• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Solito Thread

tazmaniac

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2007
Messages
540
Reaction score
17

I think I have six or seven suits/ sport coats from them, and then a couple pairs of pants. Most of it is fall/ winter stuff like corduroys and tweeds, but they also made me a blue Fresco SC that I really like.

I'm sending them some cloth for a new SC, but I can't decide between a brown Donegal I bought from Molloy & Sons or that LL Agnelli glen plaid tweed. The check on that tweed is monstrously big and I'm kind of worried it'll look ridiculous on my 36R frame.

That 18oz flannel sounds nice and cozy.


If you are still on the fence, this is my fitting of the Agnelli tweed (I am also a size 36):

700

700

700
 

tazmaniac

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2007
Messages
540
Reaction score
17
I just realized this probably doesn't belong in the Solito thread. Will post again in unfunded liabilities.
 

greger

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
1,470
Reaction score
193

Quote:
The word "classic" in tailoring terms, to me, represents navy, mid grey, or charcoal, with simple details. Straight pockets, simple buttons, reasonable proportions. A 5 inch lapel in a fabric that brings used carpet salesman to mind has little chance of being "classic". In fact, classic might best be described as the opposite of garish, whatever that means to you.
You are describing plane jane, and from that perspective that would be garish, too. If you think in mathematical logic some of the stuff pushed here as classic doesn't add up. If you are saying 5" lapels = minus but, waterfall sleeves = plus if you don't see the error here in the math there is nothing more for me to say other than to go back to school. Something else I'd like to say. Some tailors are very good artist when making lapels, not to mention other parts of the coat and blending the parts together, if a number of lapel sizes that you have seen look garish you need to get out around more or look through a lot of old pictures. Again the logic doesn't add up. It is not the width but the skill of the maker. There are plenty of lapels the width you like that are garish because the skill is not there to make it look good. So it is not width but skills that matter. All groups decide what is in their box, logical or not. Groups can do whatever they want.
 

bdavro23

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
3,699
Reaction score
4,475
If you are saying 5" lapels = minus but, waterfall sleeves = plus if you don't see the error here in the math there is nothing more for me to say other than to go back to school.

Please take a moment to refer back to what I actually said rather than making up something on your own to attribute to me. As for going back to school, perhaps you should head there yourself to work on those reading comprehension skills.
 

greger

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
1,470
Reaction score
193

Please take a moment to refer back to what I actually said rather than making up something on your own to attribute to me. As for going back to school, perhaps you should head there yourself to work on those reading comprehension skills.


Many people here have some knowledge of clothes and tailor, but none of us have it all. To add to that we have personal likes. If you were listening to a number of tailors talking about the many ways to make the chest, which ones are classic? I am reading drape and swell here and I wonder if you guys know the difference. And neither one falls into classic. Nothing wrong with either one. When you said 5" lapels are garish because they are not classic that would make drape and swell garish because they are not classic, either. These three, and actually many other things involving tailored Clothes, falls into the boat of garish. I personally think garish is way more extreme.

"A 5 inch lapel in a fabric that brings used carpet salesman to mind has little chance of being "classic"

"In fact, classic might best be described as the opposite of garish..."

Do you have drape coats?
 

bdavro23

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
3,699
Reaction score
4,475
Quote:
I am going to give you the benefit of the doubt here and try one more time to explain this to you. Read what I actually said. I make no mention of how to construct the chest, said nothing about drape or swell, and didnt even say that 5" lapels are garish in and of themselves. I dont actually know what point you are trying to make, but here is mine: If someone asked what suit they should get as a first step into building their business wardrobe, the majority of people on this board would recommend a navy or grey solid suit with reasonable proportions. Why? Because they are the foundation of most business wardrobes. And, if you go to a tailor and ask them for a grey or navy suit of modest proportions and dont try to micromanage them, what are you likely to get? A classic suit. Stop trying to make this more than it is.
 

greger

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
1,470
Reaction score
193
OK. You are talking about the most basic of basics of the beginners business suit. I wouldn't even come close to calling that classical. When I think of the classics I think of Grand Greek architecture. I've never heard of classic movies being so plain they are bottom rung, but having some magnificents that elevates it to a far higher status. Just looked in the dictionary and saw your description in there. Thanks bdavro23 for your time.

PB, tailoring is an art. If you have taken an art history class you find out that some artist put into their paintings a tremendous amount of thought. Not exactly shallow paintings. So to with some tailors. When looking at their coats there is a lot to look at and think about. There are so many coats out there that are dead boring, even by tailors, and I'm thinking, "Where is the coffin so we can throw them in and bury them" . 50 years ago there were thousands of tailors across the US. Today, most places zero. About 1967 mass-produced got much better looking, though they didn't fit better. The Hippies were against materialism. Bomb threats in schools. The late 60s and early 70s were interesting times. Anyway, the more you know about making suits the more there is to think about. Some of Mantons coats have more details and favorable than others who go to the same tailors. Chalk it up to his knowledge. Talk to every tailor, scour every book, and learn art.
 

bdavro23

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
3,699
Reaction score
4,475
OK. You are talking about the most basic of basics of the beginners business suit. I wouldn't even come close to calling that classical. When I think of the classics I think of Grand Greek architecture. I've never heard of classic movies being so plain they are bottom rung, but having some magnificents that elevates it to a far higher status. Just looked in the dictionary and saw your description in there. Thanks bdavro23 for your time.

PB, tailoring is an art. If you have taken an art history class you find out that some artist put into their paintings a tremendous amount of thought. Not exactly shallow paintings. So to with some tailors. When looking at their coats there is a lot to look at and think about. There are so many coats out there that are dead boring, even by tailors, and I'm thinking, "Where is the coffin so we can throw them in and bury them" . 50 years ago there were thousands of tailors across the US. Today, most places zero. About 1967 mass-produced got much better looking, though they didn't fit better. The Hippies were against materialism. Bomb threats in schools. The late 60s and early 70s were interesting times. Anyway, the more you know about making suits the more there is to think about. Some of Mantons coats have more details and favorable than others who go to the same tailors. Chalk it up to his knowledge. Talk to every tailor, scour every book, and learn art.

Your ability to combine words in groups without actually saying anything or moving forward with a point is truly dizzying. I was in an art gallery in London about 10 years ago where an artist stood on a pedestal and pissed himself. Now, while I dont really understand the point of what he was doing, I am sure this artist put a lot of thought into his performance piece.

So, following your logic, the next time I am getting fitted for a simple, yet superbly executed Navy suit, I'll ask my tailor to piss himself so you can consider it art and we can agree its a classic piece. Deal?
 

greger

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
1,470
Reaction score
193

Your ability to combine words in groups without actually saying anything or moving forward with a point is truly dizzying. I was in an art gallery in London about 10 years ago where an artist stood on a pedestal and pissed himself. Now, while I dont really understand the point of what he was doing, I am sure this artist put a lot of thought into his performance piece.

So, following your logic, the next time I am getting fitted for a simple, yet superbly executed Navy suit, I'll ask my tailor to piss himself so you can consider it art and we can agree its a classic piece. Deal?


If you want to call that art help yourself.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 97 37.0%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 94 35.9%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 31 11.8%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 44 16.8%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 40 15.3%

Forum statistics

Threads
507,451
Messages
10,596,084
Members
224,430
Latest member
Matteo6545
Top