Random fashion thoughts

[artishard116]

rwd?

 

[wurm]



man im glad I bought this stuff on my own, i'd feel even dirtier if my parents foot the bill. I think being restricted money wise helps your style because you wear your clothes more and ****. I know I have lots of jackets and footwear already, but I wonder how much use people on SZ really get from 90% of their clothing, since I see grails pop up years later barely worn. I see some of the closet pics and its like 30 shoes and 20 jackets, lol. I am jealous but at the same time its like, yah I have all this **** but I cant really enjoy all of it at the same time. At the same time I'm fine with constantly flipping **** because it makes things fresh but at the same time I like to idealize being able to find a jacket you could live in for a long time.
one example:
I really anxiously wait for people to post cool outfits, cuz it RARELY happens...on all forums. However, this dude who I find is one of the best out there style wise seems to have not worn a lot of **** whatsoever. The mollino is a grail of mine, and im surprised its like new after all these years. Its quite surprising..lol. I mean ****, look at the ******* ann d shirt, should be faded as ****, not that intact? or am I underestimating the mileage you can actually get with designer stuff with careful use?
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/in...number-n-pieces/page__p__2677558#entry2677558
I was considering buying it and selling my blistered scuba but then I stopped myself cuz I want to enjoy what I already love, this may be better but I enjoy my **** already so much.
also, random note...did hide-san leave Sharpservicejapan? I feel like hes absent, I dont get the same convos with him and I dont see any email signed his name

Wish you hadn't posted that. Those DD shorts are haunting me. They sold like 3 hours before I saw the thread.

 

[the shah]

How "structured" a shoulder has no direct relation to how it "looks" specifically on a static jacket. A heavily padded/shoulder can look "natural" or square...when the man isn't moving.
A completely unstructured, upadded shoulder can also look "natural" or square...based on, guess what? what the actual shoulder underneath is.
A man with a healthy, natural drop, with even and slightly sloped shoulders, can wear pretty much anything. A man who is a beanpole (or a pineapple) can be tailored to look approximately the same when completely still. The minute that heavily augmented man moves, however, and goes about the business of the day, those shoulders will look like ping pong tables on either side of his neck, rocking to and fro, queasily independent of his body.
The subterfuge, then, is up. It is obvious to the world that you have no game: instead, you have padding, like a padded bra or pants with the ass foam inserts (cue Barry Manilow reference.)
A particularly humorous account of this phenomena is given unconsciously by Reevolving in his sports bar thread, in which he regales us on the reaction of a woman when he puts his elbows up on the back of a bar stool.
Am I biased and exaggerating? Of course. I do so to make my point clear.
Now, getting back to Spoo for a second, many of you seemed to have daydreamed up a concept of his physique which contradicts his own description of his height and weight. He is slim, even skinny. He is not at an athletic weight (strong like LA Guy), although being slim is great for the sport of wearing tailored clothes. Many of his jackets swim at the shoulders, are constricted in the chest, and are too tight at the waist. The human torso is not naturally a round cylinder; so too with Spoo. He's well-shouldered, thin waisted, but also somewhat wide-hipped (bones, not the 5cm pizza problem.) That is what you are seeing revealed in the jacket from yesterday.
If you square out his shoulders to balance the hips, you have succeeded in one dimension and in a static pose. Your success, however, compromises everything else. If you bring in the middle at the side seams to exaggerate this effect further, then the jacket will not be (or will be less often) fluid on the torso when buttoned. It will "stick" like a lifesaver around your belly.
Instead, if you take the basic form of yesterday's jacket, widen the lapels toward the notch, lower the gorge, shorten the jacket, and cut open the fronts more, you would probably accomplish everything needed to balance shoulders-to-hips while still retaining the fluidity of the jacket. You've all seen this kind of cut before because it is all over the Internet in the form of the Liverano stuff that Cho and Crew carry (or facilliate when it is bespoke) and from several other makers like NSM, etc.
As for your last point about purposefully misfitting things to make it more "interesting," I really have no reaction to that point of view since it implies nothing can be wrong or right. If that really really is the belief system that has captured this thread and the Mens Clothing forum in general, then no wonder some of us feel alienated from it.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

but let's not insult anybody

 

[the shah]

Comme Des Garcons HommePlus FW1999

Spoiler: More

 

[the shah]

HELMUT LANG COLLECTION HOMMES FEMMES
SEANCE DE TRAVAIL. DEFILE #HIVER 99/2000
TUESDAY FEBRUARY 16, 1999 2:00 PM
NEW YORK, N.Y.

ALL SILHOUETTES PHOTOGRAPHED BY JUERGEN TELLER, 1999

Copyright

1999 HELMUT LANG

here and here.

Spoiler: more

Photos below taken by Kyle Ericksen

Give Me Space. Photography by Nick Knight, Vogue UK December 1999

Movers, Shakers, Groovers, Fakers: The Fashion Decade. Arena Homme Plus F/W 1999

The first was published in the October 1999 issue of National Geographic.[/SIZE][/B]

Faye Wong

 

[the shah]

Comme des Garcons Homme Plus FW1998

Spoiler: More

 

[the shah]

Comme des Garcons Homme Plus SS1998

Spoiler: More

 

[the shah]

Comme des Garcons Homme Plus FW1997

Spoiler: More

 

[reedobandito]

Today was probably my most fashion filled day ever. Went downtown London at about 9 until 4, saw so many brands/stores/fits/etc. Dover Street Market (amazing), MMM, Drakes, APC, Acne, Uniqlo, Balenciaga, RRL, Layers, so many more. Saw so many brands/pieces I've been curious about for a while now. Really amazing day!

 

[the shah]

did you go laugh in the rick owens store or stop in The Library or check out some cravats at harrods or say hi to LN-CC ??

 

[snowmanxl]

re layers: did you check out the plokhov stuff?

 

[reedobandito]

Couldn't find the RO store, though I tried. Also couldn't find LN-CC or Present London, will need to make a trip to Shoreditch area this week.

Didn't see any Plokhov at Layers, mostly it was hard to look at stuff because I had this tiny Asian girl SA following me around hahaha

Saw lots of Guidi while I was out, especially at DSM. Confirmed my suspicions, can't imagine any of it being more comfortable to wear than strapping wood panels to your feet. Leather felt horrid :-/

 

[reedobandito]

Oh and after having a talk with a cute SA at Dover Street Market, she tracked me down and gave me her card, told me to email her. Gonna ask her on a "date" right meow

 

[Desi]

get that DSM discount so i can buy my Celine Luggage reed!