Non-Rule "Rules"

[romafan]



yes . . . it is primarily the look. Cotton is for blowing your nose and generally looks like it. If you ever have linen and cotton side by side, you will see the difference. In any event, this is a decorative object and it doesn't make sense to swap in a cheap, cotton handkerchief for a linen square - especially since in absolute terms, linen doesn't cost so much.
These are nice Irish linen (or used to be when I last bough them) and at $49 for three are not that expensive. They also have cotton voile from Italy (which should be nice and thin if you really like cotton). And it is not that far from Le Marais.

I bought a package of nice Irish linen squares (I think for Press, but maybe BB or PS) that were just too big - perhaps 17 or 18". I've seen others w/ the same dimensions - is this a usable size? Can they even fit in any breast pocket ? Silk yes, but I can't see a linen square this size working...

 

[DocHolliday]

I like cotton in certain applications. Have a white cotton square with blue embroidery along the edges that's possibly my most worn. But then, I don't like white linen for puff purposes. And I'm opposed to solid white silk (or solid cream -- sorry, Foo).

 

[sugarbutch]

I don't get why linen squares are sold as sets. Why would I need three?

Stitchy's blazer question in the well dressed essentials thread brings me to this addition to my set of non-rules:

No shiny metal buttons.

 

[Fuuma]



I don't get why linen squares are sold as sets. Why would I need three?
Stitchy's blazer question in the well dressed essentials thread brings me to this addition to my set of non-rules:
No shiny metal buttons.

I leave 6-8 in various jackets, makes things easier.

 

[in stitches]



Stitchy's blazer question in the well dressed essentials thread brings me to this addition to my set of non-rules:
No shiny metal buttons.

+1. maybe if i was a country club kid id feel differently, but as it stands, they feel very cheesy to me when i try them on.

i have seen them work on others, but its a no go for me.

 

[zeero3]



Hmmmmmm...non-rule rules or idiosyncrasies:

• A breast pocket demands a square (OK, except on an overcoat)
• No white shirts with odd jackets (and almost never with blazers; maybe that is becoming a rule)
• A white shirt with a suit should be FC, unless the suit is ultra-casual.
• No BD shirts with suits, ever. I keep trying to loosen this rule but every time I try it I wind up changing before going out - something in me rejects the idea.
• Only brown or oxblood shoes with odd jackets / blazers
• No suits without ties. Once or twice a year I break this rule with a more evening-ish suit, thinking I look louche and dégagé, only to get home late and realize I look like an ass. I like the look on others sometimes; the rule applies to me.
• I studiously avoid matching the colors of my brace tabs and my shoes. Yeah, that's right - I'm a rebel. Lock up your daughters.
• Excessive trouser break bothers me more than anything else.
• All suit trousers take cuffs. 99% of non-suit tailored trousers take cuffs.
• I find I don't like fabrics made up with <11-12oz cloth, despite living in the tropics most of the time. I'd rather heavy linens, open weaves, et cetera.
• I'm formal enough that a suit is what I'd choose 90+% of the time, but I love suits in informal cloths or with less-formal design touches such as patch pockets. I would never go to work without a suit and tie, but I don't mind showing up in a linen 3-patch suit
• Shoes are made in Northhampton. Full stop.
• No metal cufflinks on colored shirts or during the daytime
• Only double-link cufflinks

I feel the same with almost all of these. The only one that I don't use as a rule, yet am constantly thinking about, is wearing a BD with a suit. Will be wearing pink BD with charcoal DB for my engagement photos, but I keep thinking about it and wondering if it's gonna fly with me in 15 years looking back.... This is what my nightmares are made of......

 

[sugarbutch]

Don't do it!

 

[Christopher Essex]



+1. maybe if i was a country club kid id feel differently, but as it stands, they feel very cheesy to me when i try them on.
i have seen them work on others, but its a no go for me.

Yes, my friend, but your style is evolving...not more than 6 months ago, you'd never wear a blue shirt with a suit. Now look at you - even considering BD shirts!

So, I see shiny blazer buttons in your future.

 

[zeero3]

Wearing a BD with a suit evokes a comfortable, relaxed portrayal--if done right of course. It looked so standard in the 20s/30s, how appalling has this become? I admit, a BD looks much better on a DB than a SB suit, so much so that I've never worn them with SB suits. Maybe it's the "casual" pairing of the DB that fits the collar of the shirt.

 

[unbelragazzo]



Wearing a BD with a suit evokes a comfortable, relaxed portrayal--if done right of course. It looked so standard in the 20s/30s, how appalling has this become? I admit, a BD looks much better on a DB than a SB suit, so much so that I've never worn them with SB suits. Maybe it's the "casual" pairing of the DB that fits the collar of the shirt.

?? My understanding is DB suit is more formal than SB suit, but less formal than 3pc SB suit.

 

[Manton]

I used to think DB was more formal too, and I still think it is in the American context. But I later learned that in England, it was considered a less formal alternative to 3-piece SB because it allows you to dispense with the vest.

 

[unbelragazzo]



I used to think DB was more formal too, and I still think it is in the American context. But I later learned that in England, it was considered a less formal alternative to 3-piece SB because it allows you to dispense with the vest.

Right...that's what I said I think...but it is still more formal than the SB worn without the vest, yes?

 

[Manton]

I would say yes

 

[sugarbutch]

I believe the DB was originally the less-formal option. Its current rarity may make it seem more formal.

 

[zeero3]



I believe the DB was originally the less-formal option. Its current rarity may make it seem more formal.

This is my understanding as well.