St. Crispin's MTO or G&G/Lobb RETAIL

[elegant_cossack]

Background: I'm a long time lurker of the forum and generally versed on the subject. Current shoe-wear: John Lobbs and Edward Greens.

Question: At $1500 price range I can add another G&G (or Lobb) shoes to my collection or I can attempt at something more customizable from Saint Crispin's MTO program. I recognize that all the brands I mentioned are well respected ateliers, so I may be splitting hairs here.

I'd like to hear your thought process behind making such a decision, with consideration to overall craftsmanship and stylistic options.

 

[Anachronist]

If you already have G&Gs, EGs and JLs in your collection, the St.Crispins might just be that welcome addition towards more diversity in the shoe closet. They are definitely impeccably made and, at least the RTW ones I tried on once in Frankfurt/Germany, were in my opinion absolutely on par with the aforementioned makers. What prevented me from buying them at them at the time was the significantly different fit of the last... much tighter/narrower than EG in the same size for instance and a (to me) slightly uncomfortably high arch... at least that is what I recall, but this is some years back. Made to measure may therefore well be the best way to go if you're trying them out for the first time

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

To answer your question it helps to provide some context. I own many pairs of EG, JL, and used to own G&G. I also own StCs.

For that price, StC is a no-brainer. The easiest point to make is in regards to customization. The StC you can pretty much change anything you wish. From leather color, leather type, last, soles, metal tips can be altered. The real selling point though is the construction. Here is the main difference as it pertains to what your $1500 gets you. The Hand-welted hand-lasted shoe is essentially the same shoe made (minus a hand-sewn sole) as a Bespoke shoe.

Just think about this, a Good Year construction welt-stitching machine (which EG, JL, G&G employ) probably takes less than a minute to make one pair. Hand sewing/welting takes about 20 minutes per shoe, or 40 minutes per pair.
In other words, the hand-sewer stitches one pair while the machine worker makes 40 pairs after 40 or so minutes.
To me, I kind of value my $1500. I want someone to sweat and work their butt off haha. So with the StC shoe, that will definitely happen.

In terms of fit, the StC definitely provides a sturdy hold on your foot. It feels like you are really strapped into them. I would also add the additional arch support is present and most welcomed. Styling wise, it is not trim as the G&G but I rather like that. It is more inline with EG.