Spectator Shoes

[Claytr]

I have a pair of white buck Church's wingtips. I have had them for many years and wear them occasionally.

I absolutely second the Church’s white buck wingtip. I have a pair and alternate those along with the blue/white McAllisters with seersucker suits.

 

[Easily Amused]

Go for it! I used to own three spectators, now down to one, though I prefer a tonal combination, as I find this to be a more versatile year-rounder. My Gaziano & Girling Walkton in Cherry Kudu and Vintage Cherry, great in cool and warm weather...

 

[JFWR]

Are the all-calfskin spectators (or calfskin-suede ones) easier to keep clean?

Use neutral polish with a clean cloth and do not use a horsehair brush that has ever touched any colour. The white will immediately discolour, otherwise.

 

[JLibourel]

Alan Flusser in Dressing the Man states,"...Manufacturers have replaced this pedigreed shoe's authentic white suede with a cheap and shiny synthetic leather, effectively eliminating the class from this summer classic." I have three pairs of A-E spectators. I have the Belmont in brown and shiny white leather and a similar pair in black and white. These are what some call a "lawn blucher." By way of exculpation, few if any of the folks I hobnob with have the sartorial sophistication to regard them with disdain. Second, they only cost about $70 a pair--not bad for A-Es even 20 years ago! My other pair is several notches up--Broadstreets with white suede and chestnut calfskin. These were presented to me by Mr. Grangard (sp.?), the then president of A-E, in response to an SF petition to the effect that A-E should do something to honor me for my consistent advocacy of A-Es. For those of you who were around then (ca. 2007), thanks guys!

 

[JFWR]

Alan Flusser in Dressing the Man states,"...Manufacturers have replaced this pedigreed shoe's authentic white suede with a cheap and shiny synthetic leather, effectively eliminating the class from this summer classic." I have three pairs of A-E spectators. I have the Belmont in brown and shiny white leather and a similar pair in black and white. These are what some call a "lawn blucher." By way of exculpation, few if any of the folks I hobnob with have the sartorial sophistication to regard them with disdain. Second, they only cost about $70 a pair--not bad for A-Es even 20 years ago! My other pair is several notches up--Broadstreets with white suede and chestnut calfskin. These were presented to me by Mr. Grangard (sp.?), the then president of A-E, in response to an SF petition to the effect that A-E should do something to honor me for my consistent advocacy of A-Es. For those of you who were around then (ca. 2007), thanks guys!

The white calf on my spectators seems high quality.

 

[Brummelwannabe]

What Matty S is looking for is not spectators, which are too dressy for sport coats and odd trousers, but saddle shoes. These come in myriad colors, materials and textures, almost always with comfortable rubber soles. Bass has a large selection at low enough prices you can get several pairs that will go with anything and everything.

I love two-tone shoes; I even have a three-tone AE in patriotic red, white and blue! Wearing them shows you take your attire seriously and not afraid to set your own style. And this notion they make you look like a gangster is outmoded. Who today remembers Bugsy Siegel and his crew?

My dress spectators, with the exception of the AE patriot, are all from Shoe Passion. I was fortunate to get their stunning black and white (oxford), their light and airy cognac and perforated white calfskin (derby) before they were discontinued, and their navy and cognac (oxford), which is still available.

My saddle shoes are either derbys or oxfords. Two-tone loafers are available, both dress and casual, but I don't think they work.

Beside the all-white bucks, Matty S might also consider shoes of woven leather strips, in any shade except black. Unless it's a Navy blazer with gray trousers, black shoes with coats and odd trousers are not appropriate, IMHO.

 

[DorianGreen]

Go for it! I used to own three spectators, now down to one, though I prefer a tonal combination, as I find this to be a more versatile year-rounder. My Gaziano & Girling Walkton in Cherry Kudu and Vintage Cherry, great in cool and warm weather... View attachment 1976223 View attachment 1976225 View attachment 1976227

Very nice. In the first two pictures the Vintage Cherry looks pretty brownish, I guess that the colour in the third picture is more faithful.

 

[knittieguy]

Not a fan of saddle shoes. I wore those in college and have kind of moved on. But that's just me.

 

[JFWR]

What Matty S is looking for is not spectators, which are too dressy for sport coats and odd trousers, but saddle shoes. These come in myriad colors, materials and textures, almost always with comfortable rubber soles. Bass has a large selection at low enough prices you can get several pairs that will go with anything and everything.

I love two-tone shoes; I even have a three-tone AE in patriotic red, white and blue! Wearing them shows you take your attire seriously and not afraid to set your own style. And this notion they make you look like a gangster is outmoded. Who today remembers Bugsy Siegel and his crew?

My dress spectators, with the exception of the AE patriot, are all from Shoe Passion. I was fortunate to get their stunning black and white (oxford), their light and airy cognac and perforated white calfskin (derby) before they were discontinued, and their navy and cognac (oxford), which is still available.

My saddle shoes are either derbys or oxfords. Two-tone loafers are available, both dress and casual, but I don't think they work.

Beside the all-white bucks, Matty S might also consider shoes of woven leather strips, in any shade except black. Unless it's a Navy blazer with gray trousers, black shoes with coats and odd trousers are not appropriate, IMHO.

I'm not so sure I agree with you on the spectator shoe being too formal for odd trousers and a jacket.

To me, the spectator shoe always came off as purposefully casual. These were shoes meant to be worn originally as spectators at Polo games, if I am not mistaken, and they are primarily worn in the summer.

Given they were meant to be worn outside, in a country/sporting setting, and were associated with summer, I always took that feature to decidedly casual them down. You can totally wear them with odd slacks.

Incidentally, I think the association with mobsters is entirely fine because one of the great hollywood depictions of the spectator was from Some Like it Hot, where the mobster wears spectators on vacation that they are avoiding (they actually FOCUS on his shoes under the table at one scene). Also, in Singing in the Rain, Gene Kelly wears spectators constantly to represent 20s style. I actually look to both of those movies as inspiring reasons to wear spectators as they are such great films.

 

[Brummelwannabe]

You make a very good case but remember country/sporting settings attire during those times was not casual as it is defined now; it was much dressier and more refined.

Yes, I concede you can wear specs with coats and odd trousers but be careful the outfit is at the upper end of casual and patterns/colors are subdued to balance the flashiness of the shoes.

By the way, "Spats" Colombo in Some Like It Hot didn't wear spectators with his suits, he wore, of course, spats. Can you even buy spats today? I think they're cool!

 

[JFWR]

You make a very good case but remember country/sporting settings attire during those times was not casual as it is defined now; it was much dressier and more refined.

Yes, I concede you can wear specs with coats and odd trousers but be careful the outfit is at the upper end of casual and patterns/colors are subdued to balance the flashiness of the shoes.

By the way, "Spats" Columbo in Some Like It Hot didn't wear spectators with his suits, he wore, of course, spats. Can you even buy spats today? I think they're cool!

You can. There are a few places which actually sell them, mostly for costume work and the like, but if you wanted to, you could get a pair.

But he did in fact wear spectators. I once successfully found the picture of it online, but here's his henchmen all wearing spectators:

https://www.imfdb.org/images/8/8e/****-fnhp1.jpg - Replace the **** with s l i t because apparently that's a naughty word.

But yes, when he is wearing a tuxedo and the like, he's wearing spats; when he comes down to Florida, he's wearing spectators.

But you are right about keeping in mind that sporting competitions were much more formal then than now. But even the fact that they were brogues was indicative of their country shoe usage, so I think you can get away without wearing a suit. You -can- wear a suit, which would probably look really nice, but I think odd trousers are fine and there are interesting colour combinations you can play with when it comes to spectators.

 

[MattyS]

@Andy57, am I correct that you have a pair of custom Edward Green spectators? Are the lighter colored parts calfskin, suede, or canvas?

 

[brax]

I own a couple pairs. The Bonafe is canvas and leather which I wear during summer with casual suits, e.g., seersucker, linen.

The second pair are Alden cordovan which I wear only in winter.

 

[Brummelwannabe]

JFWR, I stand corrected. Thanks!

I've been invited to a cocktail party on Cunard's Queen Elizabeth hosted by the captain. I am planning on wearing a serge navy blazer by Richard Anderson Ltd., off-white flannel trousers, blue dress shirt, blue/yellow/green tie striped tie, and my black & white spectators. Thoughts?

 

[William Kazak]

I'm not so sure I agree with you on the spectator shoe being too formal for odd trousers and a jacket.

To me, the spectator shoe always came off as purposefully casual. These were shoes meant to be worn originally as spectators at Polo games, if I am not mistaken, and they are primarily worn in the summer.

Given they were meant to be worn outside, in a country/sporting setting, and were associated with summer, I always took that feature to decidedly casual them down. You can totally wear them with odd slacks.

Incidentally, I think the association with mobsters is entirely fine because one of the great hollywood depictions of the spectator was from Some Like it Hot, where the mobster wears spectators on vacation that they are avoiding (they actually FOCUS on his shoes under the table at one scene). Also, in Singing in the Rain, Gene Kelly wears spectators constantly to represent 20s style. I actually look to both of those movies as inspiring reasons to wear spectators as they are such great films.

I have heard it said that spectator shoes were darker on the bottom in order to keep their white shoes clean. Seeing how they kept the white on top. As they walked in the turf.