The OCBD collar roll thread

[Shirtmaven]

nice roll
but
aren't you tired of the contrast inner band lining yet?

I have been over it for two years already
I will make them if requested, but I never suggest it.

 

[Cantabrigian]



At Solosso, we've recently been experimenting with different button-down collars with the intent to create a nice collar roll. My I like my casual shirts with contrast collar lining and button thread.

 

[Solosso]

nice roll
but
aren't you tired of the contrast inner band lining yet?

I have been over it for two years already
I will make them if requested, but I never suggest it.

There are a few I like. I think they work nicely with soft collars. I do not recommend them either on stiff fused collars which look best buttoned-up and with a tie anyway.

 

[arnathor]

Any idea where one can acquire shirts with such a roll? Mercer, Kamakura?

 

[superfishy8]

my best guess is mercer. having gotten a few kamakura shirts (including the vintage ivy ones with "better collar roll"), I have found that the kamakura button downs are still a little short compared to the voluminous mercer roll

 

[Cantabrigian]

You can get a roll like the last one at any just about any mall.

 

[arnathor]

You can get a roll like the last one at any just about any mall.

I like how that elongated collar looks there, but from the looks of it, seems like it is a hidden button down.

 

[Katzenjamer]

Excellent thread!



So, I may try BB made-to-measure in hopes of trying to replicate the OCBD collar roll of years gone by. Has anyone tried to get them to do this via MTM/custom? By asking if, for example, they might leave out the interfused collar lining? Or is that too "custom" for their made-to-measure?

My other option is Kamakura - I live in the Upper East Side so the Manhattan shop is easy for me to visit. I'll do so this week.

Mercer I like a lot in many respects, but I really don't like billowy shirts. Otherwise, the collar looks great. From what I hear, Mercer will just size down the body, and take it in a bit - but the shape is still not very fitted. I don't buy the myth floating around that the billowy room is more traditional wrt Ivy look/OCBD - I can provide loads of pics that say otherwise. Indeed, it seems to me that the billowy shirt thing came in when the waists/torso of Americans started to balloon out.

Cheers,

~Katz

 

[David Reeves]

Not an oxford but a fairly unusual roll.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Unusual indeed.

 

[MrChris]

Thought I should contribute to this thead, tried a BD collar from my regular MTM program I use. I'm very pleased with the reslut:

 

[P. Bateman]

Does anyone know a good resource to learn more about collar construction and methods? I have a few shirts with collar bands and others where the collar and band are one single piece. I'd like to learn what each is called and why the difference. TIA.

 

[Andrew Ryan]

Proper Cloth. Sorry for the ****** phone photo.

 

[BrooksLauren77]

Proper Cloth. Sorry for the ****** phone photo.

Nice, is that the Soft Ivy collar?

 

[Andrew Ryan]

Indeed it is.