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Dan Dynamic

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Do pleated shoulders provide any function or is it just mere aesthetics? I am going to order a custom jacket with measurements taken physically at a store.
 

tilesomoole

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Do pleated shoulders provide any function or is it just mere aesthetics? I am going to order a custom jacket with measurements taken physically at a store.
It's mainly aesthetics. Shirred shoulders are the least structured of the common types and provide a more relaxed, less formal appearance than most other styles - see reference image.

They can serve a practical function as well. I prefer them because my shoulders are wide, but my actual clavicles are fairly short, with my delts sticking out further than most guys'. That makes me prone to shoulder divots and weird nipple-shapes with OTR roped or more structured shoulders.

So, if I'm going MTM (as I do with SS), I usually opt for a shirred shoulder as it minimizes these problems.


I hope that's helpful to you in some way.

1672011928038.png
 

Dan Dynamic

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It's mainly aesthetics. Shirred shoulders are the least structured of the common types and provide a more relaxed, less formal appearance than most other styles - see reference image.

They can serve a practical function as well. I prefer them because my shoulders are wide, but my actual clavicles are fairly short, with my delts sticking out further than most guys'. That makes me prone to shoulder divots and weird nipple-shapes with OTR roped or more structured shoulders.

So, if I'm going MTM (as I do with SS), I usually opt for a shirred shoulder as it minimizes these problems.


I hope that's helpful to you in some way.

View attachment 1871643
From what I have read shirred shoulders have the advantage that you can fit a larger sleeve into a small armhole. It seems like 20 more dollars for shirred shoulders and hence more comfort is worth it but I am gonna try it.
 

steiger

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I have a pair of their trousers in grey woolen circular flannel. The material is very comfortable, but I teared the crotch quite quickly. As a Dutchman, I do cycle a lot, so this probably contributed to the blowout. I think the blowout happened after wearing the trousers fifteen times. In the SuSu shop, they've told there's nothing the tailors could do about it. So I did the job myself and zigzagged an old grey cotton t-shirt to fix the gap:

View attachment 1862065
View attachment 1862066
View attachment 1862069

ymmv, but in my opinion it's not very hard wearing.

I'v had same experience. Blown up 3 different flannel trousers in the past years.
First pair was i size EU48 Braddon trouser. SS wanted me to send them a fitpic and according to them they fit fine and weren't too tight. I got a new pair for free and opted to go a size larger (EU50) and I took the waist in aprox 5cm. They had more room in the crotch and upper thighs but still a little tight when I sit down. A couple months later I ordered another pair in a different color. This was spring 2021. Both ripped this winter in the space of two months after one winter/fall use (used 2-3 times a week max).
This time Suitsupply offered med 20% off for a different trouser but nothing more. And according to their fit specialist a size down fit me well!
Unfortunately I ordered a suit in flannel but this time custom made so I'v got a lot more room in the upper thighs and crotch so hopefully they'll hold up better.
I also noticed on my tipped pairs how much thinner the fabric had become on the ripped area (seat/crotch) when I compered it with the fabric of the legs. I would not recommend the SS flannel trouser to anyone.
 

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