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Nice suit for large guys who are too small for "Big and Tall"?

TTUGuy

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I'm looking for suggestions designers or places to shop for suits for people with naturally large frames (48R-54R) and pants that fit large thighs without binding up or riding up to your knees every time you sit down. Preferably looking for companies that offer regular suit lines in larger sizes.

A lot of suit lines top out around 46-48 jackets and 40-42 pants, and even if you find them in larger sizes they're not cut right for people with naturally large frames. It's really annoying and a little embarrassing to go into a shop, put on the biggest jacket they have and look like Thomas R Calahan III wearing a Richard Hayden's coat, then have to scurry away while the sales associate mutters stuff about alterations and special orders.

Then you go down to the big and tall store and try on a suit that makes you look like the Man with no Name wearing his famous poncho. You scurry away again, this time feeling weird about being "too short" and "too skinny" for the first time in your life.

For me specifically I need a 50R jacket with 44-46 pants with roomy legs. I'm barrel chested and large shouldered, but definitely thick around the middle too, 5'11" 260-280 lbs. Hopefully everybody is too classy for this, but if your suggestion is to lose weight, and I definitely could stand to lose some, I will say I wore a 50R when I was 80 lbs lighter and still had problems finding suits that looked right (16 inch drop with muscular thighs is definitely not off the rack compatible).

Thanks ahead of time for any suggestions!
 

orange fury

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Saw the thread yesterday.

I think @orange fury is in texas, he might be able to help you.

@TTUGuy i wish I could help, but I’m honestly not sure- I’m 5’11” but 160 here, so I wouldn’t be a huge help on the specific sizes you’re looking for. I would second the Brooks suggestion (one of the looser fits, then tailor down from there), but if you were really a 16” drop at one point (50 chest/34 waist?), I’d say you’d be more of a candidate for made to measure at the minimum.

The other question I would have would be do you plan on losing weight? I don’t mean that to be crass or rude- you mentioned you “could definitely stand to lose some” and at one point were 80 lbs lighter. The reason I ask is because it doesn’t sound like from your post that you need a suit for a specific event- it might be wise to hold off on any major/expensive purchases until you hit whatever your goal is, if that’s what you’re doing.

I realize that doesn’t answer your initial question, but just some thoughts I had
 

classicalthunde

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In a similar boat, and I feel your retail pain...5'8", 225lbs, barrel chested build. OTR, I've found Brooks Brothers and J. Press to be the most accommodating, their trad style sack suiting is a bit roomier for comfort but does lack a modern look.

SuitSupply Custom Made lets you customize, mix and match size, goes up to a size 54 jacket, and has free returns on a custom item (pretty much unheard of), includes in house tailoring, overall they're known for a quality product. I've done it twice before to pretty decedent results. They have a pretty good sizing measurement breakdown on the OTR listings that you can compare to see where you'd line up, their stuff tends to run small but is a good mix of a modern look and some perennial classics. SuitSupply Custom cost comes at a comparable cost to BB or J.Pre

More recently, I'm taken the approach of getting a few high quality MTM suits. I'm of the opinion these days that it is better to have 2-3 versatile suits with a great fit than having 4-5 with just an 'okay' fit. This of course will be dependent on your budget, location, and how often you need to wear a suit...if you let me know your general vicinity I might be able to make a recommendation...
 
Last edited:

TTUGuy

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@orange fury
if you were really a 16” drop at one point (50 chest/34 waist?), I’d say you’d be more of a candidate for made to measure at the minimum.

Yes that's what I wore 20 years and 80lbs ago, now it's more in the 44-46 range. I gain and lose weight almost exclusively in my stomach.

The other question I would have would be do you plan on losing weight? The reason I ask is because it doesn’t sound like from your post that you need a suit for a specific event- it might be wise to hold off on any major/expensive purchases until you hit whatever your goal is, if that’s what you’re doing.

Yeah I'd like to lose some weight, but it's probably never going to be 80 lbs worth, my weight has yo-yo'd in the 240-280 range for the last 15 years, I'm at the top end now. And my old suit got destroyed so I need something soonish, I do wear one at work occasional, its not urgent I can make due with my sports jacket, but not that long.
 

TTUGuy

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OTR, I've found Brooks Brothers and J. Press to be the most accommodating, their trad style sack suiting is a bit roomier for comfort but does lack a modern look.

SuitSupply Custom Made lets you customize, mix and match size, goes up to a size 54 jacket, and has free returns on a custom item (pretty much unheard of), includes in house tailoring, overall they're known for a quality product. This of course will be dependent on your budget, location, and how often you need to wear a suit...if you let me know your general vicinity I might be able to make a recommendation...

Thanks for the suggestions! Budget $1000 max probably, I wear a suit maybe every other month, but I'd like to start wearing more. I live in Dallas, TX.
 

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