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logsdail or raphael?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AvariceBespoke, Jan 10, 2007.

  1. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    Here are my impressionistic impressions of both:

    For my first commission from each (many years ago in both cases), I did not specify any changes to their house style, I just let them do what they do.

    The fit in both cases was perfect. Logsdail made a very "Savile Row" coat: straight shouldered, clean chest, nipped waist, trim hip. Raphael's sholder was padded, but more sloped, chest also clean, and hip trim. Overall, Raphael's coat was a bit leaner. The big differences were that Raphael's front canvas is super soft, Len's is quite a bit more substantial; and Raphael's silhouette is overall more rounded, whereas Len's is a bit straighter (if you wanted to insult him you might say "boxy").

    Subsequently, they each made me coats into the styling of which I had more input. Raphael added some drape, which rounded out the silhouette a bit more, while keeping the waist and skirt the same. He raised the button point and gorge and collar, widened the lapels, and -- crucially -- toned down the shoulders. If I had to classify these, I would call them "Italianate" or something -- some combination of English and Italian, or the A&S style as reinterpreted by someone with Italian flair. They are not so full as A&S -- quite a bit slimmer, actually -- but just as soft, if not softer. In fact, the only coat I have felt with comparable softness is a Rubinacci (and, no, I have not groped Mafoo, just hugged him).

    Len agreed to make me a padless coat, and this he did. Totally no padding at all. Raphael has not done that, though the padding he does for me is quite slim and unobtrusive. Len also modified the gorge, notch shape, button stance, and some other things. The coat is not draped, and the canvas is still rather substantial. The silhouette is more rounded than the first coat, but still straighter than Raphael's. The armholes are a hair lower, and there is not enough fullness in back, which makes the coat wear slightly tight. Len says he can easily fix this for the next one, and I believe him, but I have not "been in funds" sufficient to get another one lately. He is expensive.

    Another thing is, as flexible as Len is, he really hates 3 roll 2, whereas Raphael quite likes it, as do I. Raphael also does a very nice shirt-sleeve shoulder. I never asked Len about that, it's possible he can do it, but I would bet that even if he can, it is not his favorite style. Then again, he does not like high back brace trousers, but he made them for me and did a great job, so who knows.

    Len's vest, I should say, is the best fitting vest that I have. I have some very good vests, but they all have the same problem: they don't quite hug the lower back, and the bottom of the back rides up inside the back strap. Len's vest hugs the lower back perfectly. I am not sure how he did it, or why others have not.

    I recently had lunch with a very devoted Logsdail customer and got to see Len's "pure" cut. Strong, roped shoulder. Clean, hard chest. (I could tell it was hard because it really did not ripple as they guy moved.) nipped waist and slightly flared skirt. Fit perfectly. Was very obviously "bespoke" from a distance, both in how presicely it fit and in how totally different it looked from any RTW suit you could imagine.

    I realize that this post is going to cause one or two aneurisms on the FNB forum. If funeral announcements are posted, please let me know as I might make a small donation to the widow(s).



    Great post. Did you discuss the Laffer curve over lunch & other pro growth supply side policies?
     


  2. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    The wild and the pure.
    Actually, yes. I'm building quite the collection of J. Press ribbon belts. You can send me one for Christmas if you feel so inclined.

    Are they all the same color?
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    B

    When you are at the Tom Ford store would you ask what Tom Ford likes on his pizza?

    I would really appreciate that.

    Chris
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Are they all the same color?

    No, smartass. They're all different, but in precisely the same way, with blue as the common color and the other colors never repeated between belts. See? I'm perfectly capable of breaking loose every now and then.
     


  5. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    Drop is the difference between your chest and waist measure. 6" is the norm in RTW.

    40" jacket has a 34 waist trouser, thus a 6" drop.

    Y has a 48" chest and a 47" coat waist, 1" drop. You have at least an 8 to 10" difference between your chest and waist. I am noting that his fit and look wold be dissimilar to yours.


    I thought that was what you were suggesting but that clarifies it. I really like that first coat in the photos - the shoulders, the lapels are awesome, and the fit is nice.

    That would be a nice suit w/ a nice navy solid or chalkstripe
     


  6. RJmanbearpig

    RJmanbearpig Senior member

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    AB

    When you are at the Tom Ford store would you ask what Tom Ford likes on his pizza?

    I would really appreciate that.

    Chris

    Rogaine and pepperoni.
     


  7. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    AB

    When you are at the Tom Ford store would you ask what Tom Ford likes on his pizza?

    I would really appreciate that.

    Chris


    ok
     


  8. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    No, smartass. They're all different, but in precisely the same way, with blue as the common color and the other colors never repeated between belts. See? I'm perfectly capable of breaking loose every now and then.

    There's medication for this. [​IMG]
     


  9. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    AB

    When you are at the Tom Ford store would you ask what Tom Ford likes on his pizza?

    I would really appreciate that.

    Chris



    Chris,

    What are starting prices for 2 & 3 piece suits?
     


  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Are they all the same color?

    They're striped grosgrain, but each stripe is the same color. This makes it seem that the ribbon is one solid color, both from a distance and up close.



    - B
     


  11. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Chris,

    What are starting prices for 2 & 3 piece suits?


    If you have to ask, better to stick with Tom Ford.
     


  12. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    This will be my only serious answer to any of your threads, not that you care.

    Do yourself and your wallet a big favor...... Do not buy anything right now period. ....


    +1, seeing his confusion has made me think that I should do more research before getting a bespoke suit...he should just try to get his $ back from TF and go buy some shoes, or pornography or something
     


  13. sartort

    sartort Senior member

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    nvm
     


  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I will right after I get my money back and have my horse take a dump in front of the store.

    Wait...you have a horse?

    Well, that changes everything. I'm going back and editing all my prior posts in this thread.


    - B
     


  15. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Wait...you have a horse?

    Well, that changes everything. I'm going back and editing all my prior posts in this thread.


    - B


    That's okay, I'll do it for you.
     


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