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RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

classicalthunde

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sorry if this isn't the right place for this convo - but any updates on the state of Rancourt as a whole? I know they were doing the 'pre-order' at cost thing for the past couple of years, and now a couple of their core items are either out of stock or MTO...is this the new normal for them?

I'm particularly interested in the Beefroll Penny-moc (had a pair and wore them out) and the Gilman Camp-moc
 

Garrister

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sorry if this isn't the right place for this convo - but any updates on the state of Rancourt as a whole? I know they were doing the 'pre-order' at cost thing for the past couple of years, and now a couple of their core items are either out of stock or MTO...is this the new normal for them?

I'm particularly interested in the Beefroll Penny-moc (had a pair and wore them out) and the Gilman Camp-moc
The "pre-order" program is not at cost. It's at wholesale. Rancourt is doing fine at those prices because they are batch producing ... like they would for a retailer. Rancourt is building its direct to customer business rather than rely on the wholesale business. I suspect they will continue to use both channels for the near future. I think their primary goal is to keep its factory busy.
 

NonChalant321

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This turned out to be a long post. Sorry about that. Hopefully, my experience will help others find a great fit or perfect combination in their Rancourt journey. I posted photos of my Acadias for reference.

The Acadias are my favorite Rancourt, followed closely by the Ranger. I also like the Byron & Knox for foul weather and cold winter. Each has a sweet spot. Different configurations will fit and feel very different.

I found that once you get the fit dialed in, style & last, you can then experiment with different leather, liners, and soles. This process takes time, especially if you have something other than normal size feet. Upfront disclosure, for me, the wait and $ were worth the investment.

Soles
The soles greatly affect comfort and use; comfort-wise, RLH soles are superior and the Rally is the best for me. The Aspen is slippery on wet surfaces and the RLH with the heel vs wedge is better than the Aspen. The mini-vibram is a great-looking sole, wears well but is pretty hard. The camp soles are very durable and do not offer much comfort on hard surfaces.

Leathers & Liners
I like shoes with thicker leather that will conform to my feet but not stretch much. Rancourt is so cool in that you can mix and match almost any of their leathers, styles, and soles to create your own custom shoe. Want a (3) hole boat shoe instead of the (2) hole stock shoe, no problem, just ask. You have to pay to play but I don't know of any other shoemaker that offers this. On top of that, the quality and build of their shoes and boots are exceptional.

My Acadias
My first was a custom order in unlined Toast Rushmore Bison on their standard sole. I love the look and feel of the shoe but it is 1/2 size too small. I could not return it as I had worn them trying to figure out why they were not comfortable Turned out the thicker leather and stiffer sole added structure and caused the shoe to flex in an area that my feet did not like. This was a different fit compared to the same size Ranger on camp soles. I had a second pair made, a 1/2 size up in the same leather. When they arrived, the leather was very dark and different from the Rushmore. Rancourt agreed to take them back. Is anyone interested in this Acadia in a 10.5B?

My second pair was a crowdfunded unlined natty CXL on their standard Acadia sole. I wanted to dial my size in before doing any more custom Acadias. These fit fine at first but after wearing them for about six months they stretched to the point that I had to add a tongue pad, thin insert, DR Schol odor eater, and wear thick socks. Now the leather looks and feels like a crumpled grocery bag. It has no structure or support. These are my grass cutting and yard work Acadias.

I was getting closer to dialing in my size and leather options. I figured I needed a thick structured leather, a lining, and the RLH Rally sole. I sourced some brown medium-weight horse butt from Maverick Leather and sent it to Rancourt. they made a pair of lined Acadia's on the Rally sole for me. These are the perfect chukka for me. They fit great, are structured, and provide some support with boot-like leather, a smooth soft lining, and the superb Rally sole. The leather is heavy enough to deal with the snow and salt in our Wisconsin winters. The cost was a little extra, but well worth the risk. These Acadias are my favorite ones.

During the last crowdfunding, I saw the Acadia ReDux being offered in natty Essex with a Rally sole for a steep discount. No hesitation at all. That combination checked all the boxes except the lining. The Essex is thick, soft, and supple, not much structure but very comfortable on the Rally. This leather will become even better with time and will not end up looking like crumpled shopping bags. They are soft and lightweight with a very comfortable sole. These are not a work boot at all, more like a slipper designed for the outside. My wife even commented on the softness of the leather. Oh, and did I mention the potential patina on the Veggy tanned Essex? These are my second favorite Acadias!

Everyone's feet are different. It has taken me some time and $ to figure out which Rancourt's, lasts, View attachment 1824052 View attachment 1824053 View attachment 1824054

Upper quarters touch after lacing due to stretching of CXL.
View attachment 1824055 View attachment 1824056 View attachment 1824057

CXL on the top shoes is very thin compared to horse butt plus lining.
View attachment 1824058 View attachment 1824059 View attachment 1824060 and makeups fit me the best. This is a challenge when you have to do everything mail order. I have figured out the Rancourt models and options that fit me best. Turns out the combinations require custom make-ups which add a little $ to the price. The benefit is a great looking and fitting shoe plus you are supporting a USA family-run business. I have talked with Kyle Rancourt and members of his staff on the phone. They are truly customer focused and will stand behind their product. I feel like they are almost giving their shoes away when they crowdfund them.

I support them every chance I get.
@Luscombe any update on how the Acadia redux are aging? I'm curious about how soft the natural essex can get and the patina/ color changes.
 

Luscombe

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I like them. The patina is not as much as I had hoped. They are very soft and comfortable. the acadia's are my favorite fit. One key is the sole and the other the leather. The Rally sole with a Dr. Scholl odor eater insert makes the fit sublime. I will send photos of the Redux. I see they are discontinuing that leather.

I have two pair of Acadia's I really like, Natural Essex and custom horse butt I sent them. Those two pair get more use than my Rangers. So much so that I am considering a pair in Espresso Shell. I don't really need another pair but.....

I'll post some photos tonight.
 

GentlemanJeff

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Essex has a drier hand and wrinkles more but natural gets an incredible patina and turns into a golden brown that can’t be replicated with dye.

I don’t really see the appeal of black essex but to each their own!
 

NonChalant321

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Essex has a drier hand and wrinkles more but natural gets an incredible patina and turns into a golden brown that can’t be replicated with dye.

I don’t really see the appeal of black essex but to each their own!
Is Essex softer or more glove-like? I have Chromexcel which has molded pretty well, but interested in Essex if it's even softer and more unstructured deerskin in terms of floppiness (provided it's unlined)
 

GentlemanJeff

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Is Essex softer or more glove-like? I have Chromexcel which has molded pretty well, but interested in Essex if it's even softer and more unstructured deerskin in terms of floppiness (provided it's unlined)
I would say comparable levels of softness to chromexcel. If anything essex is probably slightly less soft/pliable than chromexcel, but its a similar ballpark.
 

SpallaPerfetta

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Has anyone had issues getting in touch with Rancourt CS? I’ve sent multiple emails about a return and have not received any response nor the refund.
 

GentlemanJeff

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David answered a couple of questions for me roughly a week ago...timeline was normal for online retail CS stuff.

Maybe it got lost in the mix...
They did feel like they were a bit radio silent/MIA before the latest pre sale announcement. Maybe people actually take time off for the holidays in Maine.

Setting aside the MTO/retail stuff, Rancourt seems to have a pretty thriving white label business. Safe to say they’re white labeling all Mocs “made in Maine” at this stage? Or is there another operation still going?
 

Aenonymous

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They did feel like they were a bit radio silent/MIA before the latest pre sale announcement. Maybe people actually take time off for the holidays in Maine.

Setting aside the MTO/retail stuff, Rancourt seems to have a pretty thriving white label business. Safe to say they’re white labeling all Mocs “made in Maine” at this stage? Or is there another operation still going?
If by "white label" you mean any mocs being marketed as "made in Maine" regardless of brand name are being made by Rancourt, no, there are still several other handsewing operations in Maine besides Rancourt.
 

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