Talk to me about moth protection

[TimelesStyle]

Originally Posted by stubloom

Porcelain monkey: I know about as much about pest control as your pest control professional knows about dry cleaning. Your pest control professional should realize that you can't draw inferences about true quality cleaners based on a few hole-in-the-wall, filthy dry cleaners with whom he is personally acquainted. Maybe his inferences are drawn from the cleaner he uses to clean his uniform.

I agree with this. My cleaner, for example, doesn't even have the laundry or dry cleaning machine on-premises. Therefore, the only time my clean stuff spends around the dirty stuff is for the few hours after it's done being laundered until it makes its way back to her shop. In her shop, even if the clean stuff is in close proximity to the newly-delivered dirty stuff, the clean is in bags and would at the very least be harder for moths to get at.

 

[porcelain monkey]

Originally Posted by stubloom

Porcelain monkey: I know about as much about pest control as your pest control professional knows about dry cleaning. Your pest control professional should realize that you can't draw inferences about true quality cleaners based on a few hole-in-the-wall, filthy dry cleaners with whom he is personally acquainted. Maybe his inferences are drawn from the cleaner he uses to clean his uniform.

Originally Posted by TimelesStyle

I agree with this. My cleaner, for example, doesn't even have the laundry or dry cleaning machine on-premises. Therefore, the only time my clean stuff spends around the dirty stuff is for the few hours after it's done being laundered until it makes its way back to her shop. In her shop, even if the clean stuff is in close proximity to the newly-delivered dirty stuff, the clean is in bags and would at the very least be harder for moths to get at.

I can't argue with either of you too much, but the fact remains that the only moth damage I have had in several years is on garments that came back from the cleaner and were hung in the closet for nine months. The moth traps did not catch a single male moth, so the infestation did not start there. I don't use a "hole-in-the-wall, filthy dry cleaner" either. In any event, I will now be using a new cleaner and will not automatically store freshly cleaned woolens without airing and brushing them first.

 

[stubloom]

Porcelain monkey: Re-read my post. Carefully. I NEVER referred to your dry cleaner. Not even once. I think that it's pretty clear cut that I was referring to cleaners with which your PEST CONTROL PROFESSIONAL is familiar.

 

[porcelain monkey]

Originally Posted by stubloom

Porcelain monkey: Re-read my post. Carefully. I NEVER referred to your dry cleaner. Not even once. I think that it's pretty clear cut that I was referring to cleaners with which your PEST CONTROL PROFESSIONAL is familiar.

I know you did not make a direct referral -- I was just making a point. It is my belief that I carried moth larva home from my cleaners, and they are a respectable, long-standing community business. Your inference was that my pest control guy is himself a bit dirty, with may be true, but he is someone who has seen it all, and a valuable reference in these matters.

That aside, I would be very curious if others on this forum have suspected that moths have come home from their dry cleaner.

 

[SpallaCamiccia]

Thanks for the links to your products, I'll study those when I get another computer, since mine did broke and I am in a public booth.

My suit bags are more or less that this from Kiton, are those bad for suits?

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=217315

Thank you

 

[chestercopperpot]

hey stubloom

how much does it cost for you to clean/pack and store a cashmere sweater?

 

[forex]

Originally Posted by chestercopperpot

hey stubloom

how much does it cost for you to clean/pack and store a cashmere sweater?

Check his website, all prices are on there.

 

[stubloom]

Forex is right. The website lists the prices for breathable storage bags purchased individually (suits, coats, etc) or in a packs of 6 (sweaters).

When we clean sweaters, however, it's our standard practice to ask clients how they wish their sweaters to be returned. If a client tells us that they want their sweaters folded, we automatically insert their sweaters into appropriately sized sweater bags at a small additional cost (I think it's around $1.50 per breathable bag).

It's not unusual for spouses to have very different preferences: one spouse wants their sweaters folded in breathable sweater bags; the other wants their sweaters folded over a strut hanger. In many cases, these preferences are dictated by the configuration of the cabinetry and closets in which the sweaters are stored.

 

[SpallaCamiccia]

Originally Posted by stubloom

Forex is right. The website lists the prices for breathable storage bags purchased individually (suits, coats, etc) or in a packs of 6 (sweaters). When we clean sweaters, however, it's our standard practice to ask clients how they wish their sweaters to be returned. If a client tells us that they want their sweaters folded, we automatically insert their sweaters into appropriately sized sweater bags at a small additional cost (I think it's around $1.50 per breathable bag). It's not unusual for spouses to have very different preferences: one spouse wants their sweaters folded in breathable sweater bags; the other wants their sweaters folded over a strut hanger. In many cases, these preferences are dictated by the configuration of the cabinetry and closets in which the sweaters are stored.
Dear friend, please answer me to my question woith the link of the kiton bags aboveif those are not good for the acid stuff. I got 2000 comic books and been told to change the plastic bags every couple of years to prevent yellowing either. I might contact with you when I got a new computer at home to send me 10 or so bags overseas. Thank you Edited, the silverfishes wouldn't eat your breathable bags right? I got tons of them in my building...

 

[stubloom]

Response to SpallaCamiccia:

Our breathable bags for suits (42 inches) and coats (60 inches) will not permit entry of moths or silverfish. They have a nylon zipper on one side and are completely sewn up on the other three sides. If I recall correctly, the holes (they provide for breathability) are 9 microns. Furthermore, the bags, made of man-made fibers, cannot be eaten by moths or silverfish.

Regarding the Kiton bags, it's difficult to tell from the pictures if they are made from nylon or man made fibrers. I'd need a pic that is a close up to make that determination.

I don't know much about comic books but the same "acid free" principles apply that we've discussed on this thread apply. Here's my best NON-EXPERT response to your question on comic books:

There are 2 reasons why paper turns yellow and becomes brittle over time...

1. The paper contains lignin which is highly acidic. Lignin is the chemical sap inside the tree that causes a tree to grow and stay upright. Typically, 90% of the tree is utilized in the production of pulp and the lignin is NOT removed. The result is paper that is highly acidic and will turn yellow and brittle over time.

Newsprint is a perfect example of a paper that is highly acidic. Lignin is the reason why your daily newspaper turns yellow so quickly. Lignin is also the reason why so many older books in public libraries and university libraries are literally falling apart.

By contrast, high quality coffee table books are good examples of books that are printed on acid free paper -- where all the lignin has been removed during the paper manufacturing process (look inside the first one or two pages of a high quality coffee table book and you'll see the caption "Printed on acid free paper".

2. The pulp manufacturing process ITSELF is chemically intensive. Many of the chemicals used contain acids, sulphur and chlorine. These chemicals remain in cheaper papers and add to the rate at which paper yellows and turns brittle.

Acid free paper is very expensive (compared to regular paper) because only about 10% of a tree can be utilized (the acidic components are discarded). Furthermore, the pulp manufacturing process is very different/complicated and free of acid, sulphur and chlorine.

You need to understand these issues if your'e going to protect your comic books. The paper on which those comic books are printed is probably highly acidic. That paper will yellow and deteriorate over time. You can't stop the deterioration. It's inherent in the paper. What you can do is to SLOW DOWN the speed or rate at which the paper yellows and brittlizes (does such a word exist?).

REGULAR plastic bags, changed every year, WILL DO NOTHING TO PROTECT YOUR COMIC BOOKS. That advise is sheer lunacy. The plastic that your'e using to protect your comic books is ITSELF acidic and will off-gas acids over time. And when those acids come into physical contact with those comic books, the acids will ACCELERATE the problem and doing nothing to SLOW DOWN the problem.

Instead of regular plastic bags, you need to acquire plastic sleeves that are chemically inert and will not deteriorate over time. Examples are sleeves made of Du Pont's Mylar D or Mellinex 516 (the same stuff I told you about when we were discussing cedar and the need to protect your garments against the adverse effects of cedar wood). Any good museum conservation/preservation supply house should have Mylar D or Mellinex 516 sleeves. There are a number of such suppliers in the UK. Unsure about the rest of the EU.

Good luck.

 

[k4lnamja]

Originally Posted by Insensitive

Somehow, I've managed to never have suffered from moth damage. What I've done over the past 20+ years is buy a breathable canvas garment bag for each suit or coat. When an item goes in the closet, the item gets immediately placed into its own bag. When I send something out for cleaning, I brush and wipe down the inside of the bag. Perhaps its overkill or I've just been lucky.

I do sometimes get odd used things from thrift stores or eBay. Those don't get anywhere near my closet without being cleaned.

What do you guys mean you brush your clothes or bag down? What type of brush are you using? Thank you

 

[ljrcustom]

Originally Posted by k4lnamja

What do you guys mean you brush your clothes or bag down? What type of brush are you using? Thank you

I am also curious about the same brush, that several of you have mentioned. Could someone please explain more. Thanks.

-LR

 

[SpallaCamiccia]

Originally Posted by stubloom

Response to SpallaCamiccia:

Our breathable bags for suits (42 inches) and coats (60 inches) will not permit entry of moths or silverfish. They have a nylon zipper on one side and are completely sewn up on the other three sides. If I recall correctly, the holes (they provide for breathability) are 9 microns. Furthermore, the bags, made of man-made fibers, cannot be eaten by moths or silverfish.

Regarding the Kiton bags, it's difficult to tell from the pictures if they are made from nylon or man made fibrers. I'd need a pic that is a close up to make that determination.

I don't know much about comic books but the same "acid free" principles apply that we've discussed on this thread apply. Here's my best NON-EXPERT response to your question on comic books:

There are 2 reasons why paper turns yellow and becomes brittle over time...

1. The paper contains lignin which is highly acidic. Lignin is the chemical sap inside the tree that causes a tree to grow and stay upright. Typically, 90% of the tree is utilized in the production of pulp and the lignin is NOT removed. The result is paper that is highly acidic and will turn yellow and brittle over time.

Newsprint is a perfect example of a paper that is highly acidic. Lignin is the reason why your daily newspaper turns yellow so quickly. Lignin is also the reason why so many older books in public libraries and university libraries are literally falling apart.

By contrast, high quality coffee table books are good examples of books that are printed on acid free paper -- where all the lignin has been removed during the paper manufacturing process (look inside the first one or two pages of a high quality coffee table book and you'll see the caption "Printed on acid free paper".

2. The pulp manufacturing process ITSELF is chemically intensive. Many of the chemicals used contain acids, sulphur and chlorine. These chemicals remain in cheaper papers and add to the rate at which paper yellows and turns brittle.

Acid free paper is very expensive (compared to regular paper) because only about 10% of a tree can be utilized (the acidic components are discarded). Furthermore, the pulp manufacturing process is very different/complicated and free of acid, sulphur and chlorine.

You need to understand these issues if your'e going to protect your comic books. The paper on which those comic books are printed is probably highly acidic. That paper will yellow and deteriorate over time. You can't stop the deterioration. It's inherent in the paper. What you can do is to SLOW DOWN the speed or rate at which the paper yellows and brittlizes (does such a word exist?).

REGULAR plastic bags, changed every year, WILL DO NOTHING TO PROTECT YOUR COMIC BOOKS. That advise is sheer lunacy. The plastic that your'e using to protect your comic books is ITSELF acidic and will off-gas acids over time. And when those acids come into physical contact with those comic books, the acids will ACCELERATE the problem and doing nothing to SLOW DOWN the problem.

Instead of regular plastic bags, you need to acquire plastic sleeves that are chemically inert and will not deteriorate over time. Examples are sleeves made of Du Pont's Mylar D or Mellinex 516 (the same stuff I told you about when we were discussing cedar and the need to protect your garments against the adverse effects of cedar wood). Any good museum conservation/preservation supply house should have Mylar D or Mellinex 516 sleeves. There are a number of such suppliers in the UK. Unsure about the rest of the EU.

Good luck.


Thanks for the explanation you did very properly.

Oh Mylar, yes I remember of my teenager days reading some adds on the comic books about mylar sleeves. And I have like 10 of those. but were very stiff , I used some to have number 1's and to hang on my wall some others as I liked the covers. On the other I got usual sleeves ( not plastic bags as those used to carrie tomatoes, sorry for my English.)

I am going to contact my friends to see if together we order you an unite order as new spaniard customs do chargue 20 euros flat free and +35 % on any box over 20 euros

Just to do it at once.

Thank you again!

 

[69clyde]

Originally Posted by TimelesStyle

So I saw a tiny hole in one of my suits today, barely noticeable and has probably been there for some time. However, it made me wonder: What closets are most prone to moths and how do I make sure mine is protected?

My residence is in Southern CA, I'm in an apt. bldg. and my closet is off the bedroom. It has a three-panel sliding door and at least one door is usually open.

I doubt this hole was caused by a moth, but now I am curious how I guard against the little bastards in general.

And as a side note, I'll post pics of the hole if I can, I'm curious if a weaver can fix this or if it's at any risk to get worse.
It's actually carpet beetles, not moths...

 

[SpallaCamiccia]

Originally Posted by ljrcustom

I am also curious about the same brush, that several of you have mentioned. Could someone please explain more. Thanks.

-LR


It's very usual and can be seen on tons of old B /W movies to brush your jacket once you arrive home.

You need that wide brush made from horse hair, the same one that is used for the last shoe polishing step ( but another one ,not the same of course )

You brush the garment and do eliminate the dead parts of your skin, some sugar from eat, some white parts from your hair etc etc that do attract moths, that's simple.