The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[DWFII]

AFAIK, 'gimping' is the correct terminology for leather and shoes no matter where you are...unless you're working with cloth. In which case it's 'pinking' as in 'pinking shears.'

 

[DWFII]

Is gimping / pinking on brogued shoes a standard feature of high end / bespoke shoes or more based on personal preference?

It's just a style...neither particularly high end nor low end. But like a lot of things it is a very useful way to 'break up' the lines of a shoe to to create additional interest as well as camouflage imperfections of the pattern, etc..

 

[bjhofkin]

I can't hear the word "gimping" without thinking about that scene from Pulp Fiction…

 

[razmaftei]

Bring out the gimp.

 

[ntempleman]

Notching is almost as commonly used in the west end. Strangely enough we describe it as gimping usually, but if you’re writing an order ticket and you don’t want gimping, i would write that as “no notch” rather than “no gimp”

 

[Coldfire3k3]

Notching is almost as commonly used in the west end. Strangely enough we describe it as gimping usually, but if you’re writing an order ticket and you don’t want gimping, i would write that as “no notch” rather than “no gimp”

So do your shoes by default include gimping for brogued shoes and only omitted if specifically requested for by the customer?

 

[ntempleman]

Brogued shoes tend to have gimping as standard, traditionally. I generally advise going no notch if the shoes are suede, and offer the option at the time of order

 

[Coldfire3k3]

Brogued shoes tend to have gimping as standard, traditionally. I generally advise going no notch if the shoes are suede, and offer the option at the time of order

Why do you advise no notch for suede shoes?

 

[Texasmade]

It looks weird to have gimping on suede. It’s not commonly done. I can’t really think of too many makers that do it but I’m sure someone has pictures somewhere.

 

[ntempleman]

I just think it looks better and neater on suede to have a straight edge, plus the cut edge on suede tends to get a bit fluffy over time and the notched edge doesn’t look so good any more

 

[circumspice]

Some of Carmina's suede austerity brogues have it.

 

[DWFII]

The point about gimping on suede getting ragged, esp. split suede, is well taken.

Thing is...IMO...any 'raw' edge looks kind of unfinished and maybe even amateurish to my eyes.

I suspect gimping evolved, all unvoiced, as a foil to that 'rawness'. As a way to redirect or beguile the eye in the face of that "fluffy-ness."

Folding raw edges is...again, IMO...better, functionally and far better aesthetically, than a raw edge. But when a raw edge is needed, gimping serves a purpose.

 

[sensuki]

Hey guys I'm in a bit of a bind here, I thought I'd post for some advice.

I am a bespoke customer getting a pair of bespoke shoes made. I placed my order with the maker over a year ago, and we settled on a leather about 6 months ago or more. We've done the fittings and signed off on the design/last.

From the very beginning, I stated that I wanted dark brown box calf - I'm getting wholecut derbies with a plain round toe. The maker went to place the order for my leather, which the supplier said was in stock, and after he placed the order they emailed him and said that they just sold the last hide of that type - Annonay Vocalou 2896 Dark brown/espresso/whatever.

It also seems that dark brown box calf has become suddenly very hard to find. The maker is pretty keen to order from one of his two suppliers and is pushing me towards a similar color of Annonay Vocalou that is still brown but more towards a mid brown, with red tones in it. I'm not suuper keen on the color as it's not what I was after. In the email where he forwarded me the photos from the supplier, the conversation between him and the supplier is also included and he says to the maker that he thinks I am very fussy and that he really hopes that I pick this leather. The supplier also states in the email chain that they will stock the desired color after they sell off their current stock.

This makes me feel a bit uncomfortable because all I want is plain dark brown calf. I don't care whether the tannery is Annonay, Zonta, Du Puy - whatever.

In my own searching, Maverick Leather Company has two colours of Annonay Vocalou in seconds quality, and I have also found some Weinheimer Espresso - but would probably need to see a swatch first.

What would you guys recommend that I do? Does anyone know where we can get some good dark brown box calf?

 

[DWFII]

Sometimes, esp.with a reputable bespoke maker, who will cut each piece individually without worrying about getting the maximum yield from the hide, a second from a good tannery such as Annonay may yield a thoroughly prime pair of shoes. A second may be designated a second because of a cosmetic flaw somewhere on the hide...not even necessarily in the prime areas of the hide. Being a second doesn't mean that the whole hide is lower quality.

I've seen what Maverick carries. As a bespoke maker myself, I'd have to examine the hide carefully and select it judiciously. But, that said, there's some good leather there.

 

[sensuki]

I ended up going to see him as we're in the same city. It seems like he was tailoring his language to the supplier in the email, and to me he said that he thought they were just trying to get rid of their stock.

We're looking into an Austrian supplier and Maverick, but any other leads would be extremely helpful