Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

[onlyslp]

Are you just plugging yourself? I know nothing about you, so I'm not sure what point you're trying to get across with that picture regarding the info I gave, SirGrotius.

I'm 5'6 and a 29' inseam is the no-break length for me

so he was probably just confused about how you hem yours to 27' when you're 5'7 unless you're going for a cropped look lol

and I believe he folded his denim inwards saying you don't actually need to hem it for the look

 

[chv7]

I'm 5'6 and a 29' inseam is the no-break length for me

so he was probably just confused about how you hem yours to 27' when you're 5'7 unless you're going for a cropped look lol

and I believe he folded his denim inwards saying you don't actually need to hem it for the look

How are you measuring the inseam? crotch to hem? At 27' it hits right at my foot without shoes on, and with boots on I get 1-2 stacks.

EDIT: Just measured myself and I'm about 5'6

, but 27' inseam is perfect for me. I'll throw up a picture sometime.

 

[linstar]

You guys know people have different body proportions right? Just because you're around the same height doesn't mean your legs are the same length.

 

[therattler]

@neonrider is right guys. the best part of hedi's stuff is that he incessantly references a culture, or notion of style, that stands absolutely for a sense of personal freedom untethered by the expectations of an antiquated perception of good taste or elitist aristocracy. as a committed communist, there are some valid criticisms to make about this, but that can be for another time.

it's real clear that this was not just about business, but was a political decision. even as a I stand corrected about menswear selling more, kering was making a billion dollars off of a brand that was (arguably, and I don't agree with the idea that he was not good at womenswear) killing it for men. what good is it to try to erase that and go back to red carpet looks, and safe womens rtw?

all of the arguments about quality, or inferiority are moot. it is true that today's fashion tends toward the throwaway statement piece. if you're buying a 5k silk bomber, you shouldn't expect it to last forever? its silk. same with the lambskin leathers. but everyone knows that if anything, luxury is about being able to afford that and more. many of us (myself included) wish that we could buy doubles of everything, but its an irrelevant criticism to make: that the quality of obviously delicate items is somehow lacking. "oh I wish this lambskin leather jacket didn't scratch so easily" or "the silk lining came undone at the seams on this extremely slim cut blazer."

sadly, many people of making the criticisms we see on here and in the press still don't get it. and it goes back to our discussions on here before, that if you were never apart of the world that hedi references, it's difficult to see how it is that the l17 is far superior design wise to all of the other bikers that flood the market (directly as a result of hedi's influence), for example. and it's this reason that there's people like us who are pathological obsessed with the stuff. in a way, it's not even about fashion, but a presentation of a very specific culture.*




*that by the way is almost always alienating, so it's never any wonder that people never like hedi's work.

 

[cloonz]



i can't be the only one that thinks he just keeps producing the same **** over and over every season at Chanel right?

i think he changes it up a whole lot more than hedi and we eat his **** up

 

[Isolar]

A lot of this discussion sounds like what was being said back in 2012, while ignoring the last four years of remarkable growth.

While I haven't seen any breakdown of the numbers, I would have a difficult time believing that the company could produce that kind of economic growth solely from menswear. I also disagree with the idea that the womenswear was too alienating to wear, or too unforgiving. It certainly isn't more so than the menswear, which is traditionally much more conservative than womenswear. Hell, many of the pieces were produced for both men and women.

As for any perceived quality issues, how is that Hedi's fault and not corporate's? Does anyone expect quality issues to disappear once Vaccarello starts. I actually think Hedi was probably the one person fighting for better quality at SLP.

Everyone's entitled to his opinion of course, but some things are beyond contention.

 

[Prudy]

With respect, this has to come from both sides of the argument.

IMO a lot of good discussion about SLP is wasted because stuff always devolves in some kind of blind defence/offence against/for Hedi. I get that fashion is subjective, but you (not you specially, rider) can look at least somewhat objectively at the clothes and other peoples' arguments and come up with something better than the usual "Hedi is a revolutionary design genius none of u get it!!!" vs. "Hedi is a hack making ugly clothes for wannabe rock stars"

Also, I think Vaccarello did work at Fendi with their furs, so maybe those customers will make a switch

With respect, this has to come from both sides of the argument.

IMO a lot of good discussion about SLP is wasted because stuff always devolves in some kind of blind defence/offence against/for Hedi. I get that fashion is subjective, but you (not you specially, rider) can look at least somewhat objectively at the clothes and other peoples' arguments and come up with something better than the usual "Hedi is a revolutionary design genius none of u get it!!!" vs. "Hedi is a hack making ugly clothes for wannabe rock stars"

Also, I think Vaccarello did work at Fendi with their furs, so maybe those customers will make a switch

meh...

If you want to see real blind deference go check out WAYWT for 1 million asshats obsessed with 'quality' and 'authenticity'. Cynical and bland.

If you're spending your time in a department store debating the finer points of fur quality with a SA who, in a lot of cases, probably doesn't know their ass from their elbow, then don't pretend like you have something to say on this thread or even give a ****, really. Instagram awaits you - be sure to post your most magazine-like photo wearing your FW '13 Teddy and don't forget to #baller

 

[LA4Lyfe]

https://*****************/listings/460543-Saint-Laurent-Paris-2014-FW-Studded-Leather-Jacket


Real??

 

[LA4Lyfe]

Real??

 

[Death24xASecond]

Why does it matter that SL sales exploded under Slimane's tenure? Obviously, there is the purely economic argument. But at this level, people also care about tradition and other intangible matters. I can certainly see how the powers-that-be may have rejected the higher sales in favor of trying to wrest back control over the SL image, history, and tradition.

 

[Prudy]



Why does it matter that SL sales exploded under Slimane's tenure? Obviously, there is the purely economic argument. But at this level, people also care about tradition and other intangible matters. I can certainly see how the powers-that-be may have rejected the higher sales in favor of trying to wrest back control over the SL image, history, and tradition.

Lol, so you think Hedi wasn't about that tradition? Do you know anything about Yves? Which YSL tradition are you referring to??

 

[harlemriver]

As for any perceived quality issues, how is that Hedi's fault and not corporate's? Does anyone expect quality issues to disappear once Vaccarello starts. I actually think Hedi was probably the one person fighting for better quality at SLP.

Everyone's entitled to his opinion of course, but some things are beyond contention.

No one is directly blaming Hedi for the quality. I mention the quality as a function of SLP as a company - not any one individual, but groups and teams of individuals who collectively are missing the mark on something that I consider paramount. Again, this is not an attack on any individual, it is just my experience.

When my Prada wallet split half in two a while back, I did not go around saying, "I curse you Miuccia!" Rather I chalked it up to a general organizational decline and that Prada should be more diligent about QA/QC. Nothing personal - just the facts. Miuccia has done great things for me - I have Prada bags from the early 2000's that I still use and love, are in great condition and get compliments each time I use them. When the buttons always fell off of my BoO button downs, I did not commence a diatribe against Scott. I just wished the company would work on sewing the buttons properly. The quality was primo even the buttons it was just that they systematically are careless with sewing.

That being said, Slimane was given maverick-level status at SLP. I am certain that if he had known about production issues he could have asserted some influence. If you can lead the charge on something so sacred - YSL to SLP - then I am certain you could have a conversation with operations and QA about finding ways to increase the quality. For all I know, he may very well have done just that.

As an end customer, I did have some product that was fundamentally flawed. That's it and that's all.

 

[Isolar]

That being said, Slimane was given maverick-level status at SLP. I am certain that if he had known about production issues he could have asserted some influence. If you can lead the charge on something so sacred - YSL to SLP - then I am certain you could have a conversation with operations and QA about finding ways to increase the quality. For all I know, he may very well have done just that.

Granted, I'm not claiming that the current standard of SLP goods is entirely without reproach, however I do think that this is as a result of Hedi's influence. Ultimately quality comes at the expense of profits, and most companies will try to see how much room they have within their current parameters to reduce quality while retaining price, and thereby maximising profits. Every company does this to some degree.

Why does it matter that SL sales exploded under Slimane's tenure? Obviously, there is the purely economic argument. But at this level, people also care about tradition and other intangible matters. I can certainly see how the powers-that-be may have rejected the higher sales in favor of trying to wrest back control over the SL image, history, and tradition.

If you think any conglomerate as large as Kering is sacrificing massive sales for some intangible perception of "tradition," then take a moment to consider all the once-prosperous fashion houses that have collapsed in the last century by not adapting to current tastes. A list that I'm sure Kering is familiar with. Plus, they have shareholders to answer to.

I agree with Prudy, Hedi seems very invested in YSL's tradition, he just filters it through his own point of view, as any talented designer would.

Without knowing the real reason for his exit, I find it hard to believe that Kering would be forcing him out after what he's done for the label over the last few years.

 

[cyc wid it]

The point is I have jeans with varying cuts and hem lengths. Sometimes super skinny/stacked, sometimes neat hem, etc. It's odd for me to see such a rigid formula prescribed for jeans.

Not sure what self promotion there is... unless we can trade thumbs for real money??

Since we're still talking this issue: the CORE customer needs to be catered to. This would be women and not necessarily younger sub-culture type of women. It probably also didn't help that he became a headache, moved himself and a bunch of other people to LA etc.

Man those jeans look great (boots too). I also just bought a pair of the knee rips, but unfortunately my normal size (30) is a touch too tight in the thighs? Did you find these jeans stretched out a bit after wearing? If not, will have to sell these and size up one to a 31.

Some stretch overall (waist etc.) with a little bit in the thighs. If you size up 1, you'll probably get less stretch (since there will be less pressure?).

 

[grizzy]

Thanks for the response CYC. I just bought another pair in a 31 and they fit much better... The 30 is a touch tight in the thighs.

With that said, I'm looking to get rid of the size 30 so if anyone is interested shoot me a PM. They are brand new but I did take off the tags


Hoping to get what I paid for them back, so $US600.

Please PM if interested.

THANKS!