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Sydney or Melbourne bespoke suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by sixtynine, Jan 27, 2009.

  1. Reckoner

    Reckoner Well-Known Member

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    Jan 31, 2009
    Location:
    Sydney
    So I'll give Adamo a visit today or tomorrow. He seems the best man for the job. Here are more pictures of the sort of style that I'm looking for. I've looked all over Sydney (David Jones, Henry Bucks, Hugo Boss stores, Anthony Squires, O'Connel St, Pitt St Mall stores etc etc) to find a more european style, all to my disappointment. Department stores usually try and predict what the masses will buy, and manufacture those in volume. Original posted picture: [​IMG] Some before and afters: Before & After: [​IMG] [​IMG] Before & After: [​IMG] [​IMG] Before & After: [​IMG] [​IMG] Before & After: [​IMG] [​IMG] This looks a bit too feminine to be honest ... Some nice general grey/charcoal suit looks : [​IMG] [​IMG] I also really like the last image on the right, that and the top/original posted picture is exactly what I'm after. Adamo is the man for this job? Anyone have any opinions? Or do I just have funny taste? [​IMG]
     
  2. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Adamo is the man for this job? Anyone have any opinions?
    Or do I just have funny taste? [​IMG][/quote]

    Adamo won't have any problems making a slim fitting suit. he is making a single button suit for me now that is going to be quite fitted. I have to agree with Sator that he won't be happy making a suit that is too short. show him a picture of what you want and listen to him. You can adjust skirt length during fitting stages. If it's your first bespoke suit you don't want something that is too fashionable you won't able to wear in two years time.
     
  3. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Senior member

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    Houston, Texas
    Some before and afters:

    Who knew a pocket square could make so much of a difference?
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Matt, there really is a misconception going around that Rubinacci cut a sacky drape cut coat, and that alongside A&S they represent one of the leading practitioners of the drape cut. There are LL posts where people talk about A&S and Rubinacci in the same breath. I'm glad you don't suffer that misunderstanding.

    Well, I have the vague understanding that a drape cut is a different way of cutting a jacket, not merely an issue of fullness. But that goes directly to my point. Most of us are not even remotely as knowledgeable about tailoring as you. When people compare A&S to Rubinacci, they may not be doing so with reference to the cut at all--even if they use the term 'drape cut'. More likely, they are talking about appearance, and I can clearly see the basis for comparison in that respect. Drape cut or not, both are 'soft' and have natural shoulders; both have fullness in the chest. If I did not wear Rubinacci, I might turn to A&S.

    The ideal of having a full chest is as old as tailoring, dating way back before the age of drape. It seems everyone wants to find drape in coats, and imagines it where it doesn't really exist.

    Again, whatever you want to call it, the fullness in a jacket is plainly distinguishable in its own right. Preference for this fullness may have nothing to do with a preference for a drape cut, as correctly defined.
     
  5. misterjase

    misterjase Senior member

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    what about a suit from Cantarelli? the look is continental. i am sure the cut is slimmer than most. hence, could be close to what is wanted.
     
  6. AndrewRogers

    AndrewRogers Senior member

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    what about a suit from Cantarelli? the look is continental. i am sure the cut is slimmer than most. hence, could be close to what is wanted.

    Indeed, do not discount RTW so quickly.
     
  7. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Indeed, do not discount RTW so quickly.

    +1.

    If you really want something particular (such as Sator - he has very particular tastes and is very knowledgeable and able to explain precisely what he wants) then by all means, go the bespoke route.

    However, there are plenty of RTW suits around that should meet your needs (even given the paucity of choice available in Australia). I believe that Harrolds stocks Caruso - have you had a look there and tried it on? They certainly have a slim cut. Also, I don't know if RL Black Label is available in Sydney but if so, it could be worth trying on (and it is made by Caruso). Herringbone has a slim cut, too, and their jackets tend to have a fairly cutaway "skirt" that is not too long.

    Also, if you prefer a short skirt to your jacket, you can usually have it taken up by an inch or so on an RTW suit.
     
  8. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    There is, in my view, a yawning gap in the difference between a slim cut bespoke lounge suit and an altered RTW one. I can tell you that a tailor with a good eye like Adamo can make a huge difference, especially for a customer who knows few technical details about cutting and tailoring.

    Reckoner obviously wants a very fashionable looking slim cut coat and trousers. His youthful exuberance and desire for one or two excessively fashiony details would be well tempered by an experienced tailor. But for a really fitted coat to work, and look elegant, in my mind it has to be bespoke so that it follows every contour. Fiddling around with RTW is pot-luck. I have immeasurably more confidence in Adamo than in the gamble that the RTW route will involve.

    The thing about Adamo is that in the 1970's he made a lot of very fashion forward stuff. That was his speciality. I've seen old photos of stuff that look like something from a Brioni '70s catalogue. He is still very up to date with what is fashionable, but his years of experience engenders a much more mature garment of a man who has seen fleeting fashion fall by the wayside. Still, he always has an eye for ensuring that the cut is never staid, and always elegant.
     
  9. Reckoner

    Reckoner Well-Known Member

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    Jan 31, 2009
    Location:
    Sydney
    Okay so I visited Adamo yesterday. Very knowledgeable and experienced. So I've gone through the process and all. I took me a long time to decide what fabric. So he told me to think about it and come back again. So I'm looking at the fabric books in the 2500-3200 range. I can't decide between: 1. solid dark grey/charcoal 2. some textured dark grey with patterns/textured (not pinstripe) --> the textured patterns makes it look classy. Like this but more striking/texture: [​IMG] So I'm a bit inexperienced with regards to fabric ... question: Which fabric quality/book in general? I'm looking at the Dormeiul and Harrison book right now ... they're in my price range. I would like the "summer" range, b/c they're lighter and shinier ... but it's out of my price range at this point. I think it's important to keep in mind this principle: "fit comes before fabric" This is a business suit, so dark grey/charcoal is a good color. But I just don't want it to be plain and solid, if that's the case then I could have just went and bought a Zegna off the rack with alterations and it would look similar ... and b/c Adamo said it looks like you're a school boy if you just get it plain/solid and you can't tell that it's cheap or expensive from afar .... Anyone got any questions about the whole experience please ask. Or advice ... feel free to give it too. Regards. (BTW ... here's a video of the tailoring process or what life is like as a Saville Row tailior in the UK; it's called "Tailor Made in Cumbria": http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...ade+in+cumbria
     
  10. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Go for the Harrisons or Lesser books.
     
  11. Reckoner

    Reckoner Well-Known Member

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    Go for the Harrisons or Lesser books.
    what's wrong with dormeiul? or ... why harrisons or lesser's?
     
  12. AndrewRogers

    AndrewRogers Senior member

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    b/c Adamo said it looks like you're a school boy if you just get it plain/solid and you can't tell that it's cheap or expensive ... I want it to look classy.
    Hmph, surely, from what we have heard about the mythical Adamo, you would know that, by its cut and fit, a suit by him would be 'expensive' and that there would be no reason for flashy designs nor to dispense with solids. It is alarming that he might think a suit from him has the ability to look cheap or like a schoolboy's uniform. Also, at what school do children wear suits, as opposed to trousers and a blazer?
     
  13. pdizzle

    pdizzle Member

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    Apr 25, 2006
    I think Adamo's preference is to guide clients towards cloths with a little bit of detail. For instance, I wanted a plain navy suit, as my first bespoke item, but he suggested herringbone which catches the eye upon closer inspection. 2 years on, I"m glad he made the suggestion.

    There are boys' schools here in Sydney where student wear suits, with the blazer being reserved for wear during sporting activities.
     
  14. Reckoner

    Reckoner Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 31, 2009
    Location:
    Sydney
    It is alarming that he might think a suit from him has the ability to look cheap or like a schoolboy's uniform. Also, at what school do children wear suits, as opposed to trousers and a blazer?
    I think Adamo's preference is to guide clients towards cloths with a little bit of detail. For instance, I wanted a plain navy suit, as my first bespoke item, but he suggested herringbone which catches the eye upon closer inspection. 2 years on, I"m glad he made the suggestion. There are boys' schools here in Sydney where student wear suits, with the blazer being reserved for wear during sporting activities.
    No it's just when you look from afar, and all you see is grey or charcoal, you can't really distinguish the suit vs. a RTW if that has the same colour. School kids tend to wear dark grey that's why ... so Adamo recommended that it was best I add some detail to give it a more trendier business look whilst also being suitable for my age group. Now ... he didn't recommend a more expensive fabric, he just thought that I should choose something within the same fabric book that either had some texture or light pinstripe that was not too aggressive to detract away from the overall conservative charcoal/grey business look. He even told me that because I was younger, that it wasn't necessary to go for an expensive, "luxury" fabric right now. In the end I chose a dark charcoal with some very faint/light blue pinstripes. I'm very happy I did, since just a plain solid grey was too old/conservative that didn't match my age group and youthful athletic look. He gives very good advice when needed, but also refrains from giving advice when he thinks he's diluting the client's decision making process. Overall, a very good experience. I'm very glad I went through the process, as I've been wanting to go through the bespoke experience for a long time now, despite it's heavy price tag. You get to see the inner workings of how a suit is made, and come away from it with cumulative knowledge on fabric, labor, style, and construction that will aid in future purchases. If you care about your appearance, whether for work/client-facing reasons or just personal reasons, and would like to gain some knowledge to boot, then bespoke is the way to go.
     
  15. Reckoner

    Reckoner Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 31, 2009
    Location:
    Sydney
    An update on my Adamo commission So after about 3 months or so ... Here's how my charcoal/business bespoke suit with light pin-stripes turned out, would like some honest opinions and feedback. 1. Is the jacket length too long compared to what I was originally after? 2. And is it too baggy? not fitting enough? I could have made it even more fitting, however it's really tight to get into if that was the case. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] ------------------ I was hoping to get it cut shorter something like this, or maybe longer, however Adamo wouldn't budge on the issue, he said it wasn't advisable for long term reasons: [​IMG] My original picture I showed him: [​IMG] I'd be interested in what Sator has to say. BTW Sator, I've registered for your new website ... I wasn't sure whether it was appropriate to put this post up on your site, or here, b/c your site is a "cutter's and tailor's" site ...
     
  16. Zenny

    Zenny Senior member

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    Goldcoast, Australia
    Looks great mate.

    The button stance looks a bit strange if it's a 2 button. But I guess thats just me.
     
  17. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jan 21, 2009
    Location:
    Australia
    An update on my Adamo commission

    So after about 3 months or so ... Here's how my charcoal/business bespoke suit with light pin-stripes turned out, would like some honest opinions and feedback.

    1. Is the jacket length too long compared to what I was originally after?
    2. And is it too baggy? not fitting enough? I could have made it even more fitting, however it's really tight to get into if that was the case.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]


    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    ------------------

    I was hoping to get it cut shorter something like this, or maybe longer, however Adamo wouldn't budge on the issue, he said it wasn't advisable for long term reasons:

    [​IMG]

    My original picture I showed him:

    [​IMG]


    I'd be interested in what Sator has to say.
    BTW Sator, I've registered for your new website ... I wasn't sure whether it was appropriate to put this post up on your site, or here, b/c your site is a "cutter's and tailor's" site ...


    Suit looks more than fine to me. Congrats, well done. May I ask what it cost you?
     
  18. Reckoner

    Reckoner Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Sydney
    Suit looks more than fine to me. Congrats, well done. May I ask what it cost you?

    bout 3K including all the traveling back and forth for measurings and fittings.
     
  19. lifeonmars

    lifeonmars Member

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    Mar 24, 2009
    Thanks for updating us with the results. That suit is head and shoulders above what you generally see around Sydney. I wanted a really short jacket just for fun, so I had a cheap (fused) suit made in HK. The tailor told me that some super-trendy Japanese guys have been getting jackets made that barely go down to the belt [​IMG] Short jackets may be in fashion at the moment, but mine will probably be in the charity bin within a couple of years, and I definately won't be wearing it to work. Listening to Adamo on the length issue was a good decision.
     
  20. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    bout 3K including all the traveling back and forth for measurings and fittings.

    That suit will last you many years to come, especially if you take good care of it and will always look stylish. That's money well spent, I think.
     

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