Official Rochester Tailored Clothing (formerly Hickey Freeman) Thread

[Epaulet]

I guess for BB there is
BBBF
Madison
Fitzgerald
Regent
Milano
Cambridge
Own Make

No idea about HF

We can do these BB jackets:

Madison
Fitzgerald
Regent
Milano
Cambridge

I doubt that they have the patterns for Black Fleece, but we could do an MTM that emulates it.

"Own Make" is the label that Southwick/BB would put into a private label jacket with their own pattern. For example, you might see that tag in a Todd Snyder or Billy Reid jacket.

 

[Epaulet]

This was a fun project that we ran for one of our best customers.

So... when Joe Biden was inaugurated, Ralph Lauren provided his suit and overcoat for the event. The actual production of these garments was done at RTC.

The overcoat was a special order blend of 80% wool and 20% cashmere, and just 10 yards of fabric were milled. Around 3.5y of the cloth was used for Joe Biden's piece, and I got access to the remaining cloth. We made one custom overcoat in it and one custom chore jacket (Doyle).

The overcoat came out beautiful! This is part of the Epaulet business model. Finding a rare fabric with an interesting backstory, offering it at a great price (we were able to do this for $950), and then making it in the States with talented craftspeople. Outside of this being a great jacket, it's a cool talking point and a little piece of American history.

That particular cloth is long gone, but I'm always sourcing unexpected goods. I'll keep this thread updated with new releases.

 

[LVEsq]

Is it a possibility to re-do the sport coats with a wider, peak lapels? I am quite interested in a few, but could not figure out the custom program through the website. I would also be interested in surgeon cuffs and a ticket pocket on the left side.

Thanks,

 

[jeremygo]

This was a fun project that we ran for one of our best customers.

So... when Joe Biden was inaugurated, Ralph Lauren provided his suit and overcoat for the event. The actual production of these garments was done at RTC.

The overcoat was a special order blend of 80% wool and 20% cashmere, and just 10 yards of fabric were milled. Around 3.5y of the cloth was used for Joe Biden's piece, and I got access to the remaining cloth. We made one custom overcoat in it and one custom chore jacket (Doyle).

The overcoat came out beautiful! This is part of the Epaulet business model. Finding a rare fabric with an interesting backstory, offering it at a great price (we were able to do this for $950), and then making it in the States with talented craftspeople. Outside of this being a great jacket, it's a cool talking point and a little piece of American history.

That particular cloth is long gone, but I'm always sourcing unexpected goods. I'll keep this thread updated with new releases.

View attachment 1979293
View attachment 1979291
View attachment 1979305

This is really really cool and great to see it being done with talented artisans in Rochester! As a former upstater, it's awesome to see! Will send my family in Rochester and Syracuse your way.

 

[Epaulet]

Is it a possibility to re-do the sport coats with a wider, peak lapels? I am quite interested in a few, but could not figure out the custom program through the website. I would also be interested in surgeon cuffs and a ticket pocket on the left side.

Thanks,

Thanks for the questions!

This feedback is really valuable. So... I have a legacy of making a ton of tailored garments. Prior to RTC, we did almost 12,000 individual pieces with Southwick, so we have a large existing client base of guys who already know what "Nuovo" and "Walt" and "Taylor" are. But I get that this can be confusing for anyone looking at this for the first time.

Feel free to ask me anything here or via the chat function of the site. And I think I'll do an FAQ page to run alongside our product pages, as you're probably not the only one with that question.

And when you're ready to order, we can talk through it step by step. Many times, people message me what they want and I create a unique custom item for them on our site, which has all the needed details. That way it's easy to check out, and you don't have to go select all of the dropdowns and such.

So with regards to this:

1) We can definitely do peak lapels up to 4" on our Nuovo single breasted jacket. I actually have a few of them running through right now. A peak lapel is standard on our DB, and you can see that here...



2) Surgeon's cuffs are available on all models. It's a $50 upcharge. Measuring the sleeve inseam is the best guide for that. We can get down to 0.25" increments and right and left sleeves can be done with different lengths.

3) No problem for ticket pocket on the left side!

This is really really cool and great to see it being done with talented artisans in Rochester! As a former upstater, it's awesome to see! Will send my family in Rochester and Syracuse your way.

Thank you so much! I'm in Los Angeles, but I can do a remote fitting with any customer living anywhere! I don't believe that the factory is offering in-person fittings at this time, but I'll advise if that changes.

 

[othertravel]

Do you also offer a full canvass?

 

[Epaulet]

Do you also offer a full canvass?

We do! It’s a $150 upgrade and they do a beautiful job of finishing it

 

[gimpwiz]

We made one custom overcoat in it and one custom chore jacket (Doyle).

I'd love to see the chore coat too, out of curiosity. What a neat story, though.

 

[Epaulet]

I'd love to see the chore coat too, out of curiosity. What a neat story, though.

I got you! Just a quick snapshot, but it was a beautiful piece. Shipped to a client in Hong Kong…

 

[mlstein]

To answer my own question: the storefront has been rebranded RTC. I don't think anything is in there yet but it's a good sign.

I live in Rochester and mourn the passing of the name and (I assume) the factory store. I wish you all the best! Is the storefront on Broad and Union in Rochester going to be anything other than the Memorial Day one-off?

 

[Epaulet]

Big thanks to whoever started this Reddit thread!

If you have an account there, then this is another venue to interact.

 

[Epaulet]

Trousers are a huge part of our business with RTC.

As you guys might know, we were the largest account for Hertling for many years. The product that we're making with RTC is honestly superior in every way, and we're looking to radically ramp up production in the Fall.

If you want to try out one of their products and you're not ready to commit to the whole sportcoat or suit, then this is a great entry point. Here's some examples of pieces that we've recently done:

 

[comrade]

Okay let's show some recent makeups. First off... sportcoats. Our signature shape is the "Nuovo," which is a soft shouldered, half canvas Neopolitan single breasted...

Aged Silver Silk-Linen Herringbone
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Loro Piana Dark Raisin Check Boucle
View attachment 1978735

Barbera Smokey Blue S130s Blue Flannel Check
View attachment 1978733

Don't look like 4" lapels

 

[Seaminglyso]

Great story re the special cloth!! How'd you let people know? I imagine they went to old and faithful customers?

 

[kashmir]

I guess for BB there is
BBBF
Madison
Fitzgerald
Regent
Milano
Cambridge
Own Make

No idea about HF

ah, to think that these cuts are now considered the old cuts... also aren't those Italian made? man, if we can resurrect the true MIUSA vintage BB dartless fit from the 80s or older that would be gold. still one of the best RTW shoulders in my opinion.