logsdail or raphael?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AvariceBespoke, Jan 10, 2007.

  1. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    What, am I one of them???

    Stop. you and mantonian are so silly, although if you become avarice's consultant I can't guarantee anything. Word could get back to Naples.
     
  2. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    I have little if any input as to the styling. Yachtie is the designer.

    There is a small difference in body proportions here.

    AB is a 42 or 44 chest with a 31" waist.

    Y is a 48 chest with a 1" drop


    What does that mean? what are you implying
     
  3. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    What does that mean? what are you implying
    It means Tom Ford is your man.
     
  4. aragon765

    aragon765 Senior member

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    What does that mean? what are you implying

    Where did that "head explode picture go??

    oh wait, here it is:

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Here are my impressionistic impressions of both:

    For my first commission from each (many years ago in both cases), I did not specify any changes to their house style, I just let them do what they do.

    The fit in both cases was perfect. Logsdail made a very "Savile Row" coat: straight shouldered, clean chest, nipped waist, trim hip. Raphael's sholder was padded, but more sloped, chest also clean, and hip trim. Overall, Raphael's coat was a bit leaner. The big differences were that Raphael's front canvas is super soft, Len's is quite a bit more substantial; and Raphael's silhouette is overall more rounded, whereas Len's is a bit straighter (if you wanted to insult him you might say "boxy").

    Subsequently, they each made me coats into the styling of which I had more input. Raphael added some drape, which rounded out the silhouette a bit more, while keeping the waist and skirt the same. He raised the button point and gorge and collar, widened the lapels, and -- crucially -- toned down the shoulders. If I had to classify these, I would call them "Italianate" or something -- some combination of English and Italian, or the A&S style as reinterpreted by someone with Italian flair. They are not so full as A&S -- quite a bit slimmer, actually -- but just as soft, if not softer. In fact, the only coat I have felt with comparable softness is a Rubinacci (and, no, I have not groped Mafoo, just hugged him).

    Len agreed to make me a padless coat, and this he did. Totally no padding at all. Raphael has not done that, though the padding he does for me is quite slim and unobtrusive. Len also modified the gorge, notch shape, button stance, and some other things. The coat is not draped, and the canvas is still rather substantial. The silhouette is more rounded than the first coat, but still straighter than Raphael's. The armholes are a hair lower, and there is not enough fullness in back, which makes the coat wear slightly tight. Len says he can easily fix this for the next one, and I believe him, but I have not "been in funds" sufficient to get another one lately. He is expensive.

    Another thing is, as flexible as Len is, he really hates 3 roll 2, whereas Raphael quite likes it, as do I. Raphael also does a very nice shirt-sleeve shoulder. I never asked Len about that, it's possible he can do it, but I would bet that even if he can, it is not his favorite style. Then again, he does not like high back brace trousers, but he made them for me and did a great job, so who knows.

    Len's vest, I should say, is the best fitting vest that I have. I have some very good vests, but they all have the same problem: they don't quite hug the lower back, and the bottom of the back rides up inside the back strap. Len's vest hugs the lower back perfectly. I am not sure how he did it, or why others have not.

    I recently had lunch with a very devoted Logsdail customer and got to see Len's "pure" cut. Strong, roped shoulder. Clean, hard chest. (I could tell it was hard because it really did not ripple as they guy moved.) nipped waist and slightly flared skirt. Fit perfectly. Was very obviously "bespoke" from a distance, both in how presicely it fit and in how totally different it looked from any RTW suit you could imagine.

    I realize that this post is going to cause one or two aneurisms on the FNB forum. If funeral announcements are posted, please let me know as I might make a small donation to the widow(s).
     
  6. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    It means Tom Ford is your man.

    No you're my man. [​IMG]
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What does that mean? what are you implying

    Drop is the difference between your chest and waist measure. 6" is the norm in RTW.

    40" jacket has a 34 waist trouser, thus a 6" drop.

    Y has a 48" chest and a 47" coat waist, 1" drop. You have at least an 8 to 10" difference between your chest and waist. I am noting that his fit and look wold be dissimilar to yours.
     
  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    you are the eggman, I am the walrus

    Would that make Yachtie one of your eggmen, or is he the fishwife?

    Your belt thread sealed the deal on that one.

    Nah. Now everyone just asks me if I still need a belt.
     
  9. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Drop is the difference between your chest and waist measure. 6" is the norm in RTW.

    40" jacket has a 34 waist trouser, thus a 6" drop.

    Y has a 48" chest and a 47" coat waist, 1" drop. You have at least an 8 to 10" difference between your chest and waist. I am noting that his fit and look wold be dissimilar to yours.

    FWIW, you make Yachtie look much skinnier than that. Now get to work on him, and have him order normal lapels.
     
  10. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Nah. Now everyone just asks me if I still need a belt.


    Need a belt?
     
  11. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    FWIW, you make Yachtie look much skinnier than that.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  12. vitaminc

    vitaminc Senior member

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    Come on now. You expect to resurrect a year-old thread that was absurd in the first place after the monstrosities you've created these last couple weeks and get serious answers?

    No, this is much more fun.

    EDIT: Yachtie, you are a kind and generous soul.


    ya lets shit all over this thread!!!
     
  13. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Now get to work on him, and have him order normal lapels.

    ?!? What're those? I actually got a good approximation of notches on the latest one.
     
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    FWIW, you make Yachtie look much skinnier than that. Now get to work on him, and have him order normal lapels.

    Agreed. On both counts. I don't care who came up with them, the lapels are playing with my mind.

    Need a belt?

    Actually, yes. I'm building quite the collection of J. Press ribbon belts. You can send me one for Christmas if you feel so inclined.
     
  15. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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