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Sydney or Melbourne bespoke suit

Wrigglez

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The suit you originally set out to get is very similar if not identical to the Thick as Thieves cut, short skirt, thin lapels, very fitted. my advise is to go to the thick as thieves thread and read through, i had one made by Jason from TaT and it's fantastic, that is if you still want one like the picture. However, i do believe that the suit you had made is much better simply because you will be supporting your local people as tailoring is a dieing art in Australia, i believe (certainly no offence to Jason as his products are fantastic) that my next and there after suit commissions will come from my local Melbourne tailor.

Black shoes are not just black shoes, if you are from australia get some RM williams to appriciate good shoe craftsmenship

Regards
James

edit: your suit fits amazingly in the back and shoulders, but a plain (arms by side standing up straight) picture will give everyone a better position to analyse.

l
 

Reckoner

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Originally Posted by Wrigglez
The suit you originally set out to get is very similar if not identical to the Thick as Thieves cut, short skirt, thin lapels, very fitted. my advise is to go to the thick as thieves thread and read through, i had one made by Jason from TaT and it's fantastic, that is if you still want one like the picture. However, i do believe that the suit you had made is much better simply because you will be supporting your local people as tailoring is a dieing art in Australia, i believe (certainly no offence to Jason as his products are fantastic) that my next and there after suit commissions will come from my local Melbourne tailor.

Black shoes are not just black shoes, if you are from australia get some RM williams to appriciate good shoe craftsmenship

Regards
James

edit: your suit fits amazingly in the back and shoulders, but a plain (arms by side standing up straight) picture will give everyone a better position to analyse.

l


Thanks for this.
I will follow up on those shoes. RM williams I guess ...
I looked at the Thick as Theives website (from Los Angeles??) ... and their products seem very fashionable, with curved edges and very short skirts and trousers. I probably won't wear that too work, but they do look good for dress/casual wear ... if I get a casual/sports jacket I might get it designed like that.
 

AndrewRogers

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Originally Posted by Reckoner
Re; Shoes ...

I've never really understood ... if shoes are black ... how do you really tell what is good quality vs. bad?

I've asked some of my girl friends this, and they say that, despite having shoe fetishes themselves (female shoes) they rarely look at a man's shoes, especially if they're black.

Black is just black.


There is quite a bit to shoes and a good pair can make an outfit; a bad pair ruin it. Take a look at Crockett and Jones (C&J). You can get them for a very good price, about $500 Australian delivered, a pair right now, because of the weak GBP. Google pediwear or plal and they will be the best place to find them right now. You could look into Edward Green or perhaps John Lobb. They will be more than twice, perhaps three times the price of C&J. There are also Vass shoes, which involve far more hand work if you're into that sort of thing. Their prices are great and there's a member here who can get you a pair. His handle is tiger02.

Here's an example of what good looking shoes can do! Yes there are no black shoes there, but there is more to a shoe than its colour.

R0011702tcLarge_2.jpg
 

Reckoner

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I bet if they were all black in that photo, you probably couldn't tell the difference ...
... well maybe the only difference is my cheap shoes are square toed ... whilst these ones are round ... and a bit more shiny ... =)

Just like how my suit couldn't be any different if the fitting were right for OTR or retail.
 

Nuff said

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+1 on not doing up the lower button.

I think the suit looks good. It's hard to tell with both buttons done up but the jacket is close to the borderline of being too tight. You definitely don't want it any more fitted. The temptation with bespoke is push the envelope of fit to the limit. This is fine if if your weight stays constant. Should you put on just a couple of kilos however you run the risk of having a jacket that is too small. I have done this with bespoke shirts in the past and lived to rue the decision. It's always best to allow a little excess material for weight fluctuations.

Skirt length also looks good - in two years time you will be glad you listened to Adamo.
 

AndrewRogers

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Originally Posted by Reckoner
I bet if they were all black in that photo, you probably couldn't tell the difference ... ... well maybe the only difference is my cheap shoes are square toed ... whilst these ones are round ... and a bit more shiny ... =) Just like how my suit couldn't be any different if the fitting were right for OTR or retail.
I think that argument is a bit different. We are not comparing RTW with bespoke shoes here. Most if not all of the shoes you see in that picture will be RTW; I'm not sure about what Luk Cha is wearing as he has quite a few pairs of bespoke G&Gs. PG has some bespoke shoes, but I think he's got on his C&J double monks in that picture. From left to right just about all the shoes have a nice chisel toe last. You have a pair of oxfords on the far left, followed to the right by a pair of derbies which are very nice. Then two more oxfords, the double monks and a pair of derbies with what is sometimes called a split toe, likely done by hand. The darkest brown shoes of them all up the back (to the right of the derbies) have a very high vamp, which leads me to think they'd be a pair of Vass and possibly on the U or F last, but they could be something completely different for all I know. If they were black, I could say exactly the same as none of these features are determined by the colour of the shoe or even the type of leather used: they are all design details down to last and other means of construction. I was not saying your suit looks bad at all, but it seems you are not gaining much from bespoke. However, as you have outlined, you have no financial worries and seem content to spend quite a bit on suits from Adamo. The chap in the photograph you showed Adamo would very likely be wearing a RTW suit.
2e320793f78bfc4b7af1e86f8a795c53.jpg
They're black and not bespoke.
 

Reckoner

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alright then ... I'll get a pair of shoes.
Where do you get these things? oxfords, derbies and vass etc etc ... in Sydney??
 

AndrewRogers

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Originally Posted by Reckoner
alright then ... I'll get a pair of shoes.
Where do you get these things? oxfords, derbies and vass etc etc ... in Sydney??


John Cuttler stocks Edward Green. C&J might be in stock somewhere, but the Internet is your friend. Likewise with Vass, there is no Australian stockist. In fact there are few stockists at all wordlwide, which is why I have recommended tiger02 (search for his sales thread). Also, if you want Edward Green for cheaper than what Cuttler will ask, speak to Tom at Leather Soul Hawaii (he's on the boards and Google this). He is the man when it comes to Green. He is also a very, very nice person to deal with and has great customer service.

These sites may help

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/crockettandjones.php

http://leathersoulhawaii.com/

http://plal.com/main/index.php?page=crockett-and-jones
 

Reckoner

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Originally Posted by AndrewRogers
John Cuttler stocks Edward Green. C&J might be in stock somewhere, but the Internet is your friend. Likewise with Vass, there is no Australian stockist. In fact there are few stockists at all wordlwide, which is why I have recommended tiger02 (search for his sales thread). Also, if you want Edward Green for cheaper than what Cuttler will ask, speak to Tom at Leather Soul Hawaii (he's on the boards and Google this). He is the man when it comes to Green. He is also a very, very nice person to deal with and has great customer service. These sites may help http://www.pediwear.co.uk/crockettandjones.php http://leathersoulhawaii.com/ http://plal.com/main/index.php?page=crockett-and-jones
Okay I know this is off topic ... but one last question. Which style is your favorite? Monk, Derbys, Oxfords ... etc ... or something else not mentioned above I'm looking at the Edward Green stuff. Last question on shoes ... promise.
colgate.gif
 

AndrewRogers

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Originally Posted by Reckoner
Okay I know this is off topic ... but one last question.

Which style is your favorite? Monk, Derbys, Oxfords ... etc ... or something else not mentioned above

I'm looking at the Edward Green stuff.

Last question on shoes ... promise.
colgate.gif


If it helps, the best thing for business would be a pair of black cap-toe oxfords. They are called Chelsea in the Edward Green catalogue. You could consider getting a pair in a nice dark brown, too. A derby has open lacing and is less formal. Monks fall somewhere in between and do not close with laces but with straps and buckles. Check out Tom's site and see what catches your fancy.
 

tchoy

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Rekoner, the suit looks really good. I don't think you want the waist anymore fitted. If you like a more modern look I would ask Adamo to open the quarters a little and have it shorten half an inch perhaps for your next suit ask for a more natural shoulders with less padding.
 

JTA

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The suit is good in my view.
Much better than your Sydney peers nor other business people.

+1 on shoes.
It is imperative to have good shoes in the wardrobe, trust me it will make big differences on your overall outfit if you pair it with good shoes.
 

Sator

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Originally Posted by Sator
Let me warn you, however, that Adamo will talk you out of the short skirt. He will say it makes you look short or that it looks like a women's coat. Don't say I didn't warn you when he does. I say: listen to him. Every tailor in town will pretty much say the same thing. You will have to press really hard and insist on it like crazy for them to let that one out of the cutting room.

I am going to quote myself
smile.gif


What did I tell you? Anyway, Adamo did an excellent job, as always. I'm glad he didn't cut you the Coco Chanel money jacket, as really short lounges look effeminate.
 

aKula

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A pair good quality shoes will make quite a noticable difference. The round or chiseled toe shape is aesthetically harmonious, the square toe is cloddish. The quality is also appreciable, certainly upon close inspection, but also at a distance. You'll come to appreciate the construction and things such as leather soles quite quickly. Women have complimented my shoes before so they'll occasionally take notice as well even if they're not familiar with the various construction techniques and forms (open laced, closed laced, brogues, semi-brogues etc.) of men's shoes.
 

fox81

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Originally Posted by Reckoner
Re; Shoes ...

I've never really understood ... if shoes are black ... how do you really tell what is good quality vs. bad?

I've asked some of my girl friends this, and they say that, despite having shoe fetishes themselves (female shoes) they rarely look at a man's shoes, especially if they're black.

Black is just black.


I could tell from your small and fuzzy photos that your shoes were rubbish, even though they're black.

Have at least one pair of decent black and another decent pair of brown shoes. If your suit is navy, you wear your brown shoes with it.

Decent shoes like ppl have suggested (C&J, Edward Green, etc) are hideously expensive in Australia. Try some on but buy them online. Normally i saw support the retailer, but not if their margins are stupid. Harrolds sells Santoni as well, and they do get marked down from time to time.
 

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