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spoon tailor -hong kong bespoke operation in San Francisco

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Gong Tao, Feb 13, 2011.

  1. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Senior member

    Messages:
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    Feb 9, 2012
    Location:
    Wish I were in Japan right now...
    Since you are so tall, I would suggest get window pane pattern or POW or something with a bit horizontal pattern to make you look wider. As for the board shoulders, get soft shoulders with minimal to no padding to make them look "normal".
     
  2. Archivist

    Archivist Senior member

    Messages:
    688
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    Jan 23, 2010
    

    In addition to a soft shoulder, you might want a swelled chest to balance your thin chest. Have a look at some of the stuff in the Anderson and Sheppard Expats thread for ideas
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/67722/the-anderson-sheppard-expatriates-thread/0_100
     
  3. geeta

    geeta New Member

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    Feb 28, 2014
    Hi! Can you please email me a photo of your shirt? I am trying to help my boyfriend deal with his shirt issue and I think a photo will help me convince him to try this shop you are talking about. my email address is maryjennings773@gmail.com
    thank you!
     
  4. beyondmars2020

    beyondmars2020 Senior member

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    Jun 29, 2010
    Andy Gorges is an excellent tailor and even better person.
     
  5. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    

    He is indeed an excellent person. However, I disagree about on his tailoring skill.
    He basically ruined a pair of cavalry twills of mine during the 90s when he
    was the tailor at the Hound and had private clients- which would be me, when
    he had extra time. I still have the unwearable pants if further proof is needed.
     
  6. katabatic

    katabatic Senior member

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    Nov 4, 2012
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    San Francisco
    The 90s was 20 years ago now - perhaps he's improved in the two-ish decades since?
     
  7. hooligan

    hooligan New Member

    Messages:
    3
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    Aug 17, 2014
    hi, folks
    i was hoping to get some opinions on a suit and shirt i had made by spoon. i'm not well-versed in classic menswear, so i'm not really sure what i'm looking for and the guys at spoon tend to rely more on your direction. i believe this is the sixth time i've been in to spoon to try and get the fit right, but every time i come in, my concerns haven't been fully addressed.
    i've got a fairly muscular build with about an 8" drop, maybe a bit more. the first cut was so form fitting, it created an hourglass silhouette. i had them let it out and then let out again, and again. now it's starting to feel pretty loose in the chest, but now i can raise my arms comfortably and the "X" around the top button has subsided (tho in pictures, it still appears to be there).
    shirt: seems the shirt would benefit from some darting.
    suit: from the front, it looks pretty good. from the back, there is some extra fabric behind my left shoulder blade, a lot of bunching behind my thighs (which andrew says they can correct by removing some excess fabric - 2nd photo with excess pinned), and it's not noticeable in the picture, but there is puckering along the right side jacket seam, which i think is related to another issue where the vent on the right side is not laying the same as the left side (right side ends up gapping).
    suggestions and opinions appreciated. thanks!
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    Last edited: Aug 17, 2014
  8. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Location:
    San Francisco
    It looks to be pulling a bit in the front. The back, the wrinkles seem to be from the shirt and there seems to be something a bit off on the pants. The coat seems a bit long.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2014
  9. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    It was a very basic screw up. Lowering the rise is not "rocket science" for a professional
    tailor. I have someone for the past decade or so who always does exceptional quality work,
    some of it quite complicated. My only concern is that he'll retire soon.
     
  10. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    hooligan

    Post: 1
    Joined: 8/2014

    "i've got a fairly muscular build with about an 8" drop, maybe a bit more. the first cut was so form fitting, it created an hourglass silhouette. i had them let it out and then let out again, and again. now it's starting to feel pretty loose in the chest, but now i can raise my arms comfortably and the "X" around the top button has subsided (tho in pictures, it still appears to be there"

    You indeed have a muscular build and do not need the built up shoulders that Spoon gave you.
    I would have them re-done if possible. Full disclosure; I was at Spoon a few months ago and inquired
    about them making me a tweed jacket. They said that they didn't do tweed, nor would they work with my fabric.
    Based on the silhouette of your jacket, I think I lucked out.
     
  11. hooligan

    hooligan New Member

    Messages:
    3
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    Aug 17, 2014
    

    Yes, I'm losing faith. Might I ask who your tailor is? I may give up on spoon and take it elsewhere.
     
  12. Praneeth22

    Praneeth22 Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 11, 2014
    I was at Spoon Tailor earlier today looking to order a suit for frequent wear. I was looking for a 110s and Calvin suggested the Vbc 110s which he said was on sale for 1099 from something like 1400 regular. They had other fabric options for 899 and 999 as well with higher count I think the $999 was 150s material. I ordered the Vbc 110s for 1099 thinking I was getting good value. Did I make the right call? This is for a regular use business suit so I wanted durability. Should the vbc 110s have been cheaper? Thanks!
     
  13. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    RWC, CA
    I was there yesterday too. Was that you around lunchtime? I ordered my first pair of flannel pants so I'm eager to see how those come out.

    Anyway, I'm not at all in the know about fabric prices, but I do know @sugarbutch used to also stop by spoon so maybe he can help here.
     
  14. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Did that wrong on mobile. @sugarbutch might be able to help.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Praneeth22

    Praneeth22 Member

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    Thanks! If it was around 2pm,that was me :)

    Went in today for the first fitting. I was told no way around the X at the top button for the style I wanted, which I was a bit disappointed about. It definitely felt they would do anything you told them to, however crazy, no questions asked. I don't know how I feel about that, I'm not expert enough to give that kind of guidance.
     
  16. Praneeth22

    Praneeth22 Member

    Messages:
    23
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    Nov 11, 2014
    Picked up the jacket today. Pants are being shortened a little bit. There is some bunching around the shoulders that I'm not a huge fan of but looks good otherwise I think. Would love any input on needed alterations or other feedback. Thanks!

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  17. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Location:
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    The last photo, the arms seem to be something wrong with all the fabric twisting.
     
  18. Praneeth22

    Praneeth22 Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 11, 2014
    

    Thanks. You're right, particularly on the right side I think. I'll ask Spoon what they can do about it. Hopefully fixable.
     
  19. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Yes, and the odd thing is that the sleeve length looks about right.
     
  20. Praneeth22

    Praneeth22 Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 11, 2014
    Picked up the shortened pants, so this is the full suit from Spoon Tailor in SF. Jacket still needs some work I think and the pants unless I pull up from the back wrinkles as seen in some of the pictures.

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    Waist pulled up a bit from behind:
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