1. Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Atelier Wen We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Atelier Wen focusing on quality mechanical watches proudly made in China.

S.E.H Kelly

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by JohnnyLaw, Dec 1, 2011.

Tags:
  1. Sneaky Pete

    Sneaky Pete Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    31
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2017
    I love your writing as much as I love your clothes (or think I do - haven't managed to buy any yet, although I hope to change that soon). It's not just the subject matter, which indicates a deep thoughtfulness about design, fit, fabric, etc but the style too. Really good writing is rare, especially when it comes to clothes.
     


  2. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    451
    Likes Received:
    504
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Location:
    London
    Cheers. Very kind.

    I’ve always enjoyed the discourse across Styleforum, but I do agree that there isn’t as much written with thought about clothing as perhaps there should, especially given all the thought that clearly goes into it.

    I’ve had some spare time to update http://sehkelly.com/words/ over the past week, and intend to plough on with it next week, too.
     


  3. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    451
    Likes Received:
    504
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Location:
    London
    We've been having some fun this month making shirts with cloth that isn't quite what you'd expect ... quite.

    The first of these is a type of cloth we've been pursuing for quite a while — namely a very lightweight material, good in "properly hot weather" and but which is also quite interesting. What we've found is a very unassuming cloth known as parachute cotton.

    shirt-granddad-parachute-cotton-alabaster-6.jpg
    shirt-granddad-parachute-cotton-alabaster-5.jpg
    shirt-granddad-parachute-cotton-alabaster-3.jpg
    shirt-granddad-parachute-cotton-alabaster-2.jpg

    It is, in the words of the man that makes it, "used for parachutes and ejector seats in fighter planes. The reason it shines is that it is made from the finest Egyptian cotton, which is mercerised, like sewing thread, which also makes it very strong."

    It is by far the finest and lightest material we have ever used — even more so than the light Irish linens that we made shirts with a few years ago. And though it looks very plain, it does have a very subtle lustre to it, because of the mercerisation mentioned above.

    We introduced it in large part to satisfy a demand of our customers in Japan, where it gets very, very hot and humid in summer. And, now that we're having a similar sort of summer here in London, I'm very glad we did.
     


  4. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    451
    Likes Received:
    504
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Location:
    London
    Here's another of those fairly unassuming materials we've used to make shirts this summer.

    It's a linen, and a plain one at that -- but it is very fine yarn, a weighty weave, and is mercerised and sanforised. The former creates a very clean, lustred surface, and the latter stabilising the cloth and means, unlike most linen, it doesn't shrink or otherwise misbehave.

    shirt-kelly-collar-tailor-linen-grey-1@2x.jpg
    shirt-kelly-collar-linen-dark-navy-2.jpg shirt-kelly-collar-tailor-linen-grey-5.jpg shirt-kelly-collar-linen-dark-navy-6.jpg

    It's tailoring linen, in effect: typically used for making suits. It also makes a linen shirt with no little amount of heft and authority, and one low on the "crease-propensity" scale. Not as light and breathable as lighter linens ... but good in spring and autumn. It is a match for some of the heavier jackets we've lined up for post-summer, such as the corduroy work jackets we're currently making -- and the idea of things being suitable beyond a narrow seasonal timescale is something that we've been working slowly towards for some time.

    Paul
     


  5. JackL2

    JackL2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    66
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2013
    Any news or new pictures of the tielocken? Thanks, Paul!
     


  6. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    451
    Likes Received:
    504
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Location:
    London
    It is very much at hand, and is due to be cut within the next couple of weeks — ergo, probably complete this time next month.

    Shall I drop you a line when they're done?

    And I'll post some photographs of the cloth, cut or otherwise, in the next day or two. It is a very subtle Donegal tweed: a birdseye. From a distance it looks very similar to the only previously shared images of the tielocken, but up close, the pattern is slightly more bold.
     


  7. JackL2

    JackL2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    66
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2013
    Yes, please! I appreciate that, I'd very much like to stay posted. The old fabric looked great, and I"m sure this birdseye is more of the same.
     


  8. DuckOB

    DuckOB Senior Member

    Messages:
    766
    Likes Received:
    240
    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Hi Paul. You mention cord work jackets. Any swatch colors you share? I have been looking for a corduroy jacket and can’t find one I like

    Thx
     


  9. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    451
    Likes Received:
    504
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Location:
    London
    We're making them in a tan colour (at the redder end of the tan spectrum) and black. The corduroy is quite thick, and quite wide of wale. A good, hard-wearing chunky corduroy.

    And the style will be the same as https://www.sehkelly.com/work-jacket-in-cotton-sail-cloth-in-slate-blue/ — i.e. with the collar and the recessed armhole.

    The other new thing is that they'll likely have butcher's buttons: our first garments to do so.

    They'll be done by the end of the month, all being well.

    Paul
     


  10. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    451
    Likes Received:
    504
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Location:
    London
    Here it is.

    Quite resistant to being photographed in the poor light of the factory, hence a few variations of the same thing.

    tielocken-cloth-2.jpg tielocken-cloth-3.jpg tielocken-cloth-1.jpg

    Paul
     


  11. JackL2

    JackL2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    66
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2013
    That's perfect. Are there any pics of tielocken samples from the front, just to see the full design? Regardless, I think I'm definitely in for this when it's complete next month.
     


  12. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    451
    Likes Received:
    504
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Location:
    London
    Sorry for the delay — I'll see what I can do ...

    I did photograph a toile of the tielocken quite extensively, for posterity, a few months ago, and I'm sure there's a front-on image there somewhere.
     


  13. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    451
    Likes Received:
    504
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Location:
    London
    Some photographs of our new peacoat, here, which this time we've made in a merino hopsack from West Yorkshire.

    peacoat-hopsack-overcoating-dark-navy-2.jpg
    peacoat-hopsack-overcoating-dark-grey-3.jpg
    peacoat-hopsack-overcoating-dark-grey-5.jpg
    peacoat-hopsack-overcoating-dark-navy-7.jpg
    peacoat-hopsack-overcoating-dark-grey-11.jpg
    peacoat-hopsack-overcoating-dark-navy-15.jpg
    peacoat-hopsack-overcoating-dark-grey-12.jpg
    peacoat-hopsack-overcoating-dark-navy-5.jpg

    It's a splendid cloth, it really is — heavy, dense, but not too bulky.

    Thus the peacoat arguably looks more elegant than last year's nigh-bulletproof model.

    Full of character, too, the cloth — all bobbly basketweave, multiple shades of the same colour, and a certain fuzziness. Atypical of merino, that last quality, and a result of a very light and personality-preserving finish.
     


  14. Alexidb

    Alexidb Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2011
    Location:
    Boston
    Whats the word on shipping to the US and VAT?
     


  15. sehkelly

    sehkelly Senior Member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    451
    Likes Received:
    504
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2012
    Location:
    London


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.