Sydney or Melbourne bespoke suit

[sixtynine]

I would like a bespoke suit made in either Sydney or Melbourne for a budget of around $1500 - $2000 (for a three piece). Of the tailors mentioned on SF, I would be quite happy to go to Sam Disano if not for the fact that I do not want an English-styled suit made.

I am 5' 9", 61kg, sz 28 - 30 pants etc and and quite particular about my clothing being fitted. Whilst I do not want a suit to be overly small, I would much prefer a Napoleon-styled suit.

From previous threads here, Adamo Marrone and John Cutler are likely to be out of the question regarding my budget.

My other alternative would be a Herringbone suit, assuming they're around in March when I am over in Sydney / Melbourne.

Can anyone recommend my options for a Napoleon-styled bespoke suit in Sydney or Melbourne for between $1500 and $2000?

 

[Zenny]

Napoleon was 5' 2", his suits would be way too small on you.

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by sixtynine

Can anyone recommend my options for a Napoleon-styled bespoke suit in Sydney or Melbourne for between $1500 and $2000?

What in heaven's name is a "Napoleon styled suit"?

 

[Zenny]

Originally Posted by GBR

What in heaven's name is a "Napoleon styled suit"?

Neapolitan

 

[GuidoWongolini]

Originally Posted by Zenny

Napoleon was 5' 2", his suits would be way too small on you.
- FUK you are funny! Let's have a drink when I'm next back in SYD!

 

[&Son]

Originally Posted by Zenny

Napoleon was 5' 2", his suits would be way too small on you.

Napoleon was actually closer to 5'6", his perceived shortness is based in a conversion error. Also, he kept standing next to gigantic warhorses in portraits, which doesn't help.

Perhaps the OP is looking for something with a heavily military cut?

 

[Zenny]

Sator will be able to help you out here, alot more than I have

 

[sixtynine]

Originally Posted by Zenny

Neapolitan

eeek.. yes.. that's the one.

 

[Reckoner]

Originally Posted by sixtynine

I would like a bespoke suit made in either Sydney or Melbourne for a budget of around $1500 - $2000 (for a three piece). Of the tailors mentioned on SF, I would be quite happy to go to Sam Disano if not for the fact that I do not want an English-styled suit made. I am 5' 9", 61kg, sz 28 - 30 pants etc and and quite particular about my clothing being fitted. Whilst I do not want a suit to be overly small, I would much prefer a Napoleon-styled suit. From previous threads here, Adamo Marrone and John Cutler are likely to be out of the question regarding my budget. My other alternative would be a Herringbone suit, assuming they're around in March when I am over in Sydney / Melbourne. Can anyone recommend my options for a Napoleon-styled bespoke suit in Sydney or Melbourne for between $1500 and $2000?
Hi there sixtynine, I'm also in the market for a suit (bespoke or mtm or off the rack). I think your best bet is Sam Disano by the looks of things. I think Adamo makes a bespoke for $1800-$2000 but with only cheaper materials. You can try that. Right now, I'm having a hard time deciding between the following: 1. expensive off the rack WITH after-purchase alterations = $1500-$2000 2. or a fully bespoke from Cutler or Adamo = $3500-$6500. From my naked eye I can't really see the difference so long as it FITS. I'd like to spend that money elsewhere too (will be traveling later on this year, and would like to purchase a professional camera) ... so the opportunity cost and uncertainty/indecision about spending the $$ is killing me. My feeling about this all is similar to my experience with my shirts; I have had some tailor made shirts for $300-$400, in the beginning it's all exciting and all, getting it custom made ... but after you've had it for a while and wear it often and it becomes a normal thing the euphoria sort of wears off ... (is that what they call "consumerism"??) Anyone would like to help with any advice? Anyways, all the best with your suit, do keep us posted and possibly add pictures with your Disano experience. (I will give Sam a visit too just to see how his work is structured). Cheers.

 

[Sator]

Actually, I have had a much more careful look into the innards of a Disano suit. It isn't that structured at all, at least not compared to what I regard as traditionally structured. Then again, that's probably more structured than anything from Savile Row anyway. In fact, apart from the stronger shoulder, the Disano front is less structured. If you inspect under the bonnet, the workmanship on a Marone coat is very impressive. It is well worth the extra cost. The thing is Sam knows how to make a much more high end and intricately constructed coat. If only he didn't waste so much time running a little alterations store. If he devoted himself to bespoke tailoring he could do great things. That fellow knows a hell of a lot. So with Sam you get what you pay for, and what he makes is still good value, especially with your own cloth. Even if you go to another tailor for coats and lounge suits, he is still great for odd trousers, and waistcoats. But the boys who do his tailoring are older than Sam, and they want to retire for good. If only one of the three boys retires, it's all over. Get your orders in pretty soon, because it may only last another year or so.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by GBR

What in heaven's name is a "Napoleon styled suit"?

Looking for a "Neopolitan suit" (is that a court suit or a lounge suit?) out of Naples is equally silly. Certain individuals on SF have brainwashed forumites into thinking that unpadded shoulders and this ridiculous spalla camicia thing are the bee's knees. There is also a great deal of variability from Neapolitan tailor to tailor - enough to negate the notion of a cookie cutter Neapolitan cut. Furthermore, there is the claim that Rubinacci make a drape cut sack coat. When I quizzed Iammatt about details of construction, it confirmed that it is not really a proper drape cut at all. The fullness in the chest is as much a function of ironwork and the deployment of darts in what is a front-cut lounge coat. It even has an underarm dart extending into the armscye - which should not be there on a proper drape (?droop) cut lounge.

What these American forumites are describing with their idealised A&S and Neapolitan soft-drape cut coat is actually a stereotypical American sack coat with a loose and sacky cut and unpadded shoulders. With the demise of the American school of "custom tailoring", Americans now search the globe looking for the lost American sack coat. Please, don't go following them like a pack of lemmings.

 

[merkur]

..

 

[Sator]

I have just about said as much to Vox. FNB wouldn't disagree with me at all. Manton wouldn't be too offended. I am just saying that Americans have their Classical New England ivy league sort of tastes (more Manton than FNB), which is fine by me - it works for them. I am not an American, and have different tastes. Give me multi-layered chest pieces of the springiest horse cloth, heavy wool-horsehair canvas, full bodied cloth, and classical tailoring - form fitted to show off the natural contour of the body with clean and idealised shoulders. In this Jeffreyd and I see eye to eye.

EDIT: here you go - I say it straight to Vox and Alden.

 

[Reckoner]

Originally Posted by Sator

Actually, I have had a much more careful look into the innards of a Disano suit. It isn't that structured at all, at least not compared to what I regard as traditionally structured. Then again, that's probably more structured than anything from Savile Row anyway. In fact, apart from the stronger shoulder, the Disano front is less structured. If you inspect under the bonnet, the workmanship on a Marone coat is very impressive. It is well worth the extra cost. The thing is Sam knows how to make a much more high end and intricately constructed coat. If only he didn't waste so much time running a little alterations store. If he devoted himself to bespoke tailoring he could do great things. That fellow knows a hell of a lot. So with Sam you get what you pay for, and what he makes is still good value, especially with your own cloth. Even if you go to another tailor for coats and lounge suits, he is still great for odd trousers, and waistcoats. But the boys who do his tailoring are older than Sam, and they want to retire for good. If only one of the three boys retires, it's all over. Get your orders in pretty soon, because it may only last another year or so.
Okay ... well ... has there been a topic/board where people have posted photos of Adamo's work? That would be very helpful. I think more photos would be very helpful. I'm really thinking about Adamo, since I'm looking for that slim fit, continental/European look. (as opposed to an English or Brooks Brothers/American slacks-look). asianromeo's photos of Cutler's bespoke process on facebook was extremely helpful. It gave me a lot more respect for Cutler. I went to a local unknown tailor about 15mins from me ... it was like a little alley way, run-down ... you would be scared to walk in there ... materials and fabric books are old as heck with dust all over them. I've been traveling around to all the major stores/tailors in Sydney the last few days and most of them say something along the lines of "boy, you've really done your research haven't you??". All thanks to everyone here. Hopefully I will be satisfied for paying $2000-$6000 for a suit. Thanks again to all posters, this has been very helpful.

 

[Reckoner]

okay so here's a photo of something i'm looking for:

Slim fit, single-breasted, light-weight, with little padding ... would Adamo (or anyone else) be able to do this? I'm guessing he is ... since he's a tailor for that Italian/european look. I will go with the tailor that is best able to do that for me.