Nigel Cabourn

[desolate]

Well noticed! I have no idea at all why I said piece of cake

I have read your blog and seen your videos and your English is considerably better than mine normally!

 

[WDD_Blog]

I have read your blog and seen your videos and your English is considerably better than mine normally!

Many thanks, kind sir

 

[ike_hiking_boots]

James Taylor & Son (Marylebone) window display: The Hilary Boot

This brown walking boot was made in 1952 for Sir Edmond Hilary to climb Mount Everest.

It was never worn because the parcel broke in transit to India and one boot was lost; a replacement boot was made and later the lost boot was found and returned.

It is a whole cut with only a seam at the back, two mid soles, double stitched, hob nails soles and a recessed toe plate.

 

[dieworkwear]

Regarding comments on the previous page about quality, I think it's useful to separate the idea of quality from design. A lot of what was described in the last page of comments is more about design than actual quality. It would be like saying green apples are of better quality than red apples, simply because they're green and sour.

The quality of my Cabourn pieces have all been top notch -- fabrics from top-end mills, nice level of detailing, solid construction, great trims, etc. I don't know how the hole appeared in that one poster's jacket, but the fact that a hole appear doesn't ipso facto say that the jacket was of poor quality. Holes can appear on Savile Row garments, depending on the type of fabric, how the garment was treated, etc. The jacket may still be constructed to the best standards.

Prices are high but you're paying for design. Reducing everything here to just "quality" almost misses the point.

 

[Werder]

Regarding comments on the previous page about quality, I think it's useful to separate the idea of quality from design. A lot of what was described in the last page of comments is more about design than actual quality. It would be like saying green apples are of better quality than red apples, simply because they're green and sour.

The quality of my Cabourn pieces have all been top notch -- fabrics from top-end mills, nice level of detailing, solid construction, great trims, etc. I don't know how the hole appeared in that one poster's jacket, but the fact that a hole appear doesn't ipso facto say that the jacket was of poor quality. Holes can appear on Savile Row garments, depending on the type of fabric, how the garment was treated, etc. The jacket may still be constructed to the best standards.

Prices are high but you're paying for design. Reducing everything here to just "quality" almost misses the point.

I agree that a hole in a jacket necessarily doesn't mean that the quality is bad but it could be an indication.

I think that there were a lot of useful comments about the quality. Durability which is mentioned is obviously linked to quality.

The "sale pitch" which Nigel uses in his interviews are often based around that fact that you buy something that will last for many years and i have "bought" this story myself too. I dont think this story matches the reality.

 

[dieworkwear]

The "sale pitch" which Nigel uses in his interviews are often based around that fact that you buy something that will last for many years and i have "bought" this story myself too. I dont think this story matches the reality.

Literally every fashion brand and designer says that though. Nigel's position is a little more defendable because he specializes in workwear, which tends to be more durable than fine Italian cashmere knits or some avant garde designer pieces. But literally everyone says "buy this thing! You'll wear it/ love it/ use it for the rest of your life."

IMO, design is more important than durability. It's not that difficult to make something that lasts (outside of certain items, such as trousers, anyway). It's much harder to design things that someone will love in ten years time. Most clothes on the market won't fall apart, but few of them are things you'll want to wear after a few years. IMO, Nigel Cabourn does some really great pieces, and as much as my tastes have changed over the years, some of the things I've bought from him remain favorites. It's hard to name many companies like that.

 

[patrick_b]

James Taylor & Son (Marylebone) window display: The Hilary Boot

This brown walking boot was made in 1952 for Sir Edmond Hilary to climb Mount Everest.

It was never worn because the parcel broke in transit to India and one boot was lost; a replacement boot was made and later the lost boot was found and returned.

It is a whole cut with only a seam at the back, two mid soles, double stitched, hob nails soles and a recessed toe plate.

View attachment 799649 View attachment 799650 View attachment 799651

The one thing that bugs me about the Hillary boot display is that the shoelaces are way too short and it's tied in a granny knot. You have to get the details right.

 

[Werder]

Literally every fashion brand and designer says that though. Nigel's position is a little more defendable because he specializes in workwear, which tends to be more durable than fine Italian cashmere knits or some avant garde designer pieces. But literally everyone says "buy this thing! You'll wear it/ love it/ use it for the rest of your life."

IMO, design is more important than durability. It's not that difficult to make something that lasts (outside of certain items, such as trousers, anyway). It's much harder to design things that someone will love in ten years time. Most clothes on the market won't fall apart, but few of them are things you'll want to wear after a few years. IMO, Nigel Cabourn does some really great pieces, and as much as my tastes have changed over the years, some of the things I've bought from him remain favorites. It's hard to name many companies like that.

My question was how people have experienced the quality of Nigel Cabourn garments. I personally think about durability when i think about quality but i guess people could have different views on what quality is.

There are many companies that make great pieces that lasts many years. I love my blue Acne shirt today as much as i did when i bought it five years ago. Its blue, it fits me perfectly and its something i wanna wear for more years to come. I have several other examples of "timeless" pieces in my wardrobe which isn't Nigel Cabourn. Yes, Nigel Cabourn does some great pieces but i think its important to be critical when i experience that the quality is rather bad on the products that they produce. And the last collections has been rather uninteresting in my opinion..

 

[planetarium]

Grabbed a couple pairs of hi army trainers and they're the best sneakers I've ever worn, perfect for my feet. Does anybody know what Nigel's British size translates to in Moonstar sizing? Is it half a size up?

 

[ike_hiking_boots]

Cabourn final markdowns.

 

[TTSpeeder]

Cabourn final markdowns.

I wanted the Lybro Rail Jacket in Indigo during this current sale, but after doing some research, I found some references on Japanese websites to the jacket being made in China.
Can anybody clarify this for me? Is this a thing with the entire Lybro line?
End clothing for example won't clearly mark where its made other than stating that it uses British and Japanese materials, with other lines on that site clearly stating Made in England. On a chat last night on End Clothing, they said it's made in the UK yet I don't believe it now.

 

[Eric Gill Sans]

Pretty sure most of the Lyro range is made in China (Hong Kong)
When it first came out it was stated as being a more cost effective range because of this

 

[WDD_Blog]

Back when it was launched there was a lot of talk about a "special factory" in Hong Kong with lots of vintage machines and exceptional knowhow. The range was also to be made in Europe, Portugal comes to mind. Compared to stuff made in the UK it's low cost production, though compared to Bangladesh or whatever other hell hole is currently leading the race towards costless production, it's kind of middling. It's interesting to see how Lybro prices have shot up though, didn't the trousers start out at 200-somet

 

[dieworkwear]

A few designers have told me how they know of factories in China that do better work than the ones they use in Western Europe and the US, but they can't use them because of how sensitive customers are about country-of-origin labels. I don't know why NC's garments need to be discounted just because they're made in China. If you're handling the item, ignore the country of origin label and just try the garment on. The quality should be obvious.

Perversely, the sensitivity over country of origin labels is, at times, making consumers get inferior products because they value a name more than actual quality.

 

[WDD_Blog]

Well, Cabourn has always championed the case of quality made in the UK, so it's quite natural for fans of the brand to react when China and Portugal turn up on the tags. These countries are overwhelmingly known for their low production costs and dubious working conditions, high quality doesn't really get a mention. Granted, there is no guarantee that something made in the UK is better, or that it's not the same Eastern Europeans manning the machines as if it was made in Latvia, but the deeper you delve the more hazy and complicated it gets. No doubt China can and does make some absolutely top quality things, and indeed I recently came across something or other that could only be made in China, due to their extraordinary production capabilities. It's certainly not the case of everything being either good or bad in China, but paying 400 pounds for a pair of trousers when more openly low cost retailers charge 20 for a pair does feel like you're being taken for a ride. You might argue that there are more details, a higher grade of fabric and a lower production number, but.. Even moleskin trousers made in Hebden Bridge cost around 100 pounds a pair, and while the construction isn't sublime, the fabric is made in Britain and all the girls manning the machines grew up locally.