AvariceBespoke
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Here are my impressionistic impressions of both:
For my first commission from each (many years ago in both cases), I did not specify any changes to their house style, I just let them do what they do.
The fit in both cases was perfect. Logsdail made a very "Savile Row" coat: straight shouldered, clean chest, nipped waist, trim hip. Raphael's sholder was padded, but more sloped, chest also clean, and hip trim. Overall, Raphael's coat was a bit leaner. The big differences were that Raphael's front canvas is super soft, Len's is quite a bit more substantial; and Raphael's silhouette is overall more rounded, whereas Len's is a bit straighter (if you wanted to insult him you might say "boxy").
Subsequently, they each made me coats into the styling of which I had more input. Raphael added some drape, which rounded out the silhouette a bit more, while keeping the waist and skirt the same. He raised the button point and gorge and collar, widened the lapels, and -- crucially -- toned down the shoulders. If I had to classify these, I would call them "Italianate" or something -- some combination of English and Italian, or the A&S style as reinterpreted by someone with Italian flair. They are not so full as A&S -- quite a bit slimmer, actually -- but just as soft, if not softer. In fact, the only coat I have felt with comparable softness is a Rubinacci (and, no, I have not groped Mafoo, just hugged him).
Len agreed to make me a padless coat, and this he did. Totally no padding at all. Raphael has not done that, though the padding he does for me is quite slim and unobtrusive. Len also modified the gorge, notch shape, button stance, and some other things. The coat is not draped, and the canvas is still rather substantial. The silhouette is more rounded than the first coat, but still straighter than Raphael's. The armholes are a hair lower, and there is not enough fullness in back, which makes the coat wear slightly tight. Len says he can easily fix this for the next one, and I believe him, but I have not "been in funds" sufficient to get another one lately. He is expensive.
Another thing is, as flexible as Len is, he really hates 3 roll 2, whereas Raphael quite likes it, as do I. Raphael also does a very nice shirt-sleeve shoulder. I never asked Len about that, it's possible he can do it, but I would bet that even if he can, it is not his favorite style. Then again, he does not like high back brace trousers, but he made them for me and did a great job, so who knows.
Len's vest, I should say, is the best fitting vest that I have. I have some very good vests, but they all have the same problem: they don't quite hug the lower back, and the bottom of the back rides up inside the back strap. Len's vest hugs the lower back perfectly. I am not sure how he did it, or why others have not.
I recently had lunch with a very devoted Logsdail customer and got to see Len's "pure" cut. Strong, roped shoulder. Clean, hard chest. (I could tell it was hard because it really did not ripple as they guy moved.) nipped waist and slightly flared skirt. Fit perfectly. Was very obviously "bespoke" from a distance, both in how presicely it fit and in how totally different it looked from any RTW suit you could imagine.
I realize that this post is going to cause one or two aneurisms on the FNB forum. If funeral announcements are posted, please let me know as I might make a small donation to the widow(s).
Great post. Did you discuss the Laffer curve over lunch & other pro growth supply side policies?