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David_b

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Hi all,

I’ve recently purchased a pair of Loake Royal Brogues and I would just like some advice on caring for them.

I have a decent supply of the DM’s Wonder Balsam at home already and wondered if this would be suitable for them, and if not what would be best suited?

Thanks

D
 

Goodman

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Thanks for replies Re. the Woly shoe cream. So, looking at the jar it says is it contains, "Naptha (petroleum) hydrotreated heavy." I then Googled, "Is petroleum a solvent" and the results state that Naptha is a petroleum-based solvent that cleans by dissolving away dirt. Per the jar The Woly also contains 1,2 benzisothial-3(2H)-one (which may produce an allegergic reaction per label) which is a Biocide = A biocide is defined in the European legislation as a chemical substance or microorganism intended to destroy, deter, render harmless, or exert a controlling effect on any harmful organism by chemical or biological means... and can be of high or low toxicity.

Perhaps I will use the latex gloves if I try the product to be safe.
 

benhour

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First of all i would like to say a very big thank you to Luigi for the nice words !! Always very polite and helpfull as some other gentlemen here that i am really lucky that i have met them (even some times just in this thread)!

Having trouble getting mirror shine on AE strands. I got to a point where no matter how much more I buff them with Saphir Pate de Luxe + water, there's no improvement. The surface is somewhat shiny, but I can still see the pores very clearly. Any advice?
View attachment 961912
Start with a thick layer (no water at all at the begging ) and start making the circles on the surface! when you start to see the surface look even and cloudy (a little sticky) now its the time to add a tiny drop of water ( better exhale on the wax for the first time) and continue the circular motion ! repeat this until there is no haze or stickiness!!
Now its the time to take a new tiny amount of wax and do the previous procedure again !!Generally you have to have in mind that brogue shoes need more layers (1/2 more that plain shoes)

CRITICAL :
  1. Dont change parts of the cloth you are using
  2. Tiny amount of water (first time exhale)
  3. When you take the wax from the tin blow at the cloth with the wax , it ll help evaporate most of the solvent in the wax preventing the stripping of previous layers applied!
  4. Generally 4/5 layers needed (depends on your level of experience/the product you are using/temperature and most on the surface of the leather!


Yes/ I polished them when I first got them, about a year ago. Since then I would just reapply some more polish every once in a while. A few days ago I started applying polish in small amounts first, but after about 5 layers and not much difference I tried thicker layers as well. It's almost like it doesn't stay on the shoe and doesn't fill the pores. Do I need to strip it with soap and try again?

No you dont need to strip them they look perfectly fine and clean!

Did you wait a while(20 mins) for each layer to dry before applying another layer?

Generally you dont need to wait at all between the layers (depends on the product but in general a minute is more that enough even for the most stubborn wax!)

It doesn't hurt to let them dry for a while. Get first a base thick layer and once it dries keep adding thinner ones. It usually works like a charm. It's a matter of practice and finding what works for you.

I would be careful not to put wax where the cap toe has creases or close to those because the wax will crack once you walk around.

As vinsep said, add water only once the wax you have is dry, otherwise you'll drag the base layer out.

It helps to have a tin of wax that is cracked and quite dry, once applied it dries faster and you don't have to wait days in order to get a decent shine.
you are in my mind??? hahahahah :cheers:

i hope i helped a little bit:happy:
 

Vinsep

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First of all i would like to say a very big thank you to Luigi for the nice words !! Always very polite and helpfull as some other gentlemen here that i am really lucky that i have met them (even some times just in this thread)!


Start with a thick layer (no water at all at the begging ) and start making the circles on the surface! when you start to see the surface look even and cloudy (a little sticky) now its the time to add a tiny drop of water ( better exhale on the wax for the first time) and continue the circular motion ! repeat this until there is no haze or stickiness!!
Now its the time to take a new tiny amount of wax and do the previous procedure again !!Generally you have to have in mind that brogue shoes need more layers (1/2 more that plain shoes)

CRITICAL :
  1. Dont change parts of the cloth you are using
  2. Tiny amount of water (first time exhale)
  3. When you take the wax from the tin blow at the cloth with the wax , it ll help evaporate most of the solvent in the wax preventing the stripping of previous layers applied!
  4. Generally 4/5 layers needed (depends on your level of experience/the product you are using/temperature and most on the surface of the leather!




No you dont need to strip them they look perfectly fine and clean!



Generally you dont need to wait at all between the layers (depends on the product but in general a minute is more that enough even for the most stubborn wax!)


you are in my mind??? hahahahah :cheers:

i hope i helped a little bit:happy:

Thank you.

Do you pre dry your wax? A lot of people recommend leaving the tin open for a week. Although I don’t understand why manufacturers don’t pre dry them before they leave the factory if it is necessary.
 

Luigi_M

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@benhour ...you know ... suum quique tribuere :cheers:
@Vinsep , I think it's because the solvent costs just a fraction of the far more expensive waxes and precious oils, and so the manufacturers can reach the nominal weight indicated on the pot (60 grams, or 2 oz., metric or Imperial measures, it depends) maximizing their already large profit ...
Yours (as always ill thinking), Luigi.
 

benhour

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Thank you.

Do you pre dry your wax? A lot of people recommend leaving the tin open for a week. Although I don’t understand why manufacturers don’t pre dry them before they leave the factory if it is necessary.

you welcome!! i hope you ll get your mirrorshine !!

No i dont do that (unavoidably it will happen over time but i dont do that on purpose ) ! If you leave it open for a week it is going to get solidified completely and it would be a nightmare if you are going to use it in any other way than mirror shinning! (not to mention that any other oils or conditioning agents would evaporate too)
 

Typiper

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My goodness that was poorly worded. What I meant to ask was, how long can you safely leave Renovateur on a pair of shoes?
 

mr monty

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Moth damage to suede shoes???

I discovered what looks to be moth damage to 2 pair of suede shoes. Both are EG Chartwell (monk straps) in different colors. They were purchased within the last year (maybe 6 months apart). One pair from ebay and the other pair from a retail store. The ebay pair came from the same retail store. I carefully checked all my 30+ suede shoes/boots and found no damage. Have you guys seen are heard about moth damage to suede footwear??
 

troika

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Moth damage to suede shoes???

I discovered what looks to be moth damage to 2 pair of suede shoes. Both are EG Chartwell (monk straps) in different colors. They were purchased within the last year (maybe 6 months apart). One pair from ebay and the other pair from a retail store. The ebay pair came from the same retail store. I carefully checked all my 30+ suede shoes/boots and found no damage. Have you guys seen are heard about moth damage to suede footwear??

Post some pics, what might this even look like?
 

Christian GV.

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Agree with troika, some pictures would be nice.

On another note, hope you gentlemen can help with some advice on champagne stains.
Had some spilled on my cognac oxford Magnanni's last night, maybe the girl tried to patina my shoes? I cleaned it off immediately but some drops got through. Tried the Renomat, Saphir leather lotion and renovateur in this order as they have cleaning capabilities, the stain lightened just a tiny bit. So now I've got two options left; either I could utilize soap duds by Springyard/Saphir soap to soak the leather and "pull" out the stain... or I could return to the club to complete the look :laugh:

I appreciate any advice!

Attached some photos for you to see, last picture is after "failed" treatment.

DSC_1341.JPG
DSC_1342.JPG
DSC_1355.JPG
 
Last edited:

BoydsShoes

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Agree with troika, some pictures would be nice.

On another note, hope you gentlemen can help with some advice on champagne stains.
Had some spilled on my cognac oxford Magnanni's last night, maybe the girl tried to patina my shoes? I cleaned it off immediately but some drops got through. Tried the Renomat, Saphir leather lotion and renovateur in this order as they have cleaning capabilities, the stain lightened just a tiny bit. So now I've got two options left; either I could utilize soap duds by Springyard/Saphir soap to soak the leather and "pull" out the stain... or I could return to the club to complete the look :laugh:

I appreciate any advice!

Attached some photos for you to see, last picture is after "failed" treatment.

View attachment 966187
View attachment 966188
View attachment 966189

I like the look. Return to the club.

Try baking soda.

And if that doesn't work, the alternative is using some "earth:" Terre De Sommieres by Saphir or Fuller's Earth.

And if that doesn't work, with extreme caution use Detacheur Cuir Textiles spray.

But warning: these things, particularly the Detacheur spray, really dry out the shoes, and need some recovery time involving conditioning, etc. They extract oils from the shoes as well as the spot, so I am not convinced this stuff is all that great for your shoes. But I like chemistry, so even a weird result is interesting to me.

At any rate, the club has some advantages.
 

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