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Standard & Strange: Boots, Leather, & Denim - Official Affiliate Thread

StrangeJeremy

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Hey StyleForum -

I’m Jeremy, the co-founder and co-owner of Standard & Strange alongside Neil who is on here as @StrangeNeil.

We started on this journey in 2012, with a tiny 200 square foot store in a back alley in Oakland, CA. We've grown quite a bit since then, expanding and moving our Oakland store, along with opening up our Santa Fe, NM location.

The very first shop, in Temescal Alley
S&S-2013-May-01.jpg


The name comes from Jane Jacobs's book "The Death and Life of Great American Cities". This profile is worth reading as an introduction to her life and work.

Here's the passage (it's on page 147 of most editions I've seen):
"Cities, however, are the natural homes of supermarkets and standard movie houses plus delicatessens, Viennese bakeries, foreign groceries, art movies, and so on, all of which can be found co-existing, the standard with the strange, the large with the small."

The above shop was in a back alley in Oakland. That building was originally Oakland's municipal stables before falling into disuse when horses stopped being used for transportation and power. Eventually they became storage lockers, and our landlord acquired them with most of our block in the 1970s.

Starting about 15 years ago, she began to convert some of the spaces into little stores over a number of years. When we stumbled into the alley, there was one spot left that hadn't been turned over yet. We saw, said we want it, and signed the lease long before it was even cleaned out for remodeling.

This theme of urban reuse played together with my love of that book. I spotted the above paragraph while re-reading it for inspiration and everything just clicked.

In 2015, we moved around the corner to 5010 Telegraph Avenue where our Oakland store remains. This is actually either the oldest or second oldest masonry building in Oakland. Over the years it had been an Italian restaurant, a hardware store (as you can see from the old sign), and right before us, a yarn/knitting supply shop.

wtdP7291458.JPG



In 2019, we opened up S&S Sante Fe in a former art gallery (thankful for that, because it was completely clean, painted, and had nice floors.)
S&S SAF Shop Photo-07.jpg


When it comes to the brands we sell and the products we make, we focus on the intersection of great people and products that will stand the test of time. We know the people behind all our products, and we don't stock anything that we wouldn't have in our own closets.

Over the nearly 9 years we've been in business, we have circled the globe meeting friends and buying products. It’s been a wild ride, a rollercoaster of ups and downs - like any small business.

The apparel industry is well-known for being extremely opaque when it comes to manufacturing, which has been confounded by a lot of false transparency over the years. That’s not our style, and so, we do that work. We get on planes, we go to factories, we look behind doors, and peer around corners. Every minute is time well-spent in our pursuit of only selling the best in our categories.

We’ve learned how boots are made, and been on the factory floor in multiple countries watching it happen. Same for leather jackets, denim, down to t-shirts and socks. We will happily spend an extra two days on the road if it means we get a personal tour of one of the three remaining loopwheel mills in the world.
Loopwheel_Machines-32.jpeg


None of this would be worth doing, however, without our communities.

Starting in 2020, we have leaned hard into social equality and giving back from our own pockets.

2% of our revenue (that's all the money that comes in the door, not just out of our profit) goes back out to causes we believe in (details in the link). Between that and the other fundraising work we did in 2020, we were able to donate nearly $100k to charity. In addition to the direct giving, we’ve also started a charity raffle series which has raised over $52,000 for food banks and COVID-19 relief funds.

We’re excited to rejoin and participate in the StyleForum community. We’ll have a lot of good stuff to share this year, and we look forward to chatting with everyone here.
 
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LA Guy

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StrangeJeremy

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Welcome back. I for one, wear the Peanuts Company large horse key hook in Sterling Silver from you guys, with some Good Art pendants, daily: https://standardandstrange.com/collections/peanuts-company/products/horse-key-hook-silver-large?variant=8105205825627

Here is a question. Is the horse key hook the same size on the short and long wallet chains?

Cheers,

Fok.
It's the same hook on the keyclip, short keychain, and long wallet chain. I have the short keychain in silver, which wasn't originally a stock item from Peanuts. Yoshiki made it for one of his buddies, and I immediately asked for one for myself - and then a customer saw it and wanted one and so it goes...
 

StrangeJeremy

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welcome :slayer: @StrangeJeremy - I met you way back when in a different life. I was part of the Truman team that came out for the trunk showy back when, had a great time out that there! Happy to have ya here!
Oh man, I remember that visit well! Good to see you on here!
 

danneskjold

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Good to see you guys here. I've been going to the store since before I could afford to buy anything, back when it was in the alley, waiting to get my haircut. Good to see you still around despite many other mens boutiques in the bay shuttering. Proud to wear my COVID Tour T-shirt!
 

StrangeJeremy

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I'll edit this into the main post, but for everyone asking me about the name - it comes from Jane Jacobs's book "The Death and Life of Great American Cities". This profile is worth reading as an introduction to her life and work.

Here's the passage (it's on page 147 of most editions I've seen):
"Cities, however, are the natural homes of supermarkets and standard movie houses plus delicatessens, Viennese bakeries, foreign groceries, art movies, and so on, all of which can be found co-existing, the standard with the strange, the large with the small."

As I mentioned, our first shop was in a back alley in Oakland. That building was originally Oakland's municipal stables before falling into disuse when horses stopped being used for transportation and power. Eventually they became storage lockers, and our landlord acquired them with most of our block in the 1970s.

Starting about 15 years ago, she began to convert some of the spaces into little stores over a number of years. When we stumbled into the alley, there was one spot left that hadn't been turned over yet. We saw, said we want it, and signed the lease long before it was even cleaned out for remodeling.

This theme of urban reuse played together with my love of that book. I spotted the above paragraph while re-reading it for inspiration and everything just clicked.
 

smartbrother

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I'll edit this into the main post, but for everyone asking me about the name - it comes from Jane Jacobs's book "The Death and Life of Great American Cities". This profile is worth reading as an introduction to her life and work.

Here's the passage (it's on page 147 of most editions I've seen):
"Cities, however, are the natural homes of supermarkets and standard movie houses plus delicatessens, Viennese bakeries, foreign groceries, art movies, and so on, all of which can be found co-existing, the standard with the strange, the large with the small."

As I mentioned, our first shop was in a back alley in Oakland. That building was originally Oakland's municipal stables before falling into disuse when horses stopped being used for transportation and power. Eventually they became storage lockers, and our landlord acquired them with most of our block in the 1970s.

Starting about 15 years ago, she began to convert some of the spaces into little stores over a number of years. When we stumbled into the alley, there was one spot left that hadn't been turned over yet. We saw, said we want it, and signed the lease long before it was even cleaned out for remodeling.

This theme of urban reuse played together with my love of that book. I spotted the above paragraph while re-reading it for inspiration and everything just clicked.
Let’s start an S&S book club. Or maybe you can just post a few of your recent faves.
 

StrangeJeremy

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Let’s start an S&S book club. Or maybe you can just post a few of your recent faves.
I'd be down to start a book club, 100%!

You can see everything I've read YTD on my personal IG (@jeremybsmith). In general, I'm trying to read fiction from diverse voices, and non-fiction covering neurodiversity, craft, industry, Japan, China, racial justice (and history).

I strongly suggest anyone who likes clothing read the following 3 books:
Empire of Cotton - Sven Beckert
Fashionopolis - Dana Thomas
The Fabric of Civilization - Virginia Postrel

I'm waiting for this to hit my library:
Unraveled - The Life and Death of a Garment - Maxine Bedat
 

StrangeJeremy

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I should really copy and paste our entire new products email into this thread, but instead I'd rather talk about other stuff. We did get a shitload of new Warehouse online today - and we were on The Grail podcast with Dean Delray yesterday.

-----

IMG_0575.JPG


When Neil & I were sitting down to prepare for the podcast with Dean, we did a deep dive into the topics he slipped us in advance. When it came to Japan, we discovered we had limitless stories from all the trips over there.

Rather than overthinking our story telling, I’m going to just pick a photo or instagram post or some other archival thing from our trips and spin a yarn about it.

The above photo is in Ooe Yofukuten’s workshop in Ichinomiya, a small city just north of Nagoya, Japan. Hiroke Ooe, standing to my right, and her husband Ryo make up the entirety of the company. Just the two of them, making garments one by one to an exceptional standard. Everything they make is absolutely incredible, and we have never been able to keep their jeans in stock, for good reason.

I'd guess this is from late 2016 or early 2017. I’m temporarily wearing the old Denim World Tour OA jeans from 2009 so I can hem my personal pair (OA 1702XX if anyone is keeping track). That particular Union Special, and to be honest, all of Ooe’s machines, runs like butter. We thought our 43200G (that we bought from Roy, yes, that Roy) was running smooth, but this thing was other-worldly. I'll get to why their machines run so well in another post, as Mr. Matsuoka deserves his own.

The 1702XX was our second collaborative release with Ooe, for a fade/wear contest set up by one of our customers. We made 17 pairs in total, and in a moment of total insanity, decided to include a typewritten letter with each pair. We borrowed first one, then another vintage typewriter from one of our friends after breaking the first. The last five of those notes were actually typed up by Hsiang Chin Moe, director of the Kapital World Movie, who happened to be visiting right when I was completely fucking OVER dealing with vintage typewriters while trying to run a store.
 

illiterate

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Will you continue to stock 1st-PAT-RN for the upcoming seasons?
 

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