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spoon tailor -hong kong bespoke operation in San Francisco

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Gong Tao, Feb 13, 2011.

  1. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    Jan 17, 2011
    Moi moi Uunottaja! You've got an excellent blog with a lot of substance. I spent one summer in Helsinki years ago and it was an unforgettable experience (mixed sex sauna, salmiakki and all). If you ever come to the San Francisco bay area let me know.

     
  2. Uunottaja

    Uunottaja Senior member

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    Mar 28, 2011
    Location:
    Finland
    

    Heh, hello hello. I was actually in SF just last spring (Just missed the StyleForum get together). A lovely city, I have to say, and one of the styliest too.

    And about the Paoloni. It's an Italian brand making Lubiam or Boglioli like stuff for a lower price. The quality is alright, sizing quite small. You can find it for good prices at Yoox and other Italian Internet outlets. I personally prefer a semi-bumfreezer, length that covers about 60-60% of my buttocks. In suits a full-length jacket often works better though.
     
  3. pepethepug

    pepethepug New Member

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    2
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    Feb 5, 2013
    Hey Folks,

    I am new to this forum and needed to get some input. I just received my first Spoon suit. I am about 5' 7" and weight about 125 lbs and I have always found it difficult to buy a suit because I am thin. Anyplace I would go to would try to fit me into a 36 regular suit. I looked awful and never wore suits.

    About a month ago I found out about Spoon and decided to visit and buy a suit. I feel that the suit fit better than anything I have ever put on but it is still not perfect. I need the insight from members so I can tell the folks how to adjust the suit. I have attached some pictures. Thanks in advance for your help.
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  4. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Senior member

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    Feb 9, 2012
    Location:
    Wish I were in Japan right now...
     
  5. pepethepug

    pepethepug New Member

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    2
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    Feb 5, 2013
    Thanks for your help gentlemen. It ended up costing about 1100 dollars. I went back to Spoon today and they are fixing the shoulders. They are making them smaller and making sleeves shorter and slimmer.

    In the picture I was leaning to one side because I was trying to adjust the camera a sec earlier.

    I will keep you guys posted.

    Thanks again.

    Noel
     
  6. jakeyt

    jakeyt Senior member

    Messages:
    284
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    Mar 10, 2010
    anyone have any new experience with spoon? hows the fabrics/quality of the starter bespoke shirt?
     
  7. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

    Messages:
    1,455
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    Nov 9, 2010
    Location:
    RWC, CA
    Picked up my first shirt from Spoon. Can't make any kind of final judgement until it gets worn/washed a few times, and it should be noted that I don't have much experience with custom shirting, but all in all I think it came out well. This was the entry-level fabric range at a price of $95+tax.

    About Me
    At 5'5" 140lbs it's typically the length of the arms that is the most annoying part of buying dress shirts off the rack. For comparison, H&M small shirts are ok but a little narrow at the shoulder. JCrew extra-small is good at the shoulders and body but the arms are too long, the cuffs only have one button that makes them far too large, and they have a 13-13.5 collar that lessens my will to live. Honestly I don't know what kind of person has a tiny neck, long arms, and fat wrists, but I digress. And nothing at Banana Republic fits well - although I haven't bought any x-smalls online from them.

    In general, the prospect of custom shirts in the $100 ballpark is very appealing to me. From what I understand they do Thomas Mason and other nicer fabrics at $120+tax.

    Fabric & Features
    Although there is certainly more you could specify, I requested the following:
    • A white, textured fabric with a cross-hatch pattern
    • Spread collar (they asked)
    • No chest pocket (they asked)
    • No darts on the back (they asked)
    • Normal plackets (they asked)
    • Rounded barrel cuff (they asked)
    • Higher armholes than might be their house cut (I asked)
    • A narrower bicep than might be their house cut (I asked)

    Experience
    My measurements were taken quickly and easily, and the expectations were proper on both sides that tweaks would be expected on the first go. It took three weeks for the shirt to come back. As mentioned prior in this thread, the shirts are made in China and adjusted here. For suits, the fabric is cut here by the master tailor and sent to China for assembly but in all cases the tailoring is done locally.

    When the shirt came back it was already looking pretty close. Shoulders needed no adjustment, length seemed shorter to me than usual (but only because of my height - shirts are almost always comically long on me, even the casual ones), and the construction seemed solid. I realized then that the fabric I chose was quite heavyweight and prone to wrinkling. You can seriously pinch this stuff like play-doh and crease it. Suppose that might go away a bit as it gets washed and beat up.

    These are the adjustments that we made on the fitting:
    1. Chest taken in about an inch
    2. Armholes raised by about 1/2 inch
    3. Biceps slimmed a bit more
    4. Button moved in on the cuff so that the cuff would be tighter (and I actually think I might go a bit more on this when I visit next as I still want it to sit up a bit more on my wrist)

    Final Fit & Photos
    Here is the finished product - hope the pictures can convey the fit properly. The arms look a bit long in the picture, but when I asked in the store if we should go shorter he had me do the "raise you arms" test to show where the shirt stops when I do that -- to recommend not going further. I don't think it matters too much, though, since I will only wear this shirt with a jacket, under a sweater, or with the sleeves rolled up anyway.

    Definitely interested in feedback I can use for next time, or questions about my experience if you want to know more. Hope this helps anyone considering using Spoon. But no matter what it wouldn't hurt to go over there and talk to them/check out fabrics.

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    Collar points
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    Collar back
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    Cuff
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    Placket
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    Last edited: Aug 4, 2013
  8. jakeyt

    jakeyt Senior member

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    Mar 10, 2010
    Looks like a good shirt. It drapes off the chest nicely. I agree about the arms, seems like there's plenty of length.. maybe too much. That would be my only critique.

    You mentioned the fabric is uite heavyweight and prone to wrinkling... are you satisfied with the quality of fabric? Does it feel nice to the skin?
     
  9. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Nov 9, 2010
    Location:
    RWC, CA
    I think it feels nice. It's not rough at all, just a bit stiff. I have relatively limited knowledge about fabric quality on the whole, but I'd imagine this is just one of those thicker shirts due to the weave, and I'd be inclined to believe they're not all this way. They have all of the fabric books for you to review; you're not choosing from a picture or anything.

    I'll see what they say about the sleeve length. Not sure how much is the length and how much is the thickness of the fabric but I do tend to think it could be shorter as you've agreed.

    I'm having a linen one done now to see how a more unstructured shirt goes. I'll send over these pics as reference and post the linen when I get it in a couple of weeks.

    Hope that helps!
     
  10. jakeyt

    jakeyt Senior member

    Messages:
    284
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    Mar 10, 2010
    Are the fabric qualities different in every book (e.g. is one Thomas Mason?) How well does the fabric move with you?

    After second look, the length of the arm doesn't look bad. Just longer than my taste.
     
  11. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

    Messages:
    1,455
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    Nov 9, 2010
    Location:
    RWC, CA
    I'm really not sure if each $95-level book is different in terms of the mill or the quality - I'll take a closer look next time I'm there. I do know they said they have Thomas Mason; just haven't gone through those books yet. And the shirt hasn't gone on it's inaugural voyage yet but I'm thinking this week so I'll let you know how it feels after wearing it for a day.

    I emailed them about the sleeves anyway. It looks better in some pics than others, and I may not touch it. Like I said, I hardly ever have the sleeves down and buttoned without a jacket on anyway - but going too short would definitely be worse!
     
  12. thomaspaine

    thomaspaine Senior member

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    170
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    Feb 3, 2012
    Location:
    New York City
    I have a Thomas Mason shirt from Spoon and it was $195 if I recall correctly.

    As an update on the malformed blazer from a few posts ago, they offered to remake it and I'm much more pleased with it now. Also had a few more shirts made that have turned out great. I'll try to post some pictures at some point.

    If anything, Spoon has great customer service and will work hard to make you happy. I'm not sure if I'll get another blazer or suit from them just because I think the house cut is a little too traditional for my taste though.
     
  13. AHS

    AHS Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2009
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Any other testimonials out there? Their website was never updated.

    Other bespoke options in San Francisco?

    AHS
     
  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

    Messages:
    6,564
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    Aug 12, 2011
    Napoli su misura, Steed tailors, and W.W. Chen all travel to San Francisco.
     
  15. jstafford

    jstafford New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2013
    I was hoping I could get some friendly advice from a few members...

    I'm a firefighter by trade so I rarely have the need to wear a suit but when I do I'd like it to look nice. The only suit I own is an off the rack ill fitting garment so I was considering trying a custom made suit or just going to Mens Warehouse and getting one altered. Before making a drive into Spoon I figured maybe I could get a few answers here

    My Build- I'm 6'3, 215lbs with an athletic build, I have wide shoulders however a thin chest. In order to get something that fits my shoulder width it makes my chest seem even smaller that coupled with shoulder pads make me feel like a scarecrow. Large T shirts fit tight but XL is a bit too baggy.

    What would I be looking at cost wise if I went for a custom made suit? I know the cost varies by which material I choose but can someone give me a ballpark estimate, something entry level in a dark gray.

    Also is there a specific pattern that would give the impression of me being a little thicker in the chest?

    Thanks for the help
    (bay area resident)
     
  16. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,613
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2007
    Location:
    San Francisco
    

    Since you live in the SF Bay Area and there are a lot of traveling HK tailors that visit here. Both WW Chan and Gordon Yao will be here this month and their entry level starts at about $1300 USD and no idea without going throughout the pages what Spoon charges. If you want a lower price there's Simpson Sin which is half the cost of Chan and Yao and they also visit San Francisco twice a year I believe.

    I have no idea what would make your chest look fuller.
     
  17. jstafford

    jstafford New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Nov 10, 2013
    Great thanks for the help unfortunately it looks like I just missed Simpson Sin.

    I guess I should've phrased my question a little different, what patterns would help a thin guy look bigger?

    thanks again
     
  18. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

    Messages:
    1,653
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    Mar 7, 2009
    Location:
    San Francisco, California
    

    I would also recommend Andreas Gorges for semi-bespoke. I think there's a big benefit to working with a local tailor as opposed to a traveling one if you're new to bespoke.
     
  19. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,875
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    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    

    I had him do alterations for me about a decade+ ago.
    Some of the work was unsatisfactory and could not
    be fixed. I wouldn't trust him to do semi bespoke,
    unless his skills have improved significantly.
     
  20. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

    Messages:
    8,518
    Joined:
    May 27, 2008
    Location:
    El Barrio
    There are several members who happily use Andreas regularly for alterations and for his MTM service, myself included. I've been happier with Andy's work than with Spoon's.
     

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