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The Definitive Guide to Slim Fit Shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by imageWIS, May 1, 2007.

  1. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jul 8, 2007
    I have found that RL classic shirts (at least the ones I got a Marshall's) offer a decent fit if I size down from a 15.5" neck and a 39" chest (my actual numbers) to a 14.5/37. [​IMG] [​IMG]

    i have a roda shirt thats labeled 15/38. by far the shortest shirt i have, especially the sleeves. the waist fits me oddly also, i geuss its just not for my (tall skinny) body type.

    i cant get myself to buy anything from yoox.com, their models really leave me clueless as to how an item fits.


    Just to point out what seems to be a common error: the second number quoted immediately after a shirt's US collar size is not the chest, it's the European collar size. So 15/38 or 14.5/37 offer no information as to whether the shirt is skinny or not.
     
  2. touristique

    touristique Member

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    I found that the new "Bleecker" cut from Ralph Lauren is a great take on the "Custom Fit" and is well worth looking into.
     
  3. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    I found that the new "Bleecker" cut from Ralph Lauren is a great take on the "Custom Fit" and is well worth looking into.

    Is it slimmer than custom fit?

    Jon.
     
  4. touristique

    touristique Member

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    Just to point out what seems to be a common error: the second number quoted immediately after a shirt's US collar size is not the chest, it's the European collar size. So 15/38 or 14.5/37 offer no information as to whether the shirt is skinny or not.

    Are you 100%? I'm sure I've tried two shirts from the same manufacturer which were 15"/31 and 15"/33 and they've had the same collar but different chests.

    Just curious, and I'd always assumed it was chest.
     
  5. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Are you 100%? I'm sure I've tried two shirts from the same manufacturer which were 15"/31 and 15"/33 and they've had the same collar but different chests.

    Just curious, and I'd always assumed it was chest.


    Nope, 31 or 33 would be the sleeve length.

    Jon.
     
  6. touristique

    touristique Member

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  7. touristique

    touristique Member

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    Is it slimmer than custom fit?

    Jon.

    Officially I don't know, but it seems to be. I found it to be much closer to a Black Label fit. Prices range around $95 to $170 with many patterns and fabrics. Check them out.
     
  8. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    15"/31" is the collar and sleeve size. You should have noted different sleeve lengths too.

    Are you 100%? I'm sure I've tried two shirts from the same manufacturer which were 15"/31 and 15"/33 and they've had the same collar but different chests.

    Just curious, and I'd always assumed it was chest.
     
  9. macuser3of5

    macuser3of5 Senior member

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    Just to point out what seems to be a common error: the second number quoted immediately after a shirt's US collar size is not the chest, it's the European collar size. So 15/38 or 14.5/37 offer no information as to whether the shirt is skinny or not.
    Merely stating that the shirts are cut so large that for a given printed number, I have to size down 1"+ to get something that isn't a bag. I see that my posts was a bit confusing by having the numbers next to each other.
     
  10. sung41

    sung41 Member

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    Um, wrong thread. [​IMG]

    Jon.


    agreed
     
  11. EdenResident

    EdenResident Senior member

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    Location:
    Vienna, VA
    How much should I expect to pay to get my shirts taylored? Is it worth it or should I just by new ones?

    All of my Brooks Brothers slim fit shirts need to be taken in just a little bit.

    The funny thing is that the cheapest shirts I own (Guess) fit the best. Go figure


    Actually Guess, despite everyone's contempt for them on this board, has pretty nice fitting shirts. Most of their casual shirts look like this one.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Wurkinstiff

    Wurkinstiff Member

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    Oct 10, 2007
    Location:
    Charleston SC
    Guess does have some good slim fitting shirts, but they don't seem to last very long. The quality of the materials seems a little questionable.

    I have several Brooks Brothers Slim fit non iron shirts going on two years with no signs of wear [​IMG]

    They are expensive, but what else can you buy for $75 that lasts for two years.
     
  13. giffsa

    giffsa New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Oct 30, 2007
    When i lived in Australia i used to get slim-fit shirts from Herringbone:

    http://www.herringbone.com.au

    You can buy off the wesbite so i guess they can be shipped o/s. Only a small range available online mind... but if you're ever in Sydney, they've got some interesting prints available. Good colors.
     
  14. Dewey

    Dewey Senior member

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    Jul 19, 2007
    Not a lot of numbers in this thread. I need a 16" neck with an 18"-18.5" yoke, a 42-44" chest, and a 39-40" middle. I have had no luck at all with RTW shirts, even when I size down to a 15.5" neck on brands that offer a generous (1/2 in+) neck allowance. I have had some success with three MTM sources (Jantzen, Bestcustomshirt, and a local guy). Sadly, since I also live in an area without a robust tailoring tradition, the more expensive RTW shirts (Finamore, e.g.) are out because I am not confident I can find a seamstress to shorten the sleeves (I need 33"-34"). But enough about my needs. I offer this sad tale [​IMG] as a warning to you younger peoples.

    If anyone has similar measurements & knows an RTW shirt worth trying, I'd love to hear about it. Good luck fellow dress shirt fiends.
     
  15. bigboss

    bigboss New Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2007
    Charles Tyrwhitt slim fit shirts
    Construction: 9/10
    Price: 8/10
    Fabric: Poplin , twill in 100% cotton (80's - 140's 2x)
    Patterns: plain, check, stripe
    Fit: | | (i.e. English fit. The other two would be the blousy American / \\ and tapered French \\ /)
    Comments: Business ready, complimentary brass collar stiffeners

    Size----14h33..15/33..15/35..15h33... 15h35..15h37..16/34..16/35..16/36..16h34..16h35..16h36..16h38
    Collar....14.5"......15"......15"....15.5".... 15.5"...15.5"......16"......16".....16"....16.5"...16.5"...16.5"....16.5"
    Sleeve--...33"......33"......35".......33"....... 35"......37"......34"......35".....36".......34"......35"......36".......38"
    Chest---...42"......43"......43".......44"....... 44"......44"......46"......46".....46".......47"......47"......47".......51"\t
    Waist.......39"......40"......40".......41"....... 41"......41"......43"......43".....43".......44"......44"......44".......50"
    Bottom--.......................................................................................................................45"........................
    Shoulders-.................................................................................................................18.5"........................
    Cuff----............................................................................................................................9"........................
    Armhole--......................................................................................................................12"........................
    Frntlngth..31"......31"......31"....31.5".... 31.5"...31.5"......32"......32".....32".......32"......32"......32".......33"\t
    Bcklngth...31"......31"......31"....31.5".... 31.5"...31.5"......32"......32".....32".......32"......32"......32".......35"

    Size----17/35..17/37..17h36..17h38.. 18/37..19/37..19/38..20/37..20/38
    Collar......17"......17"...17.5"....17.5"...... 18".....19"......19"......20"......20"
    Sleeve--..35"......37"......36".......38"...... 37".....37"......38"......37"......38"
    Chest---..49"......49"......50".......55"...... 52".....53"......59"......54"......61"
    Waist......46"......46"......48".......54"...... 49".....50"......58"......52"......60"
    Bottom--...................................................................................................
    Shoulders-................................................................................................
    Cuff----.....................................................................................................
    Armhole--..................................................................................................
    Frntlngth.32"......32"......32".......33"... 32.5"..32.5"......35"...32.5"......35"
    Bcklngth..32"......32"......32".......35"... 32.5"..32.5"......37"...32.5"......37"
     
  16. Countertenor

    Countertenor Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 15, 2007
    Jon's (FIHTies) slim fit shirts are very nice. I received one (gratis, full disclosure) and I will post a full review shortly. To sum up, they have a few quirks I don't care for personally, but no glaring quality issues, and to put it in a few words, they fit almost like the H&M slim fit shirts I like very much, but much better made.

    This is the one I chose: http://www.fourinhand.com/Product.as...ct=FHES-80G-08

    IMO an excellent value for $110.


    Did you ever write a full review of the shirt (with pics, of course)? I can't seem to find it if you did.
     
  17. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Jul 8, 2007
    To echo this previous post, Balenciaga make a nice fitting shirt. I bought a 15/38 from ebay seller dolce-made-in-italy and the fit is tidy without being tight. The shirt model is 'Firenze'. The sleeze size was unlisted, but I'd guess it is a 33".

    "Any of the designer brands make slim shirts. This is especially true once you get at the more esoteric brands such as Dries van Noten or Undercover."

    I wouldn't say that ANY designer brand makes slim shirts. Dolce and Gabbana and Gucci is cut more for bigger guys for instance and they are cut like a box in comparison to something like Dior Homme.

    "Comme Des Garcons" Is probably the least slim-fitting shirts of all I would say, they are cut like a box. The Junya Watanabe line is a bit more fitted but it's a bit too casual and sports like with too much detailing for my taste.

    If you want some good slim-fit shirts go for something like: Balenciaga, Dior Homme (Although Kriss Van Asche is making them a bit more boxy now), ATO, Miu Miu...

    Brands like Zegna, Brioni, Etro, and other suit designers I would stear away from because they have too boxy a cut. I feel that most designers know nothing about tailoring and what it is to make a fitted shirt. The best shirt I have is a Balenciaga.

    If you dont want it too fitted then Lanvin is good as well, they make some of the best quality shirts around (the proper pret-a-porter Lanvin not the suit boutique).
     
  18. madgrad

    madgrad Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 22, 2007
    Any advice for me on shirts other than MTM? I'm 6'2, about 165, I've got a 36-37 inch chest and a 30 inch 'true' waist, 32 where I wear most of my dress pants. I take a 35 inch sleeve. H*M slim fit in small fit perfectly in the body but the sleeves are way too short so I just buy mediums and hope for the best. I still look way better than most of the guys around me, their dress shirts could double as ships sails. I've tried most 'slim' fit mass market shirts, RL, BB, J crew, Banan, etc and I've come to the conclusion that america is not only fat, it's delusional.
     
  19. freeride1

    freeride1 Member

    Messages:
    12
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    Jun 18, 2007
    Are there any tall people wearing Band of Outsiders? How is the length? How long are the sleeves? I'm 6'5 very skinny so I cant just size down.
     
  20. itskub

    itskub Senior member

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    Nov 23, 2006
    madgrad, you and I have the exact same spec's. check my old posts in this thread, pg 7,8, or 9? i strongly recommend Patrizia Pepe (found at every Daffy's, for $50 marked down from 100-150) shirts in Medium or 48. they also have thin knits, cardigans, pants- though some of their designs are a bit outlandish. i perfer their basic. solids, classic items.
    it's the one single (affordable) brand ive found that fits me perfectly, even at 6'3". the waist comes in a bit, and the sleeves/armholes are slim AND long.

    and BoO, i didnt even bother trying them on at Barney's. Just holding one up, it looked too short.

    edit:
    theres also a seller on ebay that has a few Patrizia Pepe stuff. send a pm and ask for what they carry in size 48 (take my word for it, its the proper size).

    oh and if youre wondering about polos or tshirt.. were both out of luck.[​IMG]
     

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