Son Of Saphir
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Thx,
May you kindly tell me what's the difference between benzivegna, norvegian & Goodyear?
Main difference
Bentivegna is in turned upper with L welt and constructed by hand
Help keep water out of inseam area due to L welt and hand inseaming,
but not perfect.
Easiest to repair
Norwegian/norvegese = out turned upper with usually no welt constructed by hand
It keep water out of inseam area completely and keep water out better than Bentivegna.
More difficult to repair because of no feather
Goodyear = in turned upper with I welt and machine constructed.
Possible construction weakness due to glue and plastic used with inseaming process
Not keep out water so gemming failure sometimes occur when salt water get in and dissolve glue and sometime rot plastic feather
Can be many difficulties to repair.
More detailed construction difference
It general difference,
but sometimes shoemaker do things differently.
Bentivegna
In turned upper.
L welt stitched through upper to insole by hand
L welt stitched to mid sole and out sole.
Goiser
In turned upper
L welt stitched to insole feather by hand
L welt stitched to mid sole
L welt stitched to mid sole to out sole.
(Bentivegna and Goiser and Reverse hand welted construction can be the same or different,
depends on maker)
Norwegian
Out turned upper stitched down to mid sole
Out turned upper inseamed to insole feather
Mid sole stitched to outsole
No welt
Norvegese
Out turned upper stitched down to mid sole
Out turned upper inseamed to insole with no feather
Mid sole stitched to outsole
No welt
Lattanzi and Santoni do it this way and welt not possible to use the way they do it.
Goodyear
I welt stitched to In turned upper machine stitched to plastic feather usually glued to insole
Welt stitched to sole
Storm welt goodyear
it very silly
t welt have no use is real shoemaking.
I welts and L welts are real welts.
Water still get in because t welt decorative.
Many other construction to and sometimes they get called the same thing.
Me like to get detailed and break construction into category because it help me understand more good.
It not definite guide.
Best part of post is the first part at the top.
haloitsme said:Can anyone restore bentivegna soles?
Thx
A good cobbler should be able to do it.
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