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Nigel Cabourn

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Fuuma, Nov 14, 2010.

  1. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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    Love the colour of this smock - the brown taping against the navy and the beige coloured hood.

    From Superdenim


    [​IMG]
     
  2. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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    Received the SS13 camo waistcoat from Trunk today - really pleased, it is beautifully made. Nigel Cabourn clothing just gets better and better. The finishing which has been a bit suspect on previous SS cotton type jackets and waistcoats is outstanding - not one loose thread and the stitching lines are near perfect with some great detailing
    It is a bit greener and darker than last years camo print but it is exactly the same pattern. The same butcher buttons as last year unifies the pairing and I like the slight difference

    I am struggling uploading photos for some reason so ill post this and try to post the photos in a few minutes on my next post
     
  3. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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  4. irbe

    irbe Senior member

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    I'm not a huge can of the camo, but that is nice.
     
  5. ManofKent

    ManofKent Senior member

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    Definitely works together.
     
  6. ike_hiking_boots

    ike_hiking_boots Senior member

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    I think I read somewhere that NG is planning on opening a store this Spring in London.

    Can any one confirm I read correctly and have any more details about location etc.?
     
  7. archer34

    archer34 Member

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    That combo with the brown jacket and the camo vest looks great
    I used my brown/black mallory vest and tenzing camo jacket together and that looked great too.
     
  8. buzzlulu

    buzzlulu Senior member

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    Eric
    Thanks for the photos. I tend to go for the slim fit - the one Nigel is wearing looks to be a size too big (for my taste).

    Now that SS13 is starting to appear I wonder how many retailers will carry the Camo jacket? I have only seen two online retailers who carry it. It was available last year as the Tenzig so perhaps the shops do not want to carry it for a second season.

    Gregg
     
  9. bensolujofin

    bensolujofin Well-Known Member

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    I had an interesting chat with the sales assistant in Flannels' Liverpool store a few months ago, he was saying that NC is nowhere near as popular in Liverpool as it is in Manchester. (It seems that scousers prefer Moncler...) So they had tons of stock out on the racks, many things which aren't on their site (I think you've mentioned this before..) I got the impression they would be willing to do deals to shift some stock.
     
  10. NickJohannessen

    NickJohannessen Senior member

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    I was watching their raw yellow Cameraman month after month, having seen it in their Liverpool shop last summer. Went to 50% and sat there. Their website always has loads of stock and static prices, even while everyone else is reducing and clearing out stock.

    Isn't it a given that to shift NC you need to offer serious discounts? :)

    I've sort of thought this was the business model: Initially offer the garments at insane prices, then offer a decent discount. Everyone is after a good deal, so with a discount it'll sell, even if the price is still in the realms of the ludicrous. And if you manage to sell some stuff at full retail, the bottom line is even happier.
     
  11. Jagger_On

    Jagger_On Senior member

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    When I first heard about it, I was told Dover Street but I was talking to the guys up at Tailor at the Tannery a few weeks back and they reckoned it was going to be on Mount Street. Sounds like he's looking for somewhere in Mayfair.


    I'm not sure I agree with this and think its a bit of a forum myth. The great thing about this forum is we all share our pics and experiences. We search out great deals and then let other people on the forum know where we got a good deal so that we can help each other and I think this contributes to the myth that stuff only sells on discount. I remember the discussion on here when AW12 launched and people were saying how overpriced it was (which it is) and how they wouldn't sell anything until sale time. I'm not sure if it was just the pieces I had my eye on but most retailers only had a few pieces in 1 or 2 sizes left come sale time. Its a terrible business model if the plan isn't to sell anything until you offer the item at 50% off. Either the retailer will go bust sooner or later or the brand will.

    Take a shop like Corniche for example (only picking them as I know the shop), they had full runs of most items (Mallory's in all colourways, both the limited edition double breasted jackets, trousers, shirts, etc) and I know from speaking to them and going in to the shop every so often that they sold through a ton of stock and tried to get extra and when it came to sale time they only had the odd size left like any other brand come sale time. Obviously, some things are going to sell quicker than others but I think this forum underestimates the demand for Cabourn at full price a little.

    Having said that, it does look like the SS13 prices haven't been subject to any increase in price like we have seen recently and some of the shirts seem a little cheaper. It will be interesting to see how the quality of the fabric, construction, etc compares.
     
  12. NickJohannessen

    NickJohannessen Senior member

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    You're probably right. Given that they only make about 500 each of Mallorys and Cameramen each season, and that the main share of that goes to Japan, there are a good few that hit the sales. Of course, some of those are like the hideous orange Mallorys that USHOWU has a full range of (...), but even the popular choices normally have a fair selection spread around.

    Granted though, for the business model to even enjoy a modicum of success, they must be primarily aiming at selling the bulk of product at full retail.

    The fact that there is still plenty to be found on sales is good for the bottom feeders like me though...
     
  13. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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    I do agree with you on this - its my experience talking to the various successful Nigel Cabourn Stockists that much of the inventory is sold at the full price.

    Endclothing and Corniche who are two of the longest standing British stockists wouldn't order it season after season if it all went to sale. Much of the sale inventory is in because they have sold so well and ask Cabourn for extra items from cancelled orders or overstock. I constantly watch what's being sold from their respective web sites and some pieces and sizes go immediately and new pieces added.

    Trunk clothiers who had the AW12 collection in for the first time did very well with just a few pieces left in the sale and their main inventory was sold before they even had an internet site up and running so it was just their customers coming into the shop or ringing up on the off chance.

    There is a mood among other Nigel Cabourn stockists or past stockists (I wont name them) that 'the casual set' who just buy the brand for show to wear on the terraces are struggling to afford the high prices and are likely moving else wear or only buying in the sales .Those particular stockists that attract that market have struggled with it.

    Continental Europe and Japan of course are the main markets. Having been to Germany, there is definately more of desire to invest in quality, small production run, English made heritage clothing. Hence Manufactum having their own Authentic line and women's wear. just check out www.manufactum.de and search 'Nigel Cabourn'.

    Many of the Nigel Cabourn shops in continental Europe don't have e commerce sites and sell only from their shops and they order season after season. Kentaurus is a case in point they sell out and very rarely discount.

    From SS10 when I first discovered Nigel Cabourn, I have bought approximately half of my Cabourn items at full price so I can secure the main pieces at my size (often just one has been ordered outside of Japan) and the other half through sales.

    A flagship London Mayfair, Knightsbridge or Clerkenwell Nigel Cabourn store would make sense particularly in time for the AW13 collection as I expect the Cerutti cashmere items to be seriously exclusive and high priced plus it would be a good outlet for the Women's wear.
     
  14. bennit3b

    bennit3b Member

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    Always great designs/collections from Nigel, also met him a couple of times and is a lovely guy
     
  15. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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    I am still enthusing about the quality of the production on the SS13 camo waistcoat. For those that can compare it to similar pieces from previous seasons here are a few close ups of the stitching details.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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    Here is a veritable vestibule of vests

    A collection of Spring Summer weight waistcoats[​IMG]
     
  17. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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    In terms of quality of production - the worst offender was the light blue linen waistcoat from SS11 - nearly every button hole thread was loose and unfinished and they were pulling out.

    It was the same on the matching work pocket jacket

    I had to re-stitch and finish off every one - it kept me busy and out of mischief on a wet summers night !

    Although I was annoyed at the time, having put some effort into it, I sort of have a closer relationship with the garment having nursed it back to health.

    All clothes have souls
     
  18. NickJohannessen

    NickJohannessen Senior member

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    Nice collection! I have 3 of those, plus 2 Harris Tweed variants.
     
  19. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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    Fantastic - what are your thoughts on the SS13 pieces coming through and the Japanese jersey Mallorys at Superdenim?
     
  20. Eric Gill Sans

    Eric Gill Sans Senior member

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    Endclothing have announced they are going live with SS13 in the next 24 hours

    Great little blog preamble to the collection on their website - I like passion & enthusiasm
     

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