Rory Duffy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2013
- Messages
- 53
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- 15
Did any of you attend the event last night (26 march) at FIT where Bruce Boyer interviewed Mariano and Luca Rubinacci on the Neapolitan style?
For me it was a great insight into their style and what they feel sets them apart from British tailoring. Luca spoke very elegantly about the fit, style and the essence of Neapolitan look. I must confess my exposure to their tailoring is limited, although it is quite different from Savile row I respect their style and would love the opportunity to visit Naples and see their craftsmanship first hand.
What surprised me most was Lucas honesty when he said it doesn't always reach the clients expectations and when this happens, keen to pleases, they simply start again assigning a new tailor and cutter. In the trade we refer to this suit as a 'pork', sure if it never happened there wouldn't be a word for it.
Listening to them speak about their set up, a cutter, coat maker, trouser maker etc and how each client is assigned their own personal tailors in order to maintain consistence in the clients clothing reminded me so much of Henry Poole and how they manage their clients and distribute the work to their tailors. Each time a client returns to have a new suit made the same tailors make it.
The parallels between Naples and Savile row in my mind seemed so similar its tough to say for sure what sets them apart. Luca spoke about how he wanted his clients to feel as though they weren't wearing a suit, when a client returned from work the last thing he wanted them to do was feel the need to remove their jacket for comfort, one should feel as though they could do anything in their suit without feeling restricted. Every tailor including myself would cringe at the thought that their client looked forward to removing their coat at the days end.
Unfortunately I arrived late to the event and missed the first fifteen or so minutes, some viewers where recording the interview, I wonder if anyone has a video or thoughts they would like to share.
For me it was a great insight into their style and what they feel sets them apart from British tailoring. Luca spoke very elegantly about the fit, style and the essence of Neapolitan look. I must confess my exposure to their tailoring is limited, although it is quite different from Savile row I respect their style and would love the opportunity to visit Naples and see their craftsmanship first hand.
What surprised me most was Lucas honesty when he said it doesn't always reach the clients expectations and when this happens, keen to pleases, they simply start again assigning a new tailor and cutter. In the trade we refer to this suit as a 'pork', sure if it never happened there wouldn't be a word for it.
Listening to them speak about their set up, a cutter, coat maker, trouser maker etc and how each client is assigned their own personal tailors in order to maintain consistence in the clients clothing reminded me so much of Henry Poole and how they manage their clients and distribute the work to their tailors. Each time a client returns to have a new suit made the same tailors make it.
The parallels between Naples and Savile row in my mind seemed so similar its tough to say for sure what sets them apart. Luca spoke about how he wanted his clients to feel as though they weren't wearing a suit, when a client returned from work the last thing he wanted them to do was feel the need to remove their jacket for comfort, one should feel as though they could do anything in their suit without feeling restricted. Every tailor including myself would cringe at the thought that their client looked forward to removing their coat at the days end.
Unfortunately I arrived late to the event and missed the first fifteen or so minutes, some viewers where recording the interview, I wonder if anyone has a video or thoughts they would like to share.
