bespokeaddict) and he says that its a good idea to apply some leather conditioner to the inside/leather lining of the shoe, since it is a leather and need nourishment. Thoughts ?

PS. I never did that before, but i think i might start

 

[Lumaca]

i wanted to get some opinion of the community on this: I saw a couple of videos of The Brighton Gentleman (@bespokeaddict) and he says that its a good idea to apply some leather conditioner to the inside/leather lining of the shoe, since it is a leather and need nourishment. Thoughts ?

PS. I never did that before, but i think i might start

It makes sense for his shoes because they are pre-war, and probably have been sitting in a closet for as long as I most of us are alive!

Most regularly worn shoes, I would think get quite a lot of moisture in the lining part from the wearer as well. Not an expert but that's just my logic soeaking.

 

[aj2603]

It makes sense for his shoes because they are pre-war, and probably have been sitting in a closet for as long as I most of us are alive!

Most regularly worn shoes, I would think get quite a lot of moisture in the lining part from the wearer as well. Not an expert but that's just my logic soeaking.

I agree. Those shoes r very old. But leather needs more than just moisture to stay soft and intact. The basic principle of conditioners is that along with moisture also provides some oils and other nourishment. For me it makes sense every now and then to introduce some conditioner to keep it’s soft and nourished

 

[j ingevaldsson]

i wanted to get some opinion of the community on this: I saw a couple of videos of The Brighton Gentleman (@bespokeaddict) and he says that its a good idea to apply some leather conditioner to the inside/leather lining of the shoe, since it is a leather and need nourishment. Thoughts ?

PS. I never did that before, but i think i might start

Yes, it’s a good idea. All leather needs to be treated to hold up as good as it has the possibility to do (that goes for belts, bags, wallets, watch straps etc as well). I wrote a post about the subject here on my blog a while ago.

 

[aj2603]

Yes, it’s a good idea. All leather needs to be treated to hold up as good as it has the possibility to do (that goes for belts, bags, wallets, watch straps etc as well). I wrote a post about the subject here on my blog a while ago.

Thank you. That's a very well written article

 

[4r36]

Hi guys,

Two weeks ago I told you about my problem with a new pair of Santoni double monk. After getting caught in the rain, the leather suffered a raising all over the upper. I contacted Santoni's customer care, who replied that they are not responsible for any shoes sold by a retailer. So I sent an email to the latter, who simply said that it was my fault getting caught in the rain.

Unfortunately, I've not been very lucky recently with my shoes and today I need to ask again your help. This time the problem regards a pair of Antonio Meccariello. I bought them almost a month ago from Yeossal. When they arrived, the shoes looked flawless under artificial light. So I thought everything was fine and I wore them for the first time today. Here a couple of pictures under natural light:

As you can see, on my left shoe a darker band surrounds the captoe. In the picture it doesn't look too bad, but in reality it's very antiaesthetic. It really looks like there is a stain on the shoe. Is there something I can do?

Thank you very much for your help!

 

[ShoeWho]

I bought some '60s French army boots - roughout uppers with rubber soles. They had light use when they were issued and were put in storage for decades. They seem in remarkably good condition. The uppers are very supple, the soles are flexible. I think the uppers have been treated with wax in the past. (I read somewhere that the French army does that.) I'm planning to clean them, remove the creases and maybe dye them. I'm wondering whether I should give them some moisturising nourishment. Maybe some silicone for the soles, but what about the uppers? There don't seem to be any products for moisturising of roughout/suede/nubuck. Is that because they get enough moisture from the air?

 

[aj2603]

Hi guys,

Two weeks ago I told you about my problem with a new pair of Santoni double monk. After getting caught in the rain, the leather suffered a raising all over the upper. I contacted Santoni's customer care, who replied that they are not responsible for any shoes sold by a retailer. So I sent an email to the latter, who simply said that it was my fault getting caught in the rain.

Unfortunately, I've not been very lucky recently with my shoes and today I need to ask again your help. This time the problem regards a pair of Antonio Meccariello. I bought them almost a month ago from Yeossal. When they arrived, the shoes looked flawless under artificial light. So I thought everything was fine and I wore them for the first time today. Here a couple of pictures under natural light:

View attachment 1156542

As you can see, on my left shoe a darker band surrounds the captoe. In the picture it doesn't look too bad, but in reality it's very antiaesthetic. It really looks like there is a stain on the shoe. Is there something I can do?

Thank you very much for your help!

First of all .. those r some really beautiful shoes. But the problem is that they are hand painted shoes.
Thank that black line can be taken off by then the problem would be that u will have to strip the shoe. It’s a difficult thing to do. The solution I have is not the best and risky .. maybe someone else can give u a better option