The OCBD collar roll thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by srivats, Feb 7, 2010.

  1. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    I am starting this thread as a point of comparison/discussion for those of us in love with OCBDs. Much has been written about collar roll in different threads - I remember one of Vox's stellar posts - now only if I can remember where he posted that! Doc has also posted some excellent photos of his own ... I am going to find and add them here.

    Just as a starter, here is a sample pic from one of my latest Mercer shirts:

    [​IMG]
     
  2. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    Great idea Sri...I want some BD collars on my next few shirts, but am lost when it comes down to describing them...a photo would be perfect. I'm a big fan of PG's collar rolls.
     
  3. MORNINGSTAR777

    MORNINGSTAR777 Senior member

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    I've owned: Club Monaco Polo Ralph Lauren Brooks Brothers Lands' End - Hyde Park, Original Oxford, Varsity Fit J. Crew Gap - Tailored Fit Out all my favorite overall is Brooks Brothers (the original of course), however I found that the now discontinued Lands' End Hyde Park OCBD has the best roll. Polo Ralph Lauren has the best feeling collar (feels like there's no interlining at all), but the collar points are too small to get a good roll; the same problem with CM, J. Crew and Gap. Below is an example of the Hyde Park [​IMG]
     
  4. robin

    robin Senior member

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  5. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    I've owned:

    Club Monaco
    Polo Ralph Lauren
    Brooks Brothers
    Lands' End - Hyde Park, Original Oxford, Varsity Fit
    J. Crew
    Gap - Tailored Fit

    Out all my favorite overall is Brooks Brothers (the original of course), however I found that the now discontinued Lands' End Hyde Park OCBD has the best roll. Polo Ralph Lauren has the best feeling collar (feels like there's no interlining at all), but the collar points are too small to get a good roll; the same problem with CM, J. Crew and Gap.


    I find the Mercer and BB collar rolls most pleasing to my eyes. BBBF, if it fits you, is excellent as well. Mercer shirts have no fusing/interling and that is part of the reason why they roll so well - the size on them is 3 7/16" which is slightly longer than BB. From what I understand, all their collars are hand attached as well.

    Lands End comes next ... the hyde park is very good value for the money. I also have 2 older shirts from RL (no logo!) and they are terrific as well (no lining).
     
  6. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    Some photos from the established members:

    [​IMG]

    (Chipp)

    [​IMG]


    Some BD pics, showing roll and tie space:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Lots of roll:

    [​IMG]

    Less roll but very soft:

    [​IMG]

    I like them both ways, but the lack of tie space you have is killing the shirt. The Borrelli collars are really nicely shaped, but IMO are a bit too stiff.


    Here's how I like mine to look:

    CEGO:
    [​IMG]


    Mercer:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Over the years, I've bought more than a dozen OCBDs from Brooks Brothers and gave Mercer a crack. I would've tried J. Press, but their stock shirts are tents on me and they don't do made-to-measure OCBDs. Until now, no OCBD has completely satisfied me.

    So, I decided to give Brooks Brothers' made-to-measure program another try--but this time, I implemented some modifications to the classic format.


    [​IMG]

    To make the collar higher and improve the collar roll, I had them implement a two-button collar. The old, single-button collar tended to flatten on my neck; this one stays up and looks better with a jacket. In the interest of making the shirt dressier, I also replaced the standard placket with a French placket (or 'no placket', if you prefer).
     
  7. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The BBBF strikes me as a caricature of the traditional roll. It's almost Eye-talian, and so I cast a suspicious eye upon it. But it's nice for wearing without a tie.

    I have some vintage J. Press shirts that have a very nice roll despite the construction. A shame they feel compelled to keep tinkering with it. I like the flap pockets.

    I did a week o' the white buttondown a while back, but I don't know if I still have the pics. Sero, old-school Brooks, Sulka, Press, etc. I'll dig around and see if I can find them.
     
  8. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I found that BBBF collars are hit or miss,some of them make a really good roll to wear with ties but most of them look hideous so I wear them without a tie. I think same can be said about any button down shirt,it is hit or miss.
     
  9. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I've owned:

    Club Monaco
    Polo Ralph Lauren
    Brooks Brothers
    Lands' End - Hyde Park, Original Oxford, Varsity Fit
    J. Crew
    Gap - Tailored Fit

    Out all my favorite overall is Brooks Brothers (the original of course), however I found that the now discontinued Lands' End Hyde Park OCBD has the best roll. Polo Ralph Lauren has the best feeling collar (feels like there's no interlining at all), but the collar points are too small to get a good roll; the same problem with CM, J. Crew and Gap.

    Below is an example of the Hyde Park
    [​IMG]


    I really like this one,I wish all my OCBDs made such a roll,albeit only some of them turn out like that. Are these made in China ones?
     
  10. NaturalShoulder

    NaturalShoulder Senior member

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    I wish my Hyde Park had a roll anywhere close to that. I like the tailored fit Hyde Parks and find the fabric good quality and love the price.

    I have found Mercers have the best roll of shirts I have tried (Press, Hyde Park, Gitman, BB OTR, BB MTM), except for an older BB.
     
  11. BBC

    BBC Senior member

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    BB ocbd from the late 1960s


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    BBC, that looks terrific - thanks for the photos!
     
  13. MORNINGSTAR777

    MORNINGSTAR777 Senior member

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    I find the Mercer and BB collar rolls most pleasing to my eyes. BBBF, if it fits you, is excellent as well. Mercer shirts have no fusing/interling and that is part of the reason why they roll so well - the size on them is 3 7/16" which is slightly longer than BB. From what I understand, all their collars are hand attached as well.

    Lands End comes next ... the hyde park is very good value for the money. I also have 2 older shirts from RL (no logo!) and they are terrific as well (no lining).


    I'd love to try BBBF, but being pretty tall and slim makes it impossible for me; I have to buy slim fit/extra slim fit BB in 15.5/36. I'd like to try a Mercer, but aren't they known for their full cut? I see you can order a shirt 2" slimmer, but I wonder if could request something smaller along the lines of BB slim fit?

    I really like this one,I wish all my OCBDs made such a roll,albeit only some of them turn out like that. Are these made in China ones?

    Yes, they are made in china.
     
  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    BB ocbd from the late 1960s

    [​IMG]


    Wow.

    The outside breast pocket dates from '65 or '68...that and the "All Cotton" notation on the label, indeed, dates it to the late 60s. There would have to be care instructions on the label from '71 onward.

    I won't ask where you got it or whom you killed.

    Collar might be too small for you...


    - B
     
  15. BBC

    BBC Senior member

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    Wow.

    The outside breast pocket dates from '65 or '68...that and the "All Cotton" notation on the label, indeed, dates it to the late 60s. There would have to be care instructions on the label from '71 onward.

    I won't ask where you got it or whom you killed.

    Collar might be too small for you...


    - B


    Fortunately, it does fit albeit just a hair tight, but I like'm that way. I plan on wearing it infrequently and just in casual, open collar situations. The six-button front, instead of seven, also seems to help the overall look of the collar.

    Picked it up from another forum member after searching for one for quite some time.
     

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