S.E.H Kelly

[sehkelly]

I think you mentioned the topcoat would be a bit slimmer in a `instead of a jacket` manner despite being an "overcoat". Are you taking in the waist at all? Figured for an overcoat, you'd be using more of a straight silhouette. I imagine it could be altered after the fact, whether that's a good idea or not is another matter.

Are you planning on using any structure in the shoulder? Think you mentioned that the SB isn't structured.

Also, have you ever used or considered down? Or making a padded piece? Not sure if that's your thing, more curious if you've found anything interesting historically with regards to padded garments in the UK.

Realizing that the background of the topcoat is likely a shipping container. Surprised at how much I like it. Just enough to be interesting without distracting from the coat.

That's right, yes — it is cut with quite a lot of shape in the body (for us) and is probably optimally worn with a shirt and sweater, or just a shirt, rather than like a fully-fledged overcoat over a jacket (which wouldn't work).

And it has shoulder pads, thin ones, so there's a bit of structure there, too.

I am very happy with the shape. It has good "hanger appeal" (as hopefully evidenced above) but sits very well on the body, too, and immediately upgrades my slovenly appearance.

We've made padded items before, using the otherwise-discarded wool of British sheep. The paddock jacket, which is a new design we have been working on, will have lightweight padding, although we haven't yet decided (or really thought about) what type of padding.

The background is just the side of a factory! Not very glamorous but needs must.

 

[10dence]

Here's the latest version of the topcoat we have been working on.


It's coming together!

Likely, we'll make it in tweed in the autumn, rather the melton here. Not the same tweed as the balmacaan -- not as heavy and not so pronounced a pattern -- but from the same part of the world, and the same fine, soft lambswoolliness.

So I don't forget later on, please put my name down on the waiting list.

Sad that due to poor timing I have to opt out of the balmacaan this time. Hope you'll consider cotton again in a not too distant future.

 

[sehkelly]

So I don't forget later on, please put my name down on the waiting list.

Sad that due to poor timing I have to opt out of the balmacaan this time. Hope you'll consider cotton again in a not too distant future.

Will do re the topcoat.

And the balmacaan in cotton — I don't know whether we'll make it again in cotton any time soon, but we do have the duster coming back later this year, most likely in a similar sort of cloth. We've developed it further, the past six months, and I am hoping it'll eventually establish the mantle of "long rainproof cotton coat".

 

[WizardVigilante]

Will do re the topcoat.

And the balmacaan in cotton — I don't know whether we'll make it again in cotton any time soon, but we do have the duster coming back later this year, most likely in a similar sort of cloth. We've developed it further, the past six months, and I am hoping it'll eventually establish the mantle of "long rainproof cotton coat".

I have gotten a lot of wear out of the duster. I find myself reaching for it even when the weather doesn’t quite justify it. Every other raincoat feels so mundane by comparison with the added bonus it’s very effective at its job.

 

[sehkelly]

I have gotten a lot of wear out of the duster. I find myself reaching for it even when the weather doesn’t quite justify it. Every other raincoat feels so mundane by comparison with the added bonus it’s very effective at its job.

That's really great to hear.

The main change we've made to the body is wider width in the sleeve.

It'll very likely also have a detachable hood next time around, too.

 

[Csus2]

I just noticed the parka minor seems to have been retired?

 

[riigz]

hey guys, selling my October 2019 balmacaan in navy donegal tweed

making room for the next big SEHK purchase

 

[sehkelly]

I just noticed the parka minor seems to have been retired?

It has. For the foreseeable anyway.

The parka major lives on as the parka, and we have a couple of other shorter styles with hood coming along this year and next.

 

[RozenKristal]

Will do re the topcoat.

And the balmacaan in cotton — I don't know whether we'll make it again in cotton any time soon, but we do have the duster coming back later this year, most likely in a similar sort of cloth. We've developed it further, the past six months, and I am hoping it'll eventually establish the mantle of "long rainproof cotton coat".

Can you add me to the topcoat notify list too?

 

[sehkelly]

Can you add me to the topcoat notify list too?

Will do. Thanks very much for your interest.

 

[OhBanana]

Hey Paul, couple of q's wrt to the hunting jacket.

Looking at the poacher's pouch, it looks like you might have lined the cover (flap?) with viscose. Any particular reason to line that bit vs leaving it as the plain cotton?

Did you line the inside of the poacher's pouch? Both sides?

It looks like the inside pocket is a welt of the same cotton fabric? I'm assuming there's the viscose satin on the inside as well? Trying to imagine how you'd even repair a pocket like that. Take apart the jacket lining?

I think you mentioned that the bellows type pockets were rather difficult to line, was that the case as well for hunting jacket's external pockets?

Having the flap be another pocket is an interesting touch. Wondering if it wouldn't be a fit for some of the other pieces as well.

I noticed some hunting jackets had a leather patch or something on the right side, presumably because most people are shooting from their right shoulder. Would it have made the front too busy?

Ever used leather besides the gloves?

Looking at historic hunting jackets, there are a lot of ideas about what is and isn't part of a traditional hunting jacket. Elbow pads and working sleeve buttons were a bit confusing but I can sort of see it as some wanting to extend the normal jackets of the time. Think I even saw one with a combination of action back, half belt, and darts (front and back). I guess when you want it really shaped but still want the upper body movement.

Different q's

Any thoughts on exploring the burgundy and purple shades?

Ever played with asymmetric fronts? Saw some neat orchestra coats for women. Something about the flared bottom paired with offset buttons kinda pulls at me visually.

u/TeraSera over at r/rawdenim had an interesting take on a chore coat with asymmetric front [link]. I'd rather have much larger pockets on something I'd call a chore coat and it kinda reminds me of marching band/drum major uniforms.

 

[sehkelly]

Let's see ...

Looking at the poacher's pouch, it looks like you might have lined the cover (flap?) with viscose. Any particular reason to line that bit vs leaving it as the plain cotton?

We prefer to cut the underside of flaps in a lining cloth so to reduce bulk. The less bulk you have — in this instance bulk as in layers of cloth — the cleaner the look of the garment and the better it wears over time. Two layers of heavy cotton would be thicker, so would jut out more, be more prone to curling up over time, and would create more of an impression where the flap is inserted into seam.

Did you line the inside of the poacher's pouch? Both sides?

The poacher's pocket is one side outer cloth and one side lightweight cotton. We use a very strong parachute cotton most of the time, for pocketing, but it is off-white so not terribly attractive when viewed from certain angles. Hence we tend only to use it when all-but invisible on the garment. The entrance on the off-white side of the pocket is faced by about an inch of outer cloth, too, so it looks nicer.

It looks like the inside pocket is a welt of the same cotton fabric? I'm assuming there's the viscose satin on the inside as well? Trying to imagine how you'd even repair a pocket like that. Take apart the jacket lining?

The bag of the inbreast pocket is one side outer cloth, one side lining. If you need to repair it you'd need to open the jacket up, yes, probably by unpicking the hem and lifting up the lining / facing in the afflicted region.

I think you mentioned that the bellows type pockets were rather difficult to line, was that the case as well for hunting jacket's external pockets?

The external pockets are all fully lined. Sometimes it makes more sense than others.

Having the flap be another pocket is an interesting touch. Wondering if it wouldn't be a fit for some of the other pieces as well.

Sure it would, yes. We try to avoid recycling ideas but I'm sure it will pop up elsewhere one day if it solves the right problem.

I noticed some hunting jackets had a leather patch or something on the right side, presumably because most people are shooting from their right shoulder. Would it have made the front too busy?

Ever used leather besides the gloves?

We tend not to use leather, and personally it wouldn't look very good on or fit in well with our design. We have a storm flap on our trench, and possibly one new jacket coming up next year, but ... not leather, and not on the hunting jacket. The internal bands of our fur felt hats are leather, and likewise the external and internal bands on our panamas. We made some spectacle frames cases, too, once, which were leather. We also did some trench coats for International Gallery Beams in Tokyo which had detachable leather collars.

Any thoughts on exploring the burgundy and purple shades?

One of the colours of the upcoming fishing jacket is a reddish brown, I guess maroon or burgundy depending on definition. We do use those colours from time to time if a nice one comes our way.

Ever played with asymmetric fronts? Saw some neat orchestra coats for women. Something about the flared bottom paired with offset buttons kinda pulls at me visually.

Not quite sure what you mean with asymmetric fronts, but if the jacket has a wide wrap then the fastening (in our case buttons) will be off-centre to a lesser or greater extent. Our peacoat has a very wide wrap (it is double-breasted) and e.g. our hunting jacket has a slightly extended wrap (hence the buttons are slightly off-centre). If you mean asymmetric in terms of e.g. pockets on one side but not the other, or some sort of tab or strap, then we tend to do that, more often than not. It depends on the design.

I hope I haven't missed anything!

 

[MaE]

Hi Paul,

If I was an “S” in the SEHxSF Balmacaan, should I consider an “M” in the new ones in cotton?!

The olive one is very very tempting!

Best,

MaE

 

[sehkelly]

Hi Paul,

If I was an “S” in the SEHxSF Balmacaan, should I consider an “M” in the new ones in cotton?!

The olive one is very very tempting!

Best,

MaE

Yessir!

 

[mke94]

One of the colours of the upcoming fishing jacket is a reddish brown, I guess maroon or burgundy depending on definition. We do use those colours from time to time if a nice one comes our way.

Good sir, would you be able to share any pictures of the fishing jacket? It does sound mightly interesting