One loafer above all others

[C&A]

ok in my books, a lovely shoe still

i must warn you all for GEMMING FAILURE though

 

[Mirage-]

I don't really have a theory worked out, just my experience.



But over time, I found myself just reaching for the brown ones more, realizing that the black penny didn't look quite right. At least for my taste.

Then one day I went out to lunch with a friend, and he was wearing black tassel loafers. I felt those looked really good and bought a pair of Alden for Brooks Brothers (standard Alden design with foxing at the back). Now I wear those all the time -- more than brown penny loafers or black penny loafers. I think they're in my top three most worn shoes.

A different friend of mine, who grew up wearing trad in the 70s and 80s, said that he wears black tassel loafers any time he feels he can wear a black knit tie. He claims it's a Boston thing, but since I didn't grow up in Bostonian trad circles, I can't confirm. Still, I feel they work really well with navy sport coats and grey trousers, brown tweeds and tan trousers, and almost any suit (casual suits, formal suits, etc).

Aesthetically, I feel that black pennies are missing something -- a tassel or horsebit -- which makes the shoes more distinctly casual. More significantly, I think black tassel and bit loafers make more sense to me, as that's what I see on lawyers. I don't really see black penny loafers anywhere, so they don't feel as culturally grounded to me.

That said, lots of people hate tassel or bit loafers because the styles are associated with jerks (e.g., aggressive finance/ law types). I think that's reasonable, although I think you can also wear these things without being a jerk.

I only started wearing loafers when I got myself a black (cordovan) tassel loafer, particularly since I've always strongly disliked the penny shape.
I don't actually see anyone wearing tassels, at work nor casually. I guess they must be out of fashion here in Italy, so at first it felt like a bit of a bold move, but now I am used to them. Funny enough, whenever I walk around Prati, most of the lawyers (and other professionals) I meet wear penny loafers, not the apparently stereotypical tassels.
Yet, I feel tassels are smart enough to go with tailoring much better than pennies, while also "chic" enough to work with refined casualwear, particularly in cordovan.
The only problem is that most of my summer trousers are beige. Curiously, I find black loafers work well either with the traditional backdrop for black (i.e. dark trousers) or with high-contrast (white, cream and other off-whites mainly), but beige tones just don't seem to convince me, even though you say they work well with tan.
Which is why I've just added a brown suede tassel loafer, so I can finally wear tassel loafers with all my summer outfits.
On the other hand, I can't seem to shake the association between horsebit loafers and Gucci, and by transitivity, with pretentious rich and famous influencers of dubious merits, or similar figures.

 

[Gus]

I'm heading to Italy for a few weeks. It's F*&K'n hot. I'm taking two pairs of shoes, a JM Weston 180 tan (caramel color) loafer and Stan Smith white/white sneakers. In finding your "best loafer" it must be first comfortable and then suit your style. For me, that is the model 180. (I won't be wearing socks in 90 degree heat)

 

[DonRaphael]

Would you mind posting some photos of yours'? I'm planning to get one in burgundy, which I suppose is similar to oxblood. So, I'd love to see what yours' looks like.

Also, how satisfied are u with the leather/finishing and overall purchase?

As promised. Incoming. Oxblood calf on the F last with some tweaks compared to the standard loafer offered by Vass.

 

[hysteria]

As promised. Incoming. Oxblood calf on the F last with some tweaks compared to the standard loafer offered by Vass.
View attachment 1803794

Looks beautiful
Difficult to judge colour in that lighting - looks like dark brown here. Would love to see some photos in ambient lighting to make out the colour.
Seemsl ike it arrived a bit earlier than you expected right?

 

[DonRaphael]

Looks beautiful
Difficult to judge colour in that lighting - looks like dark brown here. Would love to see some photos in ambient lighting to make out the colour.
Seemsl ike it arrived a bit earlier than you expected right?

Vass describes oxblood as brown with a red undertone. Unlike the plum museum or bordeaux which is distinctively red(er).

They haven't arrived yet. They just finished. I'll probably let them sit at the shop until my other shoes are finished as well before I ask them to ship the shoes out. I'll make sure to take pics once they've arrived, which might take a couple of more weeks.

 

[hysteria]

Vass describes oxblood as brown with a red undertone. Unlike the plum museum or bordeaux which is distinctively red(er).

They haven't arrived yet. They just finished. I'll probably let them sit at the shop until my other shoes are finished as well before I ask them to ship the shoes out. I'll make sure to take pics once they've arrived, which might take a couple of more weeks.

How was the communication process for you?
IN my case, I will require some instep adjustments and such and I've been in communication with them for 8 weeks with very little progress because they are so slow to respond to questions. I feel like it will take 6 months just to nail the specs before even putting in an order at this pace.

 

[DonRaphael]

How was the communication process for you?
IN my case, I will require some instep adjustments and such and I've been in communication with them for 8 weeks with very little progress because they are so slow to respond to questions. I feel like it will take 6 months just to nail the specs before even putting in an order at this pace.

Tbh, communication has been flawless. But tbh again, I'm/I've been in constant contact with them for a while since I've been placing several orders the last year or so. But generally speaking, my understanding is that they've been overworked. Orders are coming in again and some people have left. Just be patient and I'm sure you'll get answers soon enough.

 

[taxgenius]

Can these be worn casually (i.e., not slacks and sports coat)?

Tassel Loafer Almond 2

The Cavour Tassel loafer is made on our Almond 2 last. Which has a rounded almond shaped toe, standard instep, and E width. The medium height vamp makes for a flattering fit wether worn with formal trousers or with jeans sans socks.Goodyear WeltedClosed Channel SolesTapered and beveled...

cavour.co

 

[JohnMRobie]

Can these be worn casually (i.e., not slacks and sports coat)?

View attachment 1803833

Tassel Loafer Almond 2

The Cavour Tassel loafer is made on our Almond 2 last. Which has a rounded almond shaped toe, standard instep, and E width. The medium height vamp makes for a flattering fit wether worn with formal trousers or with jeans sans socks.Goodyear WeltedClosed Channel SolesTapered and beveled...

cavour.co

Were it me and I wanted to wear them casually I’d probably opt for black over brown. In a smooth leather I find black tassels are easier to wear and can be mixed into a trad look with certain types of denim parings and I rarely reached for my brown pair. If casual means more chinos and OCBDs or a field jacket I’d think suede is an easier option to use.

 

[DonRaphael]

Looks beautiful
Difficult to judge colour in that lighting - looks like dark brown here. Would love to see some photos in ambient lighting to make out the colour.
Seemsl ike it arrived a bit earlier than you expected right?

Dark brown museum vs Oxblood. The latter is noticeably more red.

 

[Nickd]

Can these be worn casually (i.e., not slacks and sports coat)?

View attachment 1803833

Tassel Loafer Almond 2

The Cavour Tassel loafer is made on our Almond 2 last. Which has a rounded almond shaped toe, standard instep, and E width. The medium height vamp makes for a flattering fit wether worn with formal trousers or with jeans sans socks.Goodyear WeltedClosed Channel SolesTapered and beveled...

cavour.co

Definitely. Both jeans and chinos work well with them. I think tassel loafers are one of the most versatile shoes around.

 

[Lamschke]

I have a question about the Tricker‘s James Loafes in Chocolate Suede.
Can you wear them with a classic navy blazer and grey wool trousers combination or is it to casual due to the beefroll and the split-toe?
Are chinos/moleskin the maximum?

 

[acconrad]

I actually did this and reduced myself down to the Alden by Brooks 763 Unlined LHS in Shell #8 Cordovan. I've worn it with jeans, chinos, and my navy suit (for my casual semi-formal occasions). Cordovan works with jeans or suits. The profile is great for casual or formal clothes. Sleek, unlined, and super comfortable. And a classic trad style that's really well made.

 

[fracanzano]

I can't decide on one loafer above all others, but I can decide on two, both penny loafers: JM Weston 180 grained leather, which everyone knows, and Laszlo Vass model 14 on the Budapester last, which one has to order in this configuration. I always swore I'd never wear tassel loafers, but I have been tempted recently by what seems to me a superior and more masculine tassel loafer, by Santoni. Here are photos of the latter two: